Spectral Analysis for LEDs for use over planted aquaria; Graphs here!
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Old 05-08-2011, 07:01 PM   #1
redfishsc
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Default Spectral Analysis for LEDs for use over planted aquaria; Graphs here!

Here are some graphs that we put together using a spectrometer.

Here is the spectrometer we used, an OceanOptics S2000.
http://www.oceanoptics.com/Products/s2000.asp


I have about 28 total graphs, half of which is really good for reef keepers so I won't post them here, but you can see them in my photobucket account here:
http://s919.photobucket.com/albums/a...ING/?start=all

Or at nano-reef.com here:
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/inde...&#entry3365300

Some info on testing I am editing this post to include.

Quote:
Distance from the LED to the radiometer sensor was 12" in all of these cases; the sensor was not moved and the LEDs all used the exact same mounting bracket to hold them steady. I build 3 small wooden holders to hold them steady on their temporary heatsinks (1/2" thick, 1" square acrylic/Corian bricks with doublesided FastCap SpeedTape).

No secondary optics were used in any of the graphs listed above. Only 1 graph that has not yet been posted used optics, and it is a comparison of "with/without" optics on a Rebel 3-up. I am awaiting further data for this one.

Cree XPG and XPE LEDs, Bridgelux LEDs, and Rebel LEDs: Primary optic angle 120 degrees.
Cree XRE- 90 degrees.
Satistronics 3w, 10w, and 20w emitters: 140 degrees.

Here are the graphs we got for LED combinations I think will be useful for us.

Note this: I am fairly confident that ANY of the white LEDs in the graphs below will grow plants just fine so make your selection based on what you think will look good. Don't frustrate yourself over picking the right color. ----- that is, unless you are trying to get them to bloom or seed or something else that requires manipulation of color temp.




















COMBINATIONS OF WHITES OR WHITE/BLUE





Last edited by redfishsc; 05-09-2011 at 01:09 AM..
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Old 05-08-2011, 07:09 PM   #2
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And let me say my favorite graph was the last one (warm white, cool white, royal blue), and it's the one I will probably use on my 11g rimless build coming up soon.
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Old 05-08-2011, 08:12 PM   #3
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These look pretty good as far as growing plants, colors for our eyes?
Have to try them and see.
Looks promising though.
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Old 05-08-2011, 08:46 PM   #4
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These look pretty good as far as growing plants, colors for our eyes?
Have to try them and see.
Looks promising though.
Thanks, and I'm so glad you were the first person to respond here. You must have a Google auto-search set up here .

As for our eyes, I prefer the higher K temp look. Right now I'm using a reef-recycled 1:1 cool white/royal blue over my 11g rimless and even at equal power to both colors, it's not too bad. Too blue, but not terrible.

I prefer to dim the blues down to about 24% of the whites, but I suspect running them all at equal currents in a 1:1:1 (cool white, warm white, royal blue) will look very, very nice. We'll find out in a couple months when I change my LED setup.
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Old 09-30-2011, 05:06 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
Thanks, and I'm so glad you were the first person to respond here. You must have a Google auto-search set up here .

As for our eyes, I prefer the higher K temp look. Right now I'm using a reef-recycled 1:1 cool white/royal blue over my 11g rimless and even at equal power to both colors, it's not too bad. Too blue, but not terrible.

I prefer to dim the blues down to about 24% of the whites, but I suspect running them all at equal currents in a 1:1:1 (cool white, warm white, royal blue) will look very, very nice. We'll find out in a couple months when I change my LED setup.
No, I just look and am interested in LED's and the various drivers and types. I also dim the blues.....the bridge lux are surprisingly good.

I'll be redoing the various tanks I have with different arrays, 6000K Cree's and the 8000K mostly, maybe some 10K with the 6000's.
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Old 10-01-2011, 11:50 AM   #6
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No, I just look and am interested in LED's and the various drivers and types. I also dim the blues.....the bridge lux are surprisingly good.

I'll be redoing the various tanks I have with different arrays, 6000K Cree's and the 8000K mostly, maybe some 10K with the 6000's.

Yeah I would probably dim the blues a touch (maybe 30% lower) if I could with that 11g tank, but they are all on the same driver so I just live with it since it looks great anyhow.


If you are using 10K combined with anything, I recommend you try warm whites (3,000K). A warm white LED is much more "amber" than it is "ugly yellow" to the eye...... at least the Cree, Rebel, and Bridgelux are.

A 10K LED and 6000K LED are going to be remarkably similar in blue output, but the red/yellow/amber portion will be quite low, which means the tank will have an overall anemic look, if my predictions are right.


A 10K and warm white combo I imagine would look much more pleasing and be just as photosynthetically useful.
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Old 05-08-2011, 08:51 PM   #7
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Great post!!
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Old 05-08-2011, 09:43 PM   #8
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Absolutely wonderful! Thanks for putting in the time and effort both to run the tests and to graph it out so cleanly.

Not being an engineer, I'm still a bit lost on the y-axis of the graph; is that radiant flux? Can the y-axes be superimposed, or are they relative units? If they're a function of distance, at what distance were they measured?

Thanks again, and can't wait to see how your led setup looks once you get around to it. I'm also a blue-y kind of guy for lighting, so this is very useful stuff.
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Old 05-08-2011, 10:25 PM   #9
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Not being an engineer, I'm still a bit lost on the y-axis of the graph; is that radiant flux? Can the y-axes be superimposed, or are they relative units? If they're a function of distance, at what distance were they measured?

The y-axis is some unit of intensity. I will email my friend and double check, but I believe he said that it's basically a unit of intensity that the spectrometer uses but is otherwise an arbitrary unit.

I'll email him and see what he says. A PAR reading would be nicer though. We were not able to get PAR data due to time constraints (that would have taken a long time with all these LEDs).


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Originally Posted by audioaficionado View Post
I didn't see it among your photo bucket shots, but I'm trying to imagine the combination of CREE WW & CW LEDs. Great job getting this done and posted in a very useful format that we can get a good idea what the PAR curves are.

My mistake. The NW/WW combo was mislabled. I never did a WW/NW combo because they are so similar.

I fixed it in the post above. Here is the correct image.
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Old 05-09-2011, 12:35 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redfishsc View Post
The y-axis is some unit of intensity. I will email my friend and double check, but I believe he said that it's basically a unit of intensity that the spectrometer uses but is otherwise an arbitrary unit.

I'll email him and see what he says. A PAR reading would be nicer though. We were not able to get PAR data due to time constraints (that would have taken a long time with all these LEDs).





My mistake. The NW/WW combo was mislabled. I never did a WW/NW combo because they are so similar.

I fixed it in the post above. Here is the correct image.
A PAR meter is a quick easy thing and someone will get it some time at some point, that I am less worried about.

It can depend on the lens, the spread, driver and area etc more so than say T5 lights.........

You can predict the PAR somewhat based on the graph, but not that much really. You need the lens type, area, distance and pattern of lamps, this can vary all over the place.
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Old 05-09-2011, 01:03 AM   #11
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Quote:
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A PAR meter is a quick easy thing and someone will get it some time at some point, that I am less worried about.

It can depend on the lens, the spread, driver and area etc more so than say T5 lights.........

You can predict the PAR somewhat based on the graph, but not that much really. You need the lens type, area, distance and pattern of lamps, this can vary all over the place.
Tom, I don't believe anyone can predict the PAR at all based on those graphs. There is no absolute value assigned to the vertical axis, and, without that, the graphs are just more illustrations of what the manufacturers provide in their specs for each LED. I would infinitely rather see PAR numbers at various distances, both from the LED on center, and at distances from the center, and at 3 different LED currents. With those numbers it is easy to predict the PAR for any current, any number and spacing of the LEDs.

Unfortunately it also requires a set of those numbers for each optic that would be used, a 60 degree and a 40 degree at minimum. I'm really looking forward to seeing that type of data.
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Old 05-09-2011, 01:14 AM   #12
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I would infinitely rather see PAR numbers at various distances, both from the LED on center, and at distances from the center, and at 3 different LED currents. With those numbers it is easy to predict the PAR for any current, any number and spacing of the LEDs.

Unfortunately it also requires a set of those numbers for each optic that would be used, a 60 degree and a 40 degree at minimum. I'm really looking forward to seeing that type of data.
We did plan on doing that but were limited for time. Meanwhile, Joe has received some INCREDIBLY good news that he is now going to work for SeCore in Curacao. So he'll be flying off here in the next couple of weeks and we won't be doing any PAR data together.

There are other PAR meters around here though, just none that are as nice as the LiCore. They are all Apogee Quantums which is plenty sufficient for us, we don't need the decimal points that the LiCore can give. If I can get my hands on a cheap benchtop power supply that can hold these LEDs at a rock-steady current, I can probably get PAR data for some of the more common LED types.

No promises though. I wish I could promise
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Old 05-09-2011, 03:18 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
Tom, I don't believe anyone can predict the PAR at all based on those graphs. There is no absolute value assigned to the vertical axis, and, without that, the graphs are just more illustrations of what the manufacturers provide in their specs for each LED. I would infinitely rather see PAR numbers at various distances, both from the LED on center, and at distances from the center, and at 3 different LED currents. With those numbers it is easy to predict the PAR for any current, any number and spacing of the LEDs.

Unfortunately it also requires a set of those numbers for each optic that would be used, a 60 degree and a 40 degree at minimum. I'm really looking forward to seeing that type of data.
Hence all the other variables that mattered added after that was stated
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Old 05-10-2011, 01:23 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
Tom, I don't believe anyone can predict the PAR at all based on those graphs. There is no absolute value assigned to the vertical axis, and, without that, the graphs are just more illustrations of what the manufacturers provide in their specs for each LED. I would infinitely rather see PAR numbers at various distances, both from the LED on center, and at distances from the center, and at 3 different LED currents. With those numbers it is easy to predict the PAR for any current, any number and spacing of the LEDs.
The vertical axis is dependent on several things, such as the detector, grating, and A/D converter settings. Although it could be considered an arbitrary measurement, it gives a certain amount of information with respect to intensity as a function of wavelength.

I am actually quite familiar with the S2000, although I don't recall Ocean Optics being the manufacturer. This spectrometer used a PDA detector and had a choice of several different gratings depending on the desired application. If one assumes the integration time is adjusted appropriately, we have quite a bit of noise in these measurements. Some of these spectrographs have noise approaching 10% of the maximum intensity value, which is a little concerning. An interesting bit of experimental design info would involve how the light was collimated from the LED module into the spectrometer. This is a fiber-optic input (600um if I recall correctly) and would need to be lined up perfectly (machined fixture perfectly) if an external collimator was not used. Normalizing this data would make it a bit more useful, as it would become instrument-independent.

Different currents/distances and PAR measurements would yield some interesting results, however this assumes the LED performs in a linear manner, which many LEDs do not.
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Old 05-09-2011, 01:08 AM   #15
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You can predict the PAR somewhat based on the graph, but not that much really. You need the lens type, area, distance and pattern of lamps, this can vary all over the place.

Good points. I shall update the original post to include some of this, but I'll recap it here also.


Distance from the LED to the radiometer sensor was 12" in all of these cases; the sensor was not moved and the LEDs all used the exact same mounting bracket to hold them steady. I build 3 small wooden holders to hold them steady on their temporary heatsinks (1/2" thick, 1" square acrylic/Corian bricks with doublesided FastCap SpeedTape).



No secondary optics were used in any of the graphs listed above. Only 1 graph that has not yet been posted used optics, and it is a comparison of "with/without" optics on a Rebel 3-up. I am awaiting further data for this one.


Cree XPG and XPE LEDs, Bridgelux LEDs, and Rebel LEDs: Primary optic angle 120 degrees.

Cree XRE- 90 degrees.

Satistronics 3w, 10w, and 20w emitters: 140 degrees.
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