"New Tank Algae Syndrome" and how to prevent it? - Page 2
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Old 10-26-2011, 05:39 AM   #16
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Your filter is a bit small for a 12g long. I use the same filter on a 2.5g. Stagnate water causes some algae. Do you have algae now? Diatoms are inevitable but ottos and snails each those quick.
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:49 AM   #17
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Your filter is a bit small for a 12g long. I use the same filter on a 2.5g. Stagnate water causes some algae. Do you have algae now? Diatoms are inevitable but ottos and snails each those quick.
Oh really? I recall they were rated for 20-30 gallons right? Very good flow and very minimal algae.
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:58 AM   #18
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i never ever go by what they say it should be on but over filtration is much much better than less! just get the current/flow set correctly i still want to hook up my fx5 to my 40b i cant belive u get white clouds for that cheap thats awsome! i wouldnt worry at all about the osmocoat that doesnt cause gw inbalance in light co2 ext ext is what causes that so if its fine now it should keep the same heading later.
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Old 10-26-2011, 09:33 AM   #19
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i never ever go by what they say it should be on but over filtration is much much better than less! just get the current/flow set correctly i still want to hook up my fx5 to my 40b i cant belive u get white clouds for that cheap thats awsome! i wouldnt worry at all about the osmocoat that doesnt cause gw inbalance in light co2 ext ext is what causes that so if its fine now it should keep the same heading later.
The White clouds here are consider feeder fishes so they are the cheapest I could find to cycle. Can't really beat 10 for $1. When someone buys $5 or more, I just imagine they grab a whole bunch and not even bother to count 50 fishes.

As for the over filtration, that is why we went with the 501. Since its rated 20-30, its close to double our tank size so thought it should be "decent" enough. Any larger rated canisters are too big to put on the table, hosing is uglier because its larger, etc. so we though the 501 would be a perfect match
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Old 10-26-2011, 07:45 PM   #20
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a seriously common misconception is that algae is bad for tanks... its a balancing act between plants and algae competing for nutrients. Best way to prevent algae from over taking is establishing the plants and use a ton of co2 for the first 2 weeks.. This usually means no fish
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:16 PM   #21
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a seriously common misconception is that algae is bad for tanks... its a balancing act between plants and algae competing for nutrients. Best way to prevent algae from over taking is establishing the plants and use a ton of co2 for the first 2 weeks.. This usually means no fish
Thank you for your input. Very well said. We are going into our 4th week soon so we must have done the CO2 and lighting right. The O2 at first is around 3-4bps, now only back down to 1-2 and the CRS are doing just fine. When more higher grades come him, I hope to get away with just 0.5-1bps
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Old 10-31-2011, 02:47 AM   #22
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Bps can be a bit hard to estimate. Get a kh or a drop checker
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Old 10-31-2011, 08:46 AM   #23
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That is true. I have a drop checker. My tank is constantly running 0.5-1 bps almost 24/7. More like 15 hours a day. Plants looking healthy, pH is constant, no shifting and my CRS are looking good : )
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Old 10-31-2011, 10:23 AM   #24
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I just went back through your link to the tank thread - I love the bridge! Cool looking tank!
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Old 10-31-2011, 09:07 PM   #25
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I just went back through your link to the tank thread - I love the bridge! Cool looking tank!
Thank you!
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Old 10-31-2011, 10:35 PM   #26
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be careful having it run 24/7.... if the lights are not on... no CO2 is being taken up by the plants.. which means its staying in the water and ur depriving fish of O2 and causing a ph swing downward

PS where in SD are you... im in PB
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Old 11-01-2011, 04:51 AM   #27
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Thanks for the warning.
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algae control, algae prevention, new tank syndrome, pressurized co2

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