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Old 11-06-2012, 06:26 PM   #16
Turtlemaxxx
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I have built all my stands. I model them up in SolidWorks and give myself prints and cut sheets and do everything to make it as simple as possible... Then I rush and mess something up. Go slow. 2x4's are cheap. If you cut it 3 times and its still too short, its time for another drink. My wife doesn't know it yet, but I'm getting close to a rack of my own in the basement
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:16 PM   #17
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I have built all my stands. I model them up in SolidWorks and give myself prints and cut sheets and do everything to make it as simple as possible... Then I rush and mess something up. Go slow. 2x4's are cheap. If you cut it 3 times and its still too short, its time for another drink. My wife doesn't know it yet, but I'm getting close to a rack of my own in the basement
Not down here they're not. At least not the untreated ones. One of the reasons I used 2 x 3 wherever I could.
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:05 PM   #18
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I build a lot of stuff with wood. Rarely do I ever use a tape measure. I have found that the surest way to make a mistake is to use one.
Lol.
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:53 PM   #19
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Lol.
You don't realize how true the statement is. And I wasn't kidding. I rarely use a tape measure for fine wood working or cabinet making. What I use is tried and true. And it's a technique used for hundreds of years and is far more accurate than any measurement with a tape or ruler.
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Old 11-07-2012, 07:01 PM   #20
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You don't realize how true the statement is. And I wasn't kidding. I rarely use a tape measure for fine wood working or cabinet making. What I use is tried and true. And it's a technique used for hundreds of years and is far more accurate than any measurement with a tape or ruler.
Ok. You have to share your method now.
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Old 11-09-2012, 03:47 PM   #21
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I'd also like to know how this works!
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:37 AM   #22
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I use story sticks. I built a library system floor to ceiling, wall to wall and only used a tape for rough measurements.
It's really simple. To get the measurements for the outlets and the window along the wall I took two pieces of wood (sticks really) that when pushed against the wall overlapped in the middle. In this case I put a screw through them but mostly just use a spring clamp to hold them together. Anyhow it's jammed between the walls. I draw a line as a reference so I can line it up in the shop later. Then I mark every obstruction along the wall on the sticks and label them. Turn the sticks 90 degrees and put it from ceiling to floor and add the reference mark. Mark the heights of every obstruction that needs accounting for. No need to remember measurements you've got it all.
Now when I build the cabinets I mark everything onto the story sticks again. The width of the face frame. How deep the rabbet is for the shelf in the side panels. How much of a reveal I want on the inside of the frame to the inside of the cabinet. The dado and reveals are measured using a set of brass bars. 1/8, 1/4, 3/16, 1/2.
For the width of the face frame wood itself I just look at it and decide what is pleasing to my eye then cut one as a sample. That sample is saved and used to reset the saw anytime I need a face frame cut. The front of the shelves have a front frame also that is a little narrower than the face frame itself. Again another sample.
The story sick has everything on it you need to build the project and is a true 2 d representation. After I built all the cabinets I laid them out in the shop. It matched perfectly. When I installed them it fit like a glove.

BTW I use those same brass bars for tool setup. Consistency is key. You can't get that with a flexible tape measure.

For the height of the shelf I used what i was going to put on them as a measure. Brought a stick to them and marked it. Whether it was my collection of AFI magazines or my cheap stereo.

There are very few fasteners in the system. Most are to build the face frame and to install it to the carcass. All the cabinets are held together with good, tight joinery and good wood glue. And I know for a fact it will withstand falling over. Stupid stupid error on my part. Had the lowers and uppers all setup in the garage. And forgot about it. Right up until the point the garage door opened.

One other thing. The side of the cabinet that shows actually has an inside and outside to it separated by scraps of plywood to give it thickness. That is the main thing that set the reveal on the inside. It was all accounted for on the story sticks. Those sticks are my bible for building this and with those I can build it again to the same exact measurements. And it will fit exactly the same every time.
Also with the sticks the top rail of every cabinet lines up perfectly. And there was never a doubt since it was all done with the same stick.
A sample:
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Recedite, plebes! Gero rem imperialem.
Quote me as saying I was misquoted.
Once you get rid of integrity the rest is a piece of cake.
Here's to our wives and sweethearts - may they never meet.
If you agreed with me we'd both be right.

Last edited by GraphicGr8s; 11-10-2012 at 10:27 PM.. Reason: sp
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:46 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GraphicGr8s View Post
I use story sticks. I built a library system floor to ceiling, wall to wall and only used a tape for rough measurements.
It's really simple. To get the measurements for the outlets and the window along the wall I took two pieces of wood (sticks really) that when pushed against the wall overlapped in the middle. In this case I put a screw through them but mostly just use a spring clamp to hold them together. Anyhow it's jammed between the walls. I draw a line as a reference so I can line it up in the shop later. Then I mark every obstruction along the wall on the sticks and label them. Turn the sticks 90 degrees and put it from ceiling to floor and add the reference mark. Mark the heights of every obstruction that needs accounting for. No need to remember measurements you've got it all.
Now when I build the cabinets I mark everything onto the story sticks again. The width of the face frame. How deep the rabbet is for the shelf in the side panels. How much of a reveal I want on the inside of the frame to the inside of the cabinet. The dado and reveals are measured using a set of brass bars. 1/8, 1/4, 3/16, 1/2.
For the width of the face frame wood itself I just look at it and decide what is pleasing to my eye then cut one as a sample. That sample is saved and used to reset the saw anytime I need a face frame cut. The front of the shelves have a front frame also that is a little narrower than the face frame itself. Again another sample.
The story sick has everything on it you need to build the project and is a true 2 d representation. After I built all the cabinets I laid them out in the shop. It matched perfectly. When I installed them it fit like a glove.

BTW I use those same brass bars for tool setup. Consistency is key. You can't get that with a flexible tape measure.

For the height of the shelf I used what i was going to put on them as a measure. Brought a stick to them and marked it. Whether it was my collection of AFI magazines or my cheap stereo.

There are very few fasteners in the system. Most are to build the face frame and to install it to the carcass. All the cabinets are held together with good, tight joinery and good wood glue. And I know for a fact it will withstand falling over. Stupid stupid error on my part. Had the lowers and uppers all setup in the garage. And forgot about it. Right up until the point the garage door opened.

One other thing. The side of the cabinet that shows actually has an inside and outside to it separated by scraps of plywood to give it thickness. That is the main thing that set the reveal on the inside. It was all accounted for on the story sticks. Those sticks are my bible for building this and with those I can build it again to the same exact measurements. And it will fir exactly the same every time.
Also with the sticks the top rail of every cabinet lines up perfectly. And there was never a doubt since it was all done with the same stick.
A sample:
That is a lot simpler to do than to type. I have done that a few times myself. Works great.
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Old 11-12-2012, 12:09 AM   #24
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That is a lot simpler to do than to type. I have done that a few times myself. Works great.
Yuup

and Yupp
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Old 11-12-2012, 02:58 AM   #25
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looks good so far hope it all comes together
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:10 PM   #26
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Wow I missed this, how have you been cable
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:53 PM   #27
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looks good so far hope it all comes together
Thank you. I hope so tool.

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Wow I missed this, how have you been cable
Not too bad. Just working a lot. And trying to get over this sick crap I have. You?
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Cable's Madness
Fish tanks are like cups of coffee, one is never enough.
"What the smeggin smeg's he smeggin' done now?!" - Lister
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