DIY CO2 for the Newbie setup - Page 2
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Old 01-03-2012, 05:25 PM   #16
Msouza91
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I have a stupid noob question but when setting up a DIY co2 with yeast should I let it sit for a couple hours and wait for the bubbles with a test tank?
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:53 PM   #17
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Msouza91, thank you for asking i had the same question.
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:22 AM   #18
AirstoND
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Nothing to fear. Bubbles should start soon after pressure builds up and yeast are alive.

Please read the link below:

http://www.qsl.net/w2wdx/aquaria/diyco2.html
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:16 PM   #19
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So glad I found this thread. Thanks for the write up...
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:32 PM   #20
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Nice thread. I'm following this one.
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Old 01-18-2013, 07:40 PM   #21
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Plant fertilizers are available as liquid or substrate fertilizers. Both should only contain the micro nutrients. Liquid fertilizers have to be dosed more frequently; substrate fertilizers will last longer. Since there are no obvious differences in efficiency, it is up to the aquarists' preference which to use.

Next to the micro nutrients, fertilizers contain chelates. The chelate is an organic molecule which binds metal ions thus protecting them from early precipitation. The preferred type is abbreviated DTPA because of its stability up to a pH level of 7.5

Unfortunately some fertilizers contain the chelate EDTA, which is much cheaper. However chelate EDTA is only stable at a pH up to 6.0 and therefore mostly useless in aquariums.

What do you think?

Thanks
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:11 AM   #22
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That was some easily understandable information that really halped me figure out the CO2 my plants need =) thanks a bunch
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:16 AM   #23
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although i do now have a question, i have well water down in south florida, and my water is very high in iron. i have Flourite substrate and also the liquid Flourish (from another tank, have not used it with the substrate tank). would my high iron in the water decrease my need for the liquid fertilizer?
or am i overthinking it? lol
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:28 AM   #24
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Live out in the Estates? I just moved from Naples... lol

My advice is just try and see... learn to observe your plants, they'll start discoloring if they need iron.
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:33 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwm5 View Post
good write up. nice easily explained information.

few questions that I have...

Will having CO2/ferts expand your effective light range. Probably confusing statement, what I mean is if I have a low light tank with ferts and CO2 will I be able to potentially keep moderate light plants in the tank? Or are light levels locked, low light plants can grow in all light levels, as if it were an upward ladder, plants can use light levels up the ladder, but never down the ladder, ie high light would never do well in moderate/low light.

I have just set up a new tank 30Xhigh. Currently my plans are mostly a planted tank with little to no fish. If there are no fish (there are a few snails) do I have to worry about CO2 levels or can I just throw a DIY system on there and not worry about oxygen levels.

Is there such a thing as over fertilizing. In a tank with or without fish ( I also have a 55 planted with fish, moderate light but no CO2) is it possible to overdose the fertilization to the point where it negatively effects plants (in a non fish tank) or fish in an populated tank.

My 55gallon (~2.3 wpg) has BBA. I have routinely started Flourish (2x week) and daily Excel. The BBA does not appear to be spreading at all in the tank, and no other algae seems to be growing. Will regular dosing of ferts and presumably healthy plants ever be enough to get rid of the BBA or once I have it even if it isnt spreading it will not go away on its own. Will the addition of pressurized CO2 cause the algae to die off? And if I add CO2 should I discontinue Excel, but continue on with the other ferts?

Edit- thought of another one. I run an airpump in 55g 24/7. It is not overpopulated, but it is probably about as stocked as I would want it, close to capacity, without overcrowding. If I ran CO2 would I be a fool to continue running the airpump, at least when the light was on? Or if it is pressurized CO2 put through a reactor, will it not matter. The air pump is a model for a 20 gallon tank, so it isnt pumping out huge amounts of air, but I had shut them off when I first started using Excel, and I guess I had a ph crash (if thats possible with Excel) I woke up the next morning and 30% of my fish were dead, got the airspump back on and within half an hour everyone that was still alive was back to normal. So I am nervous about the whole CO2 / lower oxygen level issue...

Thanks for any info you can offer...

The only thing I can't find is a small enough bottle for this the only one I can find is an old spice jar that's glass and about 3" long/ deep would that still be accurate if filled just under the top of the glue cap there will be a lot of space in there?
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Old 02-23-2013, 12:37 PM   #26
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Whilst some say higher levels CO2 do not reduce dissolved oxygen in the water (it sometimes can, depending on other factors) even moderate increases can have some fish gasping at the water surface. If it doesn't affect the dissolved O2 then what's going on?

To diffuse the CO2 out of their blood across their gill surfaces, fish require a concentration differential between the water and the blood. As the differential diminishes due to increased CO2, the gas exchange slows and stops. The fish can't excrete the CO2 and they die. This is sometimes exacerbated by aquarists 'turning off' the air stone so as to reduce CO2 loss at the surface. This the results in lowering the dissolved O2. Then the lights go out and the plants start respiration. They stop eating CO2, start using oxygen and the balance tips and in the morning you find some dead fish and it's a mystery.
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Old 05-07-2013, 12:00 AM   #27
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REVIIIIVEEE !!!!

oK...So I just did this DIY and after a couple of hours of hunting around this was the best I could do:

















Now....I didn't have the proper tool to cut a larger hole out of the top of this salt shaker I bought...so left it thinking that the holes that were already in it may work......well after a couple hours the solution is still dark blue.

Mind you, I did follow all the direction and scaled up the mixture to 30mL of distilled water/baking soda, and 54 drops of the solution from the API pH test kit (9 drops x 5)....

Do you think that this is because I didn't cut the hole in the salt shaker head to make a bigger surface area? Or do you think it may be because of the tubing I connected to the paint tip applicator up to the 'air' in the shaker?? Maybe a combination of both?
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Old 06-03-2013, 02:11 PM   #28
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Hi, I have this plants in a riparium newly planted:


Do you think I need a co2 diffuzer in it (it's only 11 gal)? Any fertilizer outside/inside? (there will be fish in one month)
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:19 PM   #29
Aqua Jon
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Fantastic article! I'm going to be referencing it myself often and referring other to it as well! I have a few clarifications and a couple ideas I'd like to get opinions on.

First - I'm setting up a 50g heavy, i'd like to nail down the CO2 before adding fish, but dont know how much CO2 the fauna(phishies & inverts) will increase the concentration in the tank. Ie the tank begins without fauna at 20-25ppm CO2 with room for an additional 5-10ppm CO2 when the fish and such are added so that I dont exceed the recommended 30ppm.

Second - Is the drop checker a one time check that you need to refill for each reading or is it progressive?

Ideally i think it would be cool to have 2 drop checks, one with a 4dKh solution to make sure im under and one with a 3dKh solution to make sure i have enough CO2. Any thoughts on that?
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Old 08-26-2013, 03:09 PM   #30
danaj11
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if i wanted to start a 55g tank how many diy co2 you think for it 3? Since I have only 1 diy on my 10g
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