90 gallon planted tank with sump - Page 2
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Old 01-21-2012, 02:46 PM   #16
SlammedDC2
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Tank looks great.
I'm interested to know how your co2 is doing with the sump. My 125g is sumped and I will be turning my co2 on today.
We have close to the same setup, planted, sumped, bloodfins, plans to add discus.
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:57 PM   #17
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Well, here is an update on the tank.

After talking with a lot of people and getting some advice on discus, I have decided not to go with discus at this point. Instead I went with 7 of the new blue colored striped angelfish. I will try and post pictures of these tonight or tomorrow. Everyone was telling me that I need to start with adult discus, in order for them to have a chance in a planted tank like this. Didn't want to spend $400 on fish before I had the planted tank aspect under control. So these angelfish will be the centerpiece for a while. Eventually I will try the discus, maybe in a different style tank.

As far as the plants go. Not the best. Having a hard time getting the light, co2, ferts balanced. I had a huge blue green cyano out break that pretty much wiped out my E tenellus. The other plants should be ok. The cyano started subsiding so I didn't do the blackout but probably still should. Might have to replace some plants.

I started out dosing fertilizers on the light side so as not to overdo it. Using the EI method. But tested my nitrates found they were zero, which was a little hard to beleive. So now doing the full recommended amount.

I have been playing with my co2 and finally got my drop checker to turn green. But using about 4 bubbles per second to acheive this. I was running my mag 7 return pump wide open through the co2 reactor and this was doing about 500 gph I figured. Realized this was way too much flow and the co2 wasn't fully dissolving before leaving the reactor. Lots of large bubbles. So now I turned the flow down to maybee half and it is fully being dissolved. Hopefully I can reduce my bubble rate and keep my green drop checker. My water chemistry is about 3 dkh alkalinity and ph is 7.25 with the drop checker green.


If I can't do this I may redo my plumbing from a durso style drain to the herbie method to help prevent off gassing. And then I might also plumb a bypass in the return to keep the flow reduced in the reactor but utilize the full flow of my mag 7 in the the return out lets.

Not sure about light either. I have the 4 by 65 watt power compacts on a 90 gallon. Now I am running 2 bulbs (130 watts) for 12 hours a day and then all four bulbs (260 watts) for six hours in the middle of the day.

So what do the experienced planted tank guys think? Am I balanced with light/co2/ferts? Help a new guy out with these plants. Things are definitely not balanced.

Fish btw are all doing great. They are the easy part. I do the pictures of the angels.
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Old 01-22-2012, 10:23 PM   #18
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Yeah, the durso is just expelling the air bubbles+whatever CO2 diffused out as the air/water fell through the pipes. A herbie oughtn't do that. I don't really care that much that the sump is wasting gas, gas isn't all that expensive compared to all the rest of the monthly expenses. Just increase the gas to the level that works for your plants and animals.

Your pump is lifting 500gph? I would want to split the flow too. My RIO 2500 only lifts 300gph because of the height, length and all the right angles in my set up and does fine with the little 3"x12" reactor.

Try cutting back on the lighting period. I was helped out in this by my plants. Wisteria, Myriophyllum and Rotala all were closing up their leaves before the lights went out so I reduced the hours until they closed up just before lights were out, about 8 hours of full light. Maybe try 10 hours total with 4-6 hours with all the bulbs lit.
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:11 AM   #19
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Dustin,

Did you seal the sump and overflow?
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:19 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smiller View Post
Dustin,

Did you seal the sump and overflow?

Technically no

The top of the overflow is mostly sealed.

I have absolutely no surface agitation in the sump, calm as can be. However the air is exiting the reverse durso air hole. It would be pretty hard to reacapture all of this.

I am convinced there is no way to effectively "seal" the sump. This would make it difficult for maintain things and limit other gas exchange. Don't want to sacrifice oxygenation.

So I think the answer is the Herbie method. Create a full syphon and limit how much air is expelled from the system.
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:29 AM   #21
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Makes sense. Doesn't a Herbie take two exit drains as opposed to one for the Durso?

Best of luck getting things situated soon.
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:42 AM   #22
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tank is looking good.

fyi, some of those plants look like they've been grown outside of an aquarium so you'll get some melting and dead stuff... which is probably why you got algae.

i received an order from ap.com as well and am noticing some melt off as the plants adjust.
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:05 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kathyy View Post
Yeah, the durso is just expelling the air bubbles+whatever CO2 diffused out as the air/water fell through the pipes. A herbie oughtn't do that. I don't really care that much that the sump is wasting gas, gas isn't all that expensive compared to all the rest of the monthly expenses. Just increase the gas to the level that works for your plants and animals.
I agree. I don't know much about the Herbie other than what I have read the last couple of days, but by using this method instead of the vented Durso and maybe also positioning your overflow exit pipes in your sump under the water level in a manner to prevent as much agitation as possible wouldn't that come close to preventing significant Co2 loss? Someone please correct me if I'm not seeing something.
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Old 01-23-2012, 03:30 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smiller View Post
I agree. I don't know much about the Herbie other than what I have read the last couple of days, but by using this method instead of the vented Durso and maybe also positioning your overflow exit pipes in your sump under the water level in a manner to prevent as much agitation as possible wouldn't that come close to preventing significant Co2 loss? Someone please correct me if I'm not seeing something.
This sounds like the best possible senario, so that is what I am going to try. I am going change to a herbie method by bringing the return up over the back of the tank. Then utilize the small drain hole as the primary drain with a valve on it to create the full siphon. The larger drain hole will be the back up.

And then I will also eliminate the reverse durso in my sump and just exit the pipe under the water level. Might also go back to utilizing filter socks then as well.

I will update with the results. Not sure when I will get to this plumbing project.
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:12 PM   #25
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Been a while, time for an update on this tank. This tank still isn't where I want it to be. But am going to focus on making it successful since I took down the reef tank for a while.

Quick stats.

Fish
5 Blue Angelfish
10 Bloodfin Tetras
5 Otos (Approximate)

Few nerite snails and a bunch of small hitchiker snails

Plants
Jungle val
Amazon Sword
Bronze Crypt
A little Java Fern

I have been dosing my ferts regularly now. Doing the water changes as per EI says. Plants are looking a lot better. Been more generous with the nitrate fertilzer too. Very little cyano on the plants and driftwood. Still quite a bit on the substrate though.

I do have the plumbing switched over to the Herbie method which is a lot nicer for Co2 off gassing. I did add a koralia with about 400 gph flow so with 500 from my return pump I have 900 total.

As far as the Co2 goes I found that if run about 1.5 bubbles per second it just starts turning the drop checker green. This basically maintains the ph at 6.5. This makes sense according the ph/kh/co2 tables. I have it set up to shut off at night. Then the ph goes up to 7.0. So not too bad of a swing. I also have my reef keeper programmed to cut power to the co2 if ph gets below 6.2. So I think I have my perfectly calm sump working efficiently as far as co2 loss goes. 1.5 bps on a 90 gallon isn't too bad is it?

I'm thinking about adding some fish to up the bioload. I have a credit at live aquaria. Going to add some more otos, nerites, and a school of cories I think. Any suggestions on a what kind and how many corydoras? What about a bristlenose pleco? I am thinking they might help stir up the bottom a little. I also need to look into a few more plants.
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:15 PM   #26
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I was looking on live aquaria. I have kept peppered cories in the past. They were nice. I think I'm going to go with 7 or 8 of the Swartz's Cory Cat.

Too bad they are not in stock

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Old 12-09-2012, 05:13 PM   #27
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I have two of the bristlenose plecos in my 150. They have just about put my nerites and pond snails out of business.

I have been tinkering with a low light system since around April with limited success. Very slow plant growth although most of the plants look decent, especially the swords and crypts. I bought some LEDs and I am just waiting on my new Sicce needle wheel pump and will be ready to hook up CO2. My Herbie setup has very little water movement in the sump. I have both overflows set to almost completely fill and they run separately to the sump and the water exits under the sump water line in T fittings as to slow down water agitation even more. I'm thinking/hoping to not have a CO2 degassing problem.

I am curious about what you said about shutting off your CO2 at night. If you have your controller set to turn off CO2 at 6.2 while not just let that take care of things? That is what I was planning to let my Aquacontroller do. What am I missing?
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Old 12-09-2012, 06:28 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smiller View Post
I have two of the bristlenose plecos in my 150. They have just about put my nerites and pond snails out of business.

I am curious about what you said about shutting off your CO2 at night. If you have your controller set to turn off CO2 at 6.2 while not just let that take care of things? That is what I was planning to let my Aquacontroller do. What am I missing?
Basically I am shutting the co2 off at night because it doesn't do any good to pump in co2 when the lights are off and plants aren't photosynthesizing. Then my co2 tank lasts longer. Also when I was researching using a ph controller to completely control Co2, I found that your kh can change for various reasons like when you do a water change or possibly with fertilizers. It affects your ph and then by default your Co2 levels. This way the co2 level stays more constant and the fish are safegaurded from a major malfunction or ph drop.

I'll have to seriously look into one of those bristlenoses.
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Old 12-09-2012, 06:34 PM   #29
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Thanks for that info. Makes good sense.

You'll like the bristles. Mine are super active during the day.
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