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Old 09-16-2003, 12:37 AM   #1
Wasserpest
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What makes an image "good" or "perfect"? I think there are two parts to this... technical and aesthetical parts.
Technically, exposure should be pleasing, colors appear naturally (although what your eyes saw could be quite different), and the correct parts should be in focus.
Aesthetically, it should be interesting, have some value (perhaps only to the photographer...), it should tell you something. With value I mean some kind of unique-ness. Taking a technically perfect pic of a stop sign in front of blue sky doesn't fullfill this criterion...
Last night I stomped through my backyard looking for something interesting to "shoot", and I found some grasshoppers, the usual, but then I took some pics of a very common fly, and the closeup revealed details that just amazed me, nothing you think about when feeding it to your Butterfly fish... Since this isn't the right forum to post fly images, here at least my new male Butterfly. This must be the most photogenic of all fishies... not shy, doesn't move, and looks kinda interesting... but no challenge and not much "Unique-ness".



Now say :mrgreen: cheese please.

Any "unique" photos to share?
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Old 09-16-2003, 01:38 AM   #2
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Great colors , perfect body rotation...

awesome photo bro
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Old 09-16-2003, 01:42 AM   #3
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Wasserpest, one way you can add interest to your butterfly fish pics is to drop the F-stop down so that there's only a small plane of focus, then take a photo where the eye or mouth is in focus and the remainder of the body is blurred. Here's an example with an otherwise unassuming darter tetra:

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Old 09-16-2003, 04:01 AM   #4
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This is an older shot ot mine, but one of my favs...
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Old 09-16-2003, 04:05 AM   #5
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Man you guys are PRO's!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Unfortunately my sony does not have those features....i guess some day i will try for a new camera!

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Old 09-16-2003, 04:14 AM   #6
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lol, I know the feeling. The pic I took, was with my uncles 5 years old mavica, that takes WAY better shots then my sony does. I needa macro lense!
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Old 09-16-2003, 04:19 PM   #7
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Very nice pic Tula. I know what you mean about the depth of field... sometimes you try to get everything as focused as possible, but sometimes less is more... I always try to move the point of interest (often the eyes) out of the exact center into the third/two thirds area, this adds some interest too.

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Originally Posted by Pooky125
I needa macro lense!
Now that you said the M word... I am going to post that fly pic. Made it with a cheap +4 diopter. For some reason I can't post attachments anymore, I think it is due to the very secure firewall program trying to protect me :roll: edit: Ahhh, now it works!
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Old 09-16-2003, 08:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wasserpest
I always try to move the point of interest (often the eyes) out of the exact center into the third/two thirds area, this adds some interest too.
Often, but not always. I think my pic works well with the face dead-center because the length of the body and the leaves in the left foreground already provide the composition with a sense of imbalance. The rule of thirds is a good one to keep in mind, though.
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Old 09-17-2003, 04:57 PM   #9
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Mmmmm... macros! Not unique, but always surprising.
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Old 09-17-2003, 05:48 PM   #10
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Impressive! I've taken some "ok" macro shots with my cheapo Kodak DX4330, but I've never gotten that kind of depth of field! Must aspire towards an adjustable digital camera!
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Old 09-17-2003, 06:02 PM   #11
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Digitals have an amazing DOF compared to regular 35mm cameras. But it still helps if you can adjust the f-stop manually.
The real trick is to get things in focus, and this is where a manual focus lock comes in handy. In manual focus mode, the G3 magnifies a center area of the LCD screen (via digital zoom) which - once you get used to it - helps a lot to find that sweet point or plane of focus.
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Old 10-01-2003, 08:40 PM   #12
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Don't forget, most cameras have 3 settings for taking a photo.
- - 1: Focal Range AKA: Normal, (Auto on new digital cameras)
Use (Focal Range) for your normal every-day photos, usually center weighted.
- - 2: Infinity AKA: Mountain-Range, (Equivalent of the old Pin-Hole cameras)
Used to create a Flat Focus range that keeps a mild focus on target, while capturing details of your distant background.
- - 3: Close-Up AKA: Tulip, (This is the same as Focal Range (Auto))
Use this for any object that is within 3in. - 3ft. The pinhole is used with the focus, which gives a pin-point target focus. Any object that isn't dead center will be out of focus, foreground and background.

The AKA: is refering to the icon that most cameras use to show the focus type.

The above info is most directly related to digital cameras, and may also apply to any newer camera that is being made. If you take fish-tank shots, you NEED to use the CLOSE-UP settings, unless you are zooming from across the room! Never use infinity-focus (Most disposable 110 cameras are infinity-focus) as this will never give you a clear picture unless you are at least 10ft. - 1000ft. away.

One more trick to superb photos, if your camera has a delayed snapshot, use it... Set your camera on a tripod, or stack of books, and set the delay snapshot... Take your shaky hands off the camera, and wait for the picture to shoot...

Also, try to limit flashes, provide additional lighting where needed. When more light is present, the picture will turn out better because the shutter only has to stay open a fraction of a second... AUTO cameras will keep the shutter open until enough light enters. In poor light conditions you will see motion blur from shaky hands, and moving fish. Or, place a sheet of white paper in front of the flash to diffuse the light. The camera exposure computer determines how long to keep the flash and shutter on for.
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