diy led's on 125 gal
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Old 12-23-2012, 06:24 PM   #1
nikom8992
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Default diy led's on 125 gal

i need some help i want high light on my tank but i want full control of intensity i was thinking of using:
makersled 72"
dim4 for sunrise/set
a 4 channel dimmer
75w inventronics driver x5
80 xm-l 6500k cool white (day)
20 royal blue 455 nm(morn1)
20 deep red 660nm(morn2)
15 true violet 405nm (night)
15 hyper violet 430nm(night)

theyll be in 30 cnt strings
10/20 cw/dr (m2) ch3
10/20 cw/rb (m1) ch2
15/15 tv/hv (n) ch4
60 cw (d) ch1
this is as far as i got if i may be missing anything please help i want a reefish look but for plants. this is a lot of money so i dont want to mess it up.any input will be helpful.
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Old 12-23-2012, 07:20 PM   #2
cheesehead
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Default whoa...

I think that 80 XML's will be overkill. You'll be at 400 - 500 PAR. There are some spreadsheets here for figuring out how many LED's and how much light, Hoppy's set one up.

I'm looking to do a similar build but am looking at ~20 XML's with a similar mix - about 10-15 violet, a few green, and about five red for full spectrum. About 100 PAR max with the lights 36 inches off the substrate, with the ability to turn the light down.
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Old 12-23-2012, 08:03 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheesehead View Post
I think that 80 XML's will be overkill. You'll be at 400 - 500 PAR. There are some spreadsheets here for figuring out how many LED's and how much light, Hoppy's set one up.

I'm looking to do a similar build but am looking at ~20 XML's with a similar mix - about 10-15 violet, a few green, and about five red for full spectrum. About 100 PAR max with the lights 36 inches off the substrate, with the ability to turn the light down.
thats why i needed help but only 60 (still prolly to much) xm-ls as daylight midday
i heard that greens and blue do nothing but when i looked at par charts chlorophyll a takes 450ish nm and 660 ish while chlor b takes 430ish and 640ish with greens and yellows rather nonexistent this confused me badly thats why i wanted help
i hope this helps you as well
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:53 AM   #4
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Default left hanging

is anyone going to help me? i would like some feed back as to if this would be a good light to build. am i putting to much light in will it look "real"? will plants be fine with the uv? am i putting in to many reds/blues/whites?
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Old 12-30-2012, 03:21 PM   #5
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Default Here's a thread...

which includes a calculator.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=168999

Here's a build link for a 72" full spectrum reef light, using ocean coral whites (mentioned below), way more light than you'll need for planted:

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/31152...ed-build-pics/

For your build, assuming your lights are 36" off the substrate and 60 degree optics, 80 XM-L's will give you 400 PAR when turned up to maximum. That's way too much for what's generally needed for a freshwater planted tank.

30 will give you a more reasonable 100 PAR, which is still high light, good if you can turn it down. And you should turn it down if you have all the other LED's running.

The 430 and 660 nm light will add to PAR. The 405 should, if I've been reading my literature correctly, help with the development of plants blues and reds (anthocyanins are formed in reaction to near-UV). I think you're way too high on the number of red LED's too.

Your mix may look a purplish with all the blue and red, you might want to add a little green to balance to white. Or just go with the 3-up Ocean Coral White LED's which have blue, teal, and red to make white. Then you can run your colors in conjunction with the XML-s during the day (and maybe cut down on them further).

Why green? Viewing. It helps to balance the blues and reds you're adding for photosynthesis so that the light isn't purple. It will help your leaves "pop", not to mention - what would a neon tetra look like without any blue/teal light to diffract off its stripe?

Not sure what you mean by

Quote:
theyll be in 30 cnt strings
10/20 cw/dr (m2) ch3
10/20 cw/rb (m1) ch2
15/15 tv/hv (n) ch4
60 cw (d) ch1
since all of the LED's you're using have different current requirements. You don't want to put 30 LED's in the same string, you'll have a total forward voltage of approx. 100 V (too high). You can't wire that voltage drop in one string (that's a lethal voltage). Parallel strings is a PITA if you know what you're doing and a recipe for blown LED's if you don't.

You can't put an XM-L and a 660nm LED in the same string (easily), and I'm not sure there's a driver around that will drive 30 XM-L's all on its own. 300 watts! Each different type of LED will need to have its own driver, and you'll need more than one driver for some.

My planned build which I'm not close to starting yet will have about 20-30 XML's, neutral and warm, about a dozen violets (405-430), with maybe 6 green and 3-6 red, for a 72" x 24" x 30" high 200 gallon. I'll need 2-3 drivers for the XML's (max current 3000 mA), one to two for the blues and violets (max current 500 mA), and another for the greens and reds (max current 500 mA) if I can get them in the same string.
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:34 PM   #6
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thank you for your help i understand you a bit more now but im still confused about the calculator cuase the makers led has five rows i wanted to fill each row up and at 28"above the substrate it calculates out to have a spacing of 3" between leds for a total par of 100 am i missing something? i was wanting to use the blue/red ch's as a sunrise/sunset and the xm-l's as mid-day burst. what would make it look like a reef sunrise sunset but for plants? would the uv be good for a moonlight? i was going to use five inventronics 75w 700ma drivers and i since i want sunrise sunset i was going to get the dim4 and the 4 pot dimming module. how many blues should i have? reds? wont whites wash out the purple? what would be a good color scheme for a natural sunrise/sunset? i feel as if im asking you to build it and ima sorry if thats the case but i just ahve so many questions about led's.
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:33 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikom8992 View Post

theyll be in 30 cnt strings
10/20 cw/dr (m2) ch3
10/20 cw/rb (m1) ch2
15/15 tv/hv (n) ch4
60 cw (d) ch1
these are the settings i want for like the sunrise/sunset each one timed to over lap each other to give a 100% day/night cycle. with each stage having a different gradual color spectrum to night.
but thats why i want to get a lot of input so i can get the right things at the right time and build one dream of a light. these are my new colors counts after looking at the calculator and a few dif pages and help from others but i still feel its going to be off a little. any input would be appreciated. feel free to recommend anything.

10x R
15x B
10x T, G, Y?
30x W (CW, WW, NW)
10x TV
10x HV

or less or more? i feel like i have to many colors but i want a glow in the dark look at night. but i dont know how many TV/HV to get.
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:08 PM   #8
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I think your led count looks ok. You've got 30 "white" XML's which by themselves, could provide up to 300 watts and plenty of PAR for growing anything you want. The rest of the leds will also contribute to PAR, but won't need to be relied on for anything other than color rendition. I'm looking forward to the build
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225 Gal, Glass "Reef Ready" w/ twin Iwaki Pumps & 2 Ocean Clear inline filters. Custom 320 watt LED Lighting system utilizing a 6' Maker's Heat Sink, 12 BridgeLux Vero 18's,3 purpose built 5 channel A6211 Led driver/Controllers, and a 20lb CO2 system w/ Milwaukee Ph Controller.
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:22 AM   #9
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i cant wait to buil it but i was wondering if there was anyway that i could do rainy day cloud cover and storm simulations with a diy setup and how id go about doing this. i know its a shot in the dark but it would be so cool to do this
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