Which power tool brands do you like? - Page 2
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View Poll Results: Which brand(s) do you own and/or prefer?
Dewalt 18 50.00%
Ryobi 4 11.11%
Milwaukee 11 30.56%
Makita 7 19.44%
Black & Decker 3 8.33%
Porter & Cable 4 11.11%
Bosch 11 30.56%
Skil 5 13.89%
Ridgid 6 16.67%
Dremel 11 30.56%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 36. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 10-12-2012, 03:09 AM   #16
Zefrik
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What tools do you currently have and what are you looking for?
I am looking for a drill/driver. I have a corded Dewalt drill and I strip screws all the time. I am also looking into getting a jigsaw and possibly a miter saw.
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:21 AM   #17
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Makita has never let me down. Great power tools
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:54 AM   #18
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I like Milwaukee personally. Dewalt stuff is pretty good too. Dewalt's nice because you can get parts pretty easily when they wear out.
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:55 AM   #19
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this is quality for a jobsite.affordable enough to be used by an occasional crafty person.

-CORDLESS:

-18v drill and impact driver : RYOBI
(they do the same a makita does for 1/4 or less the money, get four batteries and 2 chargers)

Drill is to drill.

Impact driver for screws.
--

Irwin set of boring bits

Quality bits overall are cheaper than cheapo.

18v ryobi laminate trimmer.

- CORDED:

-makita skill saw, easy to work with, hardy but accurate.

- bosch table saw with wheeled stand and or small dewalt table saw for small stuff.

- rigid or porter cable 250hp router

- makita hand plainer

- dewalt, bosch or metabo reciprocating saw

- bosch jig saw.

- rigid vacuum/blower

- dewalt dual speed finish benchtop plainer.

- bosh or dewalt oscillating sander

- hitachi grinder

- Bosch or makita belt sander

- compressor can be a cheapo 11gal from kragen. They work good, noisy and cheap enough to chain to a wall and leave in the jobsite.

-Porter cable nailers.

Hand tools:

Woodworking:

Japanese saws

Irwin chisels

Irwin hand clamps

12 & 16 oz hammers

Japanese nail set

2 Painter flat bars

3" metallic spatula

Nail pullers

Wire cutter

Etc...
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:14 AM   #20
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Hitachi is what most of my stuff is. Ingersoll Rand for the air compressor most of the air tools are cheap kobalts use them break them get new ones lol.
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Old 10-12-2012, 02:11 PM   #21
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I am looking for a drill/driver. I have a corded Dewalt drill and I strip screws all the time. I am also looking into getting a jigsaw and possibly a miter saw.
This is one area cordless is better than corded. The important thing is to get a driver that has a clutch so you don't spin the screws.
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:09 PM   #22
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Most of my garage is ridgid with a dewalt plunge router and Bosch jigsaws. I do a lot of audio cabinetery and my ridgid drills (compact 12v and full size 18v) put all the other major brands to shame IMHO then when you consider the lifetime battery warranty its a no brainer.
I've used everyone's drills except festool and Milwaukee's m12 are my second favorite.

I want to replace my benchtop saw with a ridgid, but the fiancee has demanded a saw stop machine... hope shes gonna contribute to the added cost
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:45 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zefrik View Post
I am looking for a drill/driver. I have a corded Dewalt drill and I strip screws all the time. I am also looking into getting a jigsaw and possibly a miter saw.
Impact driver is for screws, it's designed to not strip the heads and drive them into thick wood. Day night difference.
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Old 10-13-2012, 02:24 AM   #24
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Impact driver is for screws, it's designed to not strip the heads and drive them into thick wood. Day night difference.
Maybe then I could make some 2x4 stands for some of my tanks in my fishroom.
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Old 10-13-2012, 02:27 AM   #25
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Does this look like a good choice?

http://www.reconditionedtools.com/fa...&prefv1=Ridgid
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Old 10-13-2012, 02:38 AM   #26
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this is quality for a jobsite.affordable enough to be used by an occasional crafty person.



- rigid or porter cable 250hp router
i want that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That's 246.75 hp more than my biggest router.

If I were starting over or a newbie now I'd look more at a compact router first instead of a full size. I would be looking at the Dewalt 611 pk because it has a fixed base and plunge. Once you use a plunge you'll wonder how you did it before.

By recip are you talking a sabre saw or a "Sawzall"?

The large "sawzall" is referred to as a recip or reciprocating saw while the small one is correctly a sabre saw although many call it a jigsaw.
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Last edited by GraphicGr8s; 10-13-2012 at 02:55 AM.. Reason: p
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Old 10-13-2012, 02:40 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zefrik View Post
I don't know the answer to this, so it's an honest question. This is a copied statement from the first section of the warranty information, for persons who are considering purchasing refurbished power tools:

What Is Not Covered
This warranty applies only to the original purchaser at retail and may not be transferred.

Does this apply to you or not?

And, even if it does, do you really want an item that s**t the bed before you even got your hands on it?


One other thing - I've heard, and read, that the power tools manufactured specifically for sale at Home Depot and Lowes, and other chain stores, are made from substandard materials. I don't know this to be fact, but if anybody else can shed light on the subject, I'd appreciate it. My wallet thanks you in advance.
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Old 10-13-2012, 03:09 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevmo911 View Post
I don't know the answer to this, so it's an honest question. This is a copied statement from the first section of the warranty information, for persons who are considering purchasing refurbished power tools:

What Is Not Covered
This warranty applies only to the original purchaser at retail and may not be transferred.

Does this apply to you or not?

And, even if it does, do you really want an item that s**t the bed before you even got your hands on it?


One other thing - I've heard, and read, that the power tools manufactured specifically for sale at Home Depot and Lowes, and other chain stores, are made from substandard materials. I don't know this to be fact, but if anybody else can shed light on the subject, I'd appreciate it. My wallet thanks you in advance.
The warranty applies.

It's not that they're made from substandard parts but theyare cheapened out. Motors with fewer windings, etc. That from a factory rep for PC.
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Old 10-13-2012, 07:11 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GraphicGr8s View Post
i want that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That's 246.75 hp more than my biggest router.

If I were starting over or a newbie now I'd look more at a compact router first instead of a full size. I would be looking at the Dewalt 611 pk because it has a fixed base and plunge. Once you use a plunge you'll wonder how you did it before.

By recip are you talking a sabre saw or a "Sawzall"?

The large "sawzall" is referred to as a recip or reciprocating saw while the small one is correctly a sabre saw although many call it a jigsaw.
Lol! Meant 2.5hp

Plunge? I rarely used that, I would just get the porter cable. With smaller routers you end up frustrated at some point as if you got a 12v cordless drill or something! Lol

I meant "sawzall", geez dude who calls a jig saw "reciprocating saw" lol!


OP:
Please make sure to get properly trained to use power tools, there is many ways to get seriously hurt. Safety first!
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Old 10-13-2012, 07:19 AM   #30
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You know... I think about 18v drill and impact driver as hammers. You can pay more for a brand that will do the same thing but will hurt more if broken or stolen as they get borrowed a lot.

I dropped my RYOBI impact driver from 24' ladder and it didn't hurt (still works) but if it was an expensive makita I would have suffered.

There is other power tools you wanna have good quality from a performance and safety point of view, like a table saw or a skill saw (circular saw for mr. Right word ) but not impact and drill IMO. Specially if this is not for work.
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