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Old 10-20-2012, 08:28 AM   #1
Msheresy
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Floating plants


Are there any that can coexist with an hob and still look attractive?


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Old 10-20-2012, 08:42 AM   #2
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That would depend on a couple things...How strong is your HOB? I have some Frogbit in a tank with a HOB rated for 15 gallons, and it doesn't push it under. However if I were to put it in the tank with the AC110, I don't think that would go over too well...
It also would depend on how high your water level is. I like to keep my water level high enough that it touches the bottom of the HOB output. But if your water level is a couple inches lower, the "waterfall" will push plants underwater.

I know that some people create some kind of 'barrier' so that the plants can't get over to the HOB. I read about someone floating a strip of airline tubing and attaching it to the sides of the tank somehow. Suction cups, I think? That might be something to look into.
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:56 AM   #3
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^ I asked about this a couple days ago and was directed to a DIY thread. I took two small suction cups, a length of airline tubing, and some silicone.

I attached the airline tubing onto the suction cups and let it set. Afterwards I attached it on opposite walls of my tank and it's kept even the smallest of my Frogbit/DWL from going anywhere!
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Old 10-20-2012, 11:23 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVN View Post
^ I asked about this a couple days ago and was directed to a DIY thread. I took two small suction cups, a length of airline tubing, and some silicone.

I attached the airline tubing onto the suction cups and let it set. Afterwards I attached it on opposite walls of my tank and it's kept even the smallest of my Frogbit/DWL from going anywhere!
What about when your water level drops from evaporation? Or are you one of those people that constantly has their tank topped off? lol
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Old 10-20-2012, 11:57 AM   #5
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Default Floating plants

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Originally Posted by Msheresy View Post
Are there any that can coexist with an hob and still look attractive?


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Hello Ms...

I float mainly Anacharis and Pennywort in my tanks. I also float larger pieces of driftwood and attach Java fern, Banana lily and Water wisteria to the wood with black sewing thread. Just about any plant that can grow without having to be planted in the substrate will grow well floated if you get it near the light source.

If you change a large volume of tank water weekly, you don't need extremely strong filtration. The filters are simply filtering water that's already pure. This way you can keep floating plants and smaller HOBs and the plants don't get pushed all around the tank surface and your fish and plants still have the benefit of stable water conditions.

Just a couple of thoughts.

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Old 10-20-2012, 01:31 PM   #6
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i have a hob rated up to 40 gallon tanks running on a ten gallon with water lettuce doing very well, duckweed doesn't like that but every once in a while some will start to make it...
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Old 10-20-2012, 01:44 PM   #7
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This may or may not be true. It depends upon the tank, the livestock, the filtration being used, whether or not ferts are dosed, how often a tank is fed, what kind of water a person is using, et al.

Changing a large amount of water on a regular basis without a reason to do so can potentially harm your aquarium and the critters living inside for a number of reasons.

To the OP: A simple trick is to use airline as mentioned above. Or use a piece of fishing line to section things off on the surface of your water. That way the floating plants aren't bothered by the surface agitation the HOB creates.

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If you change a large volume of tank water weekly, you don't need extremely strong filtration. The filters are simply filtering water that's already pure. This way you can keep floating plants and smaller HOBs and the plants don't get pushed all around the tank surface and your fish and plants still have the benefit of stable water conditions.
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:58 AM   #8
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Thanks to all for the suggestions!


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Old 10-22-2012, 07:39 AM   #9
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In general plants that float need some place to stop moving. When the water pushes them into corners or starts jamming them together this gives them the stability they need. One way to get them started is to make a ring of air tubing and connect it to the side of the tank with a suction cup. A ring as small as 3-4" is a good start for the smaller plants.

Some plants are better at holding a position when they are anchored in simple ways, and can therefore stand up to more water movement.

Water Lettuce, grown as the upward growing habit that is common in higher light open top tanks and ponds will handle quite a bit of water movement once it has found a stable spot. It will send out short runners and grow new plants around the original one, and the secure original plant will provide stability for the new plants. Example: 5' x 16" tank with 2 Fluval 404 canisters. Water Lettuce got pushed under the rim (acrylic tank) until it sent out runners, and the baby plants on the runners got so strong they grew right up to the outlets of the filters.

Water Hyacinth will grow in a similar manner to Water Lettuce. Let even one plant get a good hold and the runners will spread even into some pretty strong water movement. My neighbor has some in a stock watering trough that keep taking over. He has it set up with a pretty strong pump at one end, and the WH fill the trough very quickly from a secure place at the quieter end.

Azolla meshes together, and looks sort of like overlapping scales, or roofing. But it does not like water movement. It grows in the wild among cat tails and similar growth that greatly reduces the water movement. Once it has grown in good and dense the water can start moving faster, and the dense growth habit will hold it together and it does fine. In general, I would not call it great for a fast moving surface.

Duckweed does not seem to form any sort of secure attachment and in a tank with too much surface movement it may hover in the calmest corners, but does not thrive. A ring of air tubing can help, even if this ring drifts around the tank. This ring could be anchored with a suction cup in a manner similar to described above.

Frogbit can handle quite a bit of water movement, for example Aquaclear 110 filter on a 4' x 18" tank with a Koralia #4 under the water. The frogbit started doing pretty well where it grew just tall enough (yes, above the water surface) to stick up at the back of the tank. The frogbit grew between the glass lid and the tank. Then it sent out runners from that secure position, and it sent roots down to the substrate. The roots are not doing anything to hold it in place. I separated it to share with some friends, and only the runners overlapping and meshing together provide the stabilizing base from which they grow.

Red Rooted Floater: I just got more of this today, for a higher light situation. In the past RRF did not really do well in my lower light tanks, behaved about like duckweed, with no connections, just drifting around... and around...

Riccia does not seem to do well floating with water movement. It grew really well on the water fall part of the HOB filter. When I took that tank down to move it I placed the Riccia in the water, and kept the duckweed in the tank, too. I think the Riccia needs time to find each other and to anchor together. It will grow into a raft, but it will do this a lot faster inside a ring as described for duckweed.
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:21 AM   #10
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Salvinia acts like red root floater in that it doesn't liked to be tumbles and disturbed. Does much better in calmer water. It relies on budding bee leaves to create stability and has no root anchors found in either frog bit or water lettuce.
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