need some help finding parts for a mutiple co2 setup
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Old 10-19-2012, 02:29 AM   #1
Bryanmc1988
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need some help finding parts for a mutiple co2 setup


well i'm trying to see if i can get some help i cant seem to find out what its called... but here is what i am trying to do i hope i can get some advice...

this block is a 1/4 end port and 4 1/8 port on top.... i'm planning on getting this and hook it up to my regulator to run multiple co2 for my tanks... my main problem is i will be using the Parker H3L meter valve and cause the 1/8 ports are so close together... i was planning on buying a 1/8 quick connector if there's even one to connect the meter valve to this block =.= if there is a link would help a lot... also would the quick connect be stable enough to hold the meter up and a bubble counter with out turning left or right... also is there another way to connect all 4 of the meter valve to this as it doesnt seem to have room to even turn the meter around in a circle to connect them all on.... i have 4 meter btw... any one have a clue to how i might get these meter connected to this block?





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Old 10-19-2012, 02:57 AM   #2
kevmo911
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Well, you could either do quick-connects, compression fittings, or barbs, to tubing, and then to the four valves. Or tubing to two of them, and the valves to the other two.

Or you could add extensions and elbows, any which way (up/down/up/down, for example).

Or you could plug up the two middle ports and add tees to the first and fourth port, and run two valves from each tee. This might be the prettiest - or, at least, least ugly - and yet still fairly compact.


But you're going to want a solenoid before the mainfold. No timer to four tanks is a huge waste.
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:02 AM   #3
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i have some nipple connectors but i dont think that will work as if i turn one way the other will losen up or via versa... but is there any links to how each one looks like? so i can get a better idea of what they are...?
also i wanted all 4 bubble counter in a line and the meter behide it.... so it will look like this...

|===Regulator===|C.......<---Back
|==Mainfold Block=|O
.....|....|....|...|......2
|==Meter Valve==|.........<---Middle
.....|....|....|...|....T
|=Bubble Counter=|.A.......<---Front view
.............................N
...............................K


p.s. there is a solenoid before the mainfold.... and it will be on a timer... all tanks will have co2 running 30mins before lights come on...
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:13 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryanmc1988 View Post
i have some nipple connectors but i dont think that will work as if i turn one way the other will losen up or via versa...
Doesn't work that way. Tighten one and everything with right-handed threads behind it will be torquing in the correct direction. And if you can buy it in the plumbing section of a hardware store, it has right-handed threads.

I'd go with two tees.

But f you wanted to do up/down/up/down, I'd go nipple/street elbow on the first and third port, and 1" nipple/street elbow on the second and fourth ports, as you'll need some height clearance to turn the elbows.

So, if you follow my advice, that's four street elbows, two nipples, and two long nipples. But, either way, you'll figure it out
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:19 AM   #5
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Okay, I just saw the more thorough explanation. I think I get what you're saying about how you want it set up, and my suggestions won't work that way. Honestly, you're going to have to figure this one out yourself, I think.

Unfortunately, the manifold you have limits your options - ironically, it means you have to be creative in how you set it up. What you want is a simple, geometrically perfect (as much as is possible) rig. And I don't think that's quite possible with the manifold.
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:27 AM   #6
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lol well thanks for killing my hopes lol but when u said the thread is right hand turn.... thats what i ment unless i am wrong... lol....


lets say the nipple is threaded on both sides which it should be... so if u look at it one way or the other dont you thing it will tight on one side and losen on the other if they both stand still lol... correct me if i'm wrong but from that... its impossible to work with


lets say i do get it on the way i wanted it to... its already a pain to get it on... now its twice the pain to get it off lol



anyways any one else have any ideas on how to get it set up? and kevmo you havnt answer the other questions for the quick connect... will it be stable or will it fall left or right if its to heavy...?
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:37 AM   #7
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Quick-connects for the 1/8" metal? Wow, that would probably be a lot of money for four of those. And I don't know how airtight they'd be. Or how sturdy. I wouldn't suggest that as an option.

As far as nipples ...trying to think of how to describe this is making my head hurt. I can't even tell if we agree or disagree on turn direction.

Best way to do this is go to Home Depot, buy a few 1/8" NPT pipe fittings from the plumbing department, and experiment.
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:46 AM   #8
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I would close up the 2 middle ports. Then just have a tee off of the 2 end ports. You can now run 2 nv's off of the tee. Havibg a regulator with an adjustable working pressure will help with consistent bubble counts. But, with those nv's inconsistent bubble count should not be an issue.
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:54 AM   #9
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the nv are ok but i rather used the h3 ... but i'm dead lock now... time to go to bed my head hurts thinking of ways to make it work... on and the T might work but i dont think they will for my meter valve... as the holes are only... .75" from hole center to center line what ever that means lol here is a link

but lets say we do the T it wont fit the meter alone fit the bubble counter with it... the manifold is small 3.25"L



i got an idea... this should work lol....

drop the manifold... get 3 Tee connecter's.... so hook it up like this....

regulator
T T T ..... 3 Tee valve ea one for ea meter connect one at a time... so connect ea T to a meter first then the T to one another... BINGO.... its just like a manifold =P in a way lol
Meter valve
bubble counter
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Old 10-19-2012, 04:05 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryanmc1988 View Post
the nv are ok but i rather used the h3 ... but i'm dead lock now... time to go to bed my head hurts thinking of ways to make it work... on and the T might work but i dont think they will for my meter valve... as the holes are only... .75" from hole center to center line what ever that means lol here is a link



but lets say we do the T it wont fit the meter alone fit the bubble counter with it... the manifold is small 3.25"L
Just means that the middle of one hole is 0.75" away from the center of the next hole. I don't see why the tee would not work. The manifold will be "pointed" towards the front with port holes on the top. Then have a tee with outputs on both sides of your manifold. Nv and then a elbow to have your bc in the upright position. There will be some misc. pieces in between but it will work.

I'm guessing you already bouht the manifold, but you could just ditch the whole manifold and just use brass fittings using tee's, crosses, nipples, etc that you can find at hd or lowes.
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Old 10-19-2012, 04:07 AM   #11
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If you can't get what you're using to work this is a really great Manifold.

http://www.aquacave.com/2-Outlet-CO2...-P1868C38.aspx
Really easy to set up too.
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Old 10-19-2012, 04:12 AM   #12
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that is a nice manifold and no nokturnalkid i didnt buy the manifold yet... lol and requality i need one with 3 ports and a inport of course so 4 ports total lol but that would be messy as it will be every where... wouldnt it be better to have all 3 meter and bubble in a line? cleaner look....


meter in one line...
bubble counter in another...



also i have a question it looks like the needle valve is a tube thread .... is the bubble counter a tube thread also or just a 1/8 npt thread? from all the needle valve i see like the nv in the link u showed me it looks as if its a tube thread...
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Old 10-19-2012, 11:49 AM   #13
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I was lying in bed and came up with a way to do it with the manifold.

A 1/8" NPT to 1/4" compression fitting would do it. Actually, an even larger compression fitting would be better. Say 3/8". So Swagelok SS-600-1-2, or equivalent. Then you do a tube adapter. SS-6-TA-1-2, or equivalent. Go to swagelok.com and type in those model numbers.

That way, the only thing that has to turn is a single nut. This will be a bit costly, but will allow you to securely fasten all 3 or 4 of those valves to the manifold, and they won't have to turn. I wouldn't suggest this method for several reasons, starting with expense, but it would work, and you'd get the streamlined effect you're looking for.
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Old 10-19-2012, 07:07 PM   #14
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i can get a steam line style with tee fittings... cheaper and much more stable...
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:37 PM   #15
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ok so here is an update of how i turn this confusing subjects to something into bits and piece, more then what i wanted to spend but over all it was well worth the money... take a look at the finish out come....



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