Kg's 55 gallon tank stand **56k**
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:33 AM   #1
Kevyg
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Kg's 55 gallon tank stand **56k**


So The more money I started spending on my tank the more uneasy I started to feel about the wonderful $100 Wal-Mart stand that was below it holding up my investment. This stemmed the idea of building a stand, and here is the long process:

Started off with basic 2x4 construction of the framework:

Once that was done I cut 1x4's to size for nailers. The sole
Purpose for this addition is to give an even surface for the ply-wood to be nailed to.


Once that was done, I attached the ply wood pieces I had cut to size.

Quick coat of primer and paint and we are on our way to getting some doors.

I didn't get a picture after the black paint.

Construction of the doors below.....

Last edited by Kevyg; 02-28-2012 at 05:24 PM..
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:50 AM   #2
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The Doors:

Firs off I marked off two inches on the table saw and ripped some 2x12 pine into 2" strips for the border of the doors.

Once that was done I cut two sets of framework for the cabinet doors.

Once that was done, I measured the table saw to be offset 1/4 inch from the center and cut 1/4" wide by 1/2" deep grooves Into the edge if the pieces. ( the table saw blade is 1/8" thick)


Once that was done I cut out the center piece. When measuring the center piece, make the frame then measure inside to inside edge. Once done add one inch to compensate for the 1/2" grooves cut.

Once done I fit everything together, gluing and nailing grooves and corners to keep secure.




Once assembly of both doors was complete they got a paint job and were then given handles.

I got into the project and didn't take pics till the doors were mounted and the stand was painted and finished. But here it is, completely finished ( minus the moulding that will go on once the tank is on it ( to save knuckle damage ).

And the tank on its new stand


Kinda ran out of paint so the moulding it just primed right now.

Thank you for checking it out!!! I worked extremely hard and did not post half of the detail and things that went into it. Check out my tank journal for more updates on specifics of my tank . (will post in my signature when I am at a computer)

thanks!!!

-Kevin G. (KG)

Last edited by Kevyg; 02-28-2012 at 01:34 PM..
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Old 02-28-2012, 06:04 AM   #3
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I like how there is the extra edge around the top. It's nice! Now if I can make my husband make one...


-Val
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Old 02-28-2012, 01:28 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psionic View Post
I like how there is the extra edge around the top. It's nice! Now if I can make my husband make one...


-Val
Thank you . This was my latest DIY that got the " stamp of approval" by the fiancee. The last project was a kitchen island that was really more for function than was for looks ... :p

After her letting me know daily on how much she liked it..... I finally just used it as a shop table.
That being said, I had to make this Stand look good In order to avoid a repeat offense :p. The island took 2 hrs to do, this stand took 3 weekends of all day work both days. But I kinda feel like it was worth it .
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Old 02-28-2012, 02:41 PM   #5
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Looks good man!

Did you already have the 55g on a walmart stand?
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Old 02-28-2012, 02:54 PM   #6
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Yeah, It had been on there for two years, always had leaned a little bit to the left and didnt have the amount of substrate it has now. Or the investment :p
That's the old stand in it's new home 45 gal community tank will go on this.
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:01 PM   #7
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ic,
I have my 30g on a walmart stand that was meant for a 55g. Thought it was the same. But it different. It quite nice for a walmart item.
When I went to pick up the box, It was heavy, i knew it wasnt cheap particle board.
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
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ic,
I have my 30g on a walmart stand that was meant for a 55g. Thought it was the same. But it different. It quite nice for a walmart item.
When I went to pick up the box, It was heavy, i knew it wasnt cheap particle board.
Particle board is heavier than solid wood.

Only thing I would worry about is your doors. With a miter you are gluing mostly edge grain. Not much strength there. You also glued your panel in from what I can tell. Down side to that is as the panel shrink and evpands it wants to rip apart the miter. Most doors are stub tenons on the stiles into the rails.
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:34 PM   #9
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Particle board is heavier than solid wood.

Only thing I would worry about is your doors. With a miter you are gluing mostly edge grain. Not much strength there. You also glued your panel in from what I can tell. Down side to that is as the panel shrink and evpands it wants to rip apart the miter. Most doors are stub tenons on the stiles into the rails.

Oh never knew that. Always thought solid wood was.
Learn something new every day. Haha
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GraphicGr8s View Post
Particle board is heavier than solid wood.

Only thing I would worry about is your doors. With a miter you are gluing mostly edge grain. Not much strength there. You also glued your panel in from what I can tell. Down side to that is as the panel shrink and evpands it wants to rip apart the miter. Most doors are stub tenons on the stiles into the rails.
It is basic 1/4 MDF inside of the wood frame with finishing nails. On the inside and what I should probably include in the build are 90degree flat angle brackets on the top corner by handle and opposite bottom corner by hinge.

built the doors at a different location from home where I added these later ( hence no pictures ). I'll take some when I get home :p.

I did this method because I wasn't about to drop $120 on a new set of router bits when I have a table saw that can pull off a similar effect. Just gotta reinforce the corners.
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Old 02-28-2012, 06:36 PM   #11
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Very nice work. Would love to see how it looks with a filled tank
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:08 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevyg View Post
It is basic 1/4 MDF inside of the wood frame with finishing nails. On the inside and what I should probably include in the build are 90degree flat angle brackets on the top corner by handle and opposite bottom corner by hinge.

built the doors at a different location from home where I added these later ( hence no pictures ). I'll take some when I get home :p.

I did this method because I wasn't about to drop $120 on a new set of router bits when I have a table saw that can pull off a similar effect. Just gotta reinforce the corners.
You could have done it without a router at all. You were half way there. You did the groove part. Cutting the tongue (or stub tenon same thing in this case) was even easier. I just did 8 doors for a shaker style cabinet this way.
The router bits would only be if you wanted to profile the inside of the frame and form a cope and stick joint. A straight profile is easy-peasy.
Another idea to strengthen it would be to have used a spline joint on the miter. Again, all on the table saw.

The stand looks good. Looking again at it though it seems as if you are relying on the fastener to hold the weight of the tank.

Hope you take this in the helpful manner I mean it in. Hard to tell the tone of someone typing on a forum so I will say outright it's meant in only a constructive manner.
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:30 PM   #13
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I do appreciate the input, it always helps future DIY projects go smoother. the main support of the tank is the vertical 2x4's surrounded by the wooden frame then the ply wood avoids any chance of sway.



And I am open to hear possible better Support options, I just figured 6 vertical 2x4's supported by the framing were sufficient . The nailers and facing is purely aesthetic. Except of course for the ply wood, that has 2 1/2" nails goin through to the support frame with the nails every 6".
I do appreciate the input, considering I am doing all of this off of the top of my head. I take it as help that's the only way to improve on what you do.
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Old 02-28-2012, 08:39 PM   #14
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This is how I would do it. Hope you can understand my drawing. The front rail and rear rail are supported by the legs. The sides are just glued and screwed to the legs and the front/back rail The front/back rails extend past the legs by the width of the 2x. (1.5"mol)
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Old 02-28-2012, 08:53 PM   #15
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Definitely get what you mean in the drawing, basic notching for flush 2x4's that set into their support for more stability.
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