Basic acrylic fabrication - Page 2
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Old 03-08-2011, 02:30 PM   #16
scapegoat
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Originally Posted by VaultBoy View Post
wow... i dont know what to say about this, it almost seems too good for a DIY thread as most (99.9%) people couldnt do this and i have all the tools and possibly the skills but im too scared to try it well done
i agree. this is a bit more than basic... i think basic i think drop checkers haha.

fantastic thread regardless
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Old 03-15-2011, 03:54 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Gatekeeper View Post
Awesome build. Your power tools are sweet.
Thanks!

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I was thinking about building a tank, but I am glad I read this so I know to leave this to the pros. I even work at a machine shop where I could get my panes cut on a cnc router.
The way this is detailed, if you take it 1 step at a time, is not that hard and you end up with very very accurate parts. no cnc required.
People have been building very nice aquariums long before CNC machines.


Quote:
Originally Posted by VaultBoy View Post
wow... i dont know what to say about this, it almost seems too good for a DIY thread as most (99.9%) people couldnt do this and i have all the tools and possibly the skills but im too scared to try it well done
Too good! thanks,
I tried to show decent detail because there is very little good info on how to perform this type of fabrication with decent quality.
I find most cabinetry work I do to be much harder and more detailed in steps you perform.


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Originally Posted by scapegoat View Post
i agree. this is a bit more than basic... i think basic i think drop checkers haha.

fantastic thread regardless
basic, advance, uber hard !

Or when I was teaching myself I did find this to be almost impossible. So you got me on the title.

Thanks again for reading
md
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Old 03-15-2011, 04:30 PM   #18
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WoW, that is one sexy tank! Great work!
And thanks for the walkthrough, i'll definitely keep this as a bookmark for the future
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Old 03-15-2011, 06:08 PM   #19
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This should be sticky!
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Old 03-16-2011, 01:59 PM   #20
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+1 on the sticky

I have just read this again and im amazed again. I really want to try this but will probably start smaller.
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:53 PM   #21
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Add some more green to this old thread

mD
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Old 10-03-2011, 02:59 PM   #22
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Outstanding!
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Old 10-05-2011, 12:40 AM   #23
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Amazing work! The finished product looks great!
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Old 10-05-2011, 01:10 AM   #24
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Amazing work. Is the top rim necessary or is it just for security purposes?
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Old 10-05-2011, 03:46 AM   #25
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I believe the term for the top rim is "euro-brace".
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Old 10-05-2011, 02:25 PM   #26
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Outstanding!
Thank you very much.

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Originally Posted by slavecorps View Post
Amazing work! The finished product looks great!
Thanks again

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Originally Posted by chad320 View Post
Amazing work. Is the top rim necessary or is it just for security purposes?
The acrylic sheet on top hold the sides just like rimmed glass tanks.
A rimmless display would need acrylic 3/4" thick and cost 2+x more . It can be done, it just adds more cost.

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I believe the term for the top rim is "euro-brace".
Works for me!
Eurobrace is a term for glass displays with a rim of glass around top edge.
On acrylic displays its a 1 piece sheet with access opening cut into it. A little different construction method but more or less same thing.

Thanks again for Reading
mD
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Old 10-06-2011, 09:58 PM   #27
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Have you ever considered building/selling custom tanks? I need an odd sized (narrow) rectangular acrylic sump tank and would gladly pay for time/materials and shipping. The "professionals" only seem to be interested in building huge tanks for lots of money.

Sean
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Old 09-24-2012, 02:05 PM   #28
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The start of a new project.


Cut to rough size from some scrap the first parts.



Nylon Thumb screws and o-rings



Mill and tap some holes for nylon thumb screws, mill a 1/2 round into acrylic part for rubber o-ring seal




Good idea to do this in matched sets so all the parts align.


Last edited by mountaindew; 09-26-2012 at 01:31 AM.. Reason: add to Text
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Old 09-24-2012, 03:36 PM   #29
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This is the thread I was looking for last year and couldn't find it again.
I saw the pictures in passing and was looking at how you are finishing the edges of the plexi on the router table. That method has to be the most unsafe method ever of finishing off an edge.
Done the right way the router bit will pull the piece into the fence. This requires the router bit to be mostly buried in the fence. That's the safest way. In most cases the worst that happens if you should let go of the piece it moves back a little and away from the bit.

What you are doing with this method is called a "climb" cut. You have trapped the workpiece between the fence and the bit and there is no good direction for the workpiece to go without injury. You are pulling the piece AWAY from the fence and into the bit with the possibility of severe injury to both the sheet of plexi and your fingers.

Remember, that bit is turning at about 20,000 rpm depending on router.

Sure I make climb cuts in wood when necessary (depending on grain) but it is the exception, not the rule. One thing I will never do is trap a workpiece like you have done here.

It should be stressed about how dangerous this method is and proper precautions need to be taken. Your attention can't be diverted for a second. It's not for a person with no experience with a router and proper technique.
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Old 09-25-2012, 01:58 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GraphicGr8s View Post
This is the thread I was looking for last year and couldn't find it again.
I saw the pictures in passing and was looking at how you are finishing the edges of the plexi on the router table. That method has to be the most unsafe method ever of finishing off an edge.
.
Like most fabrications with tools and materials, there are many methods or ways to complete an operation. Any and all power tools can be and are dangerous if not used poperly.

The operation you are talking about is done this way for a specific reason!
By using this method to SIZE the sheets. you end up with in this case 4 sheets that are all EXACTLY the same size in height.
No other way to do this.

The real fun is when you do this with 1" thick sheet material that weighs 200 lbs and cost big $$$$ . The HOBBY table saw / router table you see in pictures can not complete that work with the precision required.
A 4'x8'x2" thick router table with 4ft and 8ft fences is used, and yes you have to trap the material in order to mill it to exact size. Takes time and care but imho its easy and safe as any other shop operation.


You want to see some unsafe shop work stay tuned. Making small parts with big power tools is imho the dangerous work. Milling big sheets of plastic is easy and safe compaired

be safe

md
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