Tropical Carnivorous plants?
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Old 11-02-2005, 06:03 PM   #1
Zaphod_Beeblebrox
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Tropical Carnivorous plants?


I am planing on having a variety of tropical carnivorous plants in my paludarium and have been putting a list together of plants that do not require dormancy. I plan on having a few VFT and non-tropical pitchers but want the majority to be plants that can stay all through the year. I am also trying to select tropicals that are less than $20 each.

Here is my list so far

Cape Sundew-Typical Form D. capensis

Spoon Leaf Sundew Drosera spatulata

N. sanguinea tropical pitcher red

N. ventricosa (red form)

Nepenthes macfarlanei

Nepenthes Burbidgeae

Any further suggestions?
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Old 11-03-2005, 11:49 AM   #2
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I really hope you're not planning on going out and "collecting" these plants...that's a major no no since the majority you've listed are LOCALLY endangered/threatened species, if not State/Federal....at least you didn't mention any Sarracenia (true pitcher plants)
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Old 11-03-2005, 02:54 PM   #3
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Many of the ones I listed are not local to me. We do in South Georgia have allot of carnivorous plants but there are strict laws against harvesting them. I have heard that you can collect seeds and grow them though. I buy them, no intention of collecting.
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Old 11-05-2005, 02:06 AM   #4
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I would really like to see someone do this... A carnivorous plants paluadrium... I put 2 butterworts and a sundew...(cheap ones... from Home D-Pot) and they are growing ok on the side of my tank in my 20G paluadrium(I used the old fizz tab factory container (rectangle), turned it upsidedown and suctioned it to the side and grow it with 3parts peat moss, and 1 part sand. Hope they grow, they seem to be doing fine. Just make sure you water them with distilled water or rain water, NO TAP water in case you didnt know that, but I'm sure you do. What will you be using for light? I thought since most of the CPs (besides the fly trap) dont like direct sun light.... I'm thinking my 28 watts 6700K will be ok. We'll soon find out wont we?
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Old 11-05-2005, 02:34 AM   #5
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I have a RO/DI unit. I will have this 90 under my 550w ice caps, but I will move the lights above the tank until I can find the right amount of light so I do not end up with an algae tank.
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Old 11-20-2005, 10:43 PM   #6
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A few pointers...

The majority of carnivorous plants require, or only look their best with full sun, or in this case; strong artifical lights.

Nepenthes do not like to be waterlogged, and require air to the roots.... bear that it mind when planting.... they will have to be in separate pots raised above the surface of the substrate.

Not all genera will share the same soil preference, some may not be suitable, or will not grow as well as they should. Again, separate pots would be the answer for the pickier types.

Drosera capensis and Drosera spatulata are veritable weeds as far as CP's go though, and will probably survive just fine!

I would add lots of tropical Utricularia's direct in the terrestrial substrate, as not only do they love to be waterlogged, they also grow quite easily in a standard mix of peat and sand, spread fast, and when they flower, the paludarium will look stunning!

For longevity of life in the paludarium, I would stick to easy tropical/mexican Pinguicula (butterworts), tropical Utricularia (terrestrial & aquatic), and easy tropical Drosera (sundews). Some of the hardier, more tolerant lowland Nepenthes (tropical pitcher) might grow well.

However, if you plan to suspend potted specimens catering for their own needs and only benefitting from the light and humidity of the paludarium (not technically part of the final display), then you can have any tropical really!

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Old 11-21-2005, 05:09 PM   #7
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Thanks Stu

I have the set up under 550w icecaps so light intensity is not a problem. Finding the right hieght to suspend the lights will be. If I do Nepenthes they will be lowland only, had not read enough about the highlands before. I do not think I can duplicate the cool nights that the highland varities require. I am concerned about how big Nepenthes can grow. Now I need to see if there are any lowlands that stay relatively small. I am trying to avoid any plants that because of thier size will make the setup look small. The sundews will help with this visual effect. I was going to have some planters high in the tank for trailing vines that have very small leaves and flowers. I could have some mid level planters for some lowland Nepenthes, if I can find a variety that would work as far as size.
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Old 11-21-2005, 05:33 PM   #8
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Just about every nepenthes out there will dwarf the other plants you mentioned. Even if they don't at first, they'll start to vine and will need to be trimmed back (for example I have one that's grown about 5 feet since not even the beginning of the year). There are some that stay very small, but will still vine and start to look funny. The problem with cutting them back is that pitchers only last so long, and if you keep cutting the vine back you won't be getting any new pitchers. You'd have to wait for a basal shoot to form and produce a new plant.

A good lowlander that has an interesting way of growing that's more paludarium-friendly is N. ampullaria. There are quite a few variations to choose from (not all readily available though).

I'm trying to think of other lowlanders that stay small and aren't hard to take care of. If I think of anything I'll mention it.

Keep in mind many highlanders can take lowland conditions as well.
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Old 11-21-2005, 05:38 PM   #9
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Thank you endparenthesis.
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Old 11-21-2005, 05:47 PM   #10
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This is one of the pitchers I have leaning towards as they stay small (or so they say) in direct bright light. Also a year round plant.

Cephalotus follicularis


http://www.nepenthesplants.com/cepha...8f3fbcd097d007
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Old 11-21-2005, 06:01 PM   #11
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As endparenthesis has mentioned, Nepenthes will be a problem unless cut back, and N. ampullaria was going to be my recommendation too.

Drosera capensis can grow relatively large, branching many times into a large clump. Also spreads quite easily by seed production! This will probably be still small enough for your situation.

If you want small plants, go for Utricularia and rosette forms of tropical Drosera (e.g D. spatulata).

Cephalotus is a picky plant that many have killed simply by accident. It should not be completely wet or waterlogged all the time, and should be allowed to go moist between waterings. If you keep it in a suspended pot, it might do just fine in the situation. The debate is still out as to whether Cephalotus benefits from a dormency or slower growth period, but it certainly does grow ok all year round without one. It's hard to say how it will react, but would be worth giving it a shot to see. The problem is that Cephalotus can be a pricey specimen to obtain due to it's difficulty in growing.

Regards,
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Old 11-21-2005, 06:36 PM   #12
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I was thinking of getting the rest of the species going and resolving how high to put my lights before taking the $35 a piece plunge.
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Old 11-21-2005, 10:58 PM   #13
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$35!

I guess I really was lucky to grab two rhizomes off a collector for 5 ($8.58)!

Best of luck with the project.... would love to see photos when it's up and running.

Regards,
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