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CalmSeasQuest's 12G Long Iwagumi

28K views 74 replies 18 participants last post by  CalmSeasQuest 
#1 · (Edited)
My Journey From Reef to Planted...

For the better part of the past twenty years, I've kept reef tanks, mostly SPS. As did many, I got my start in aquaria with freshwater tanks. In my case it was 55 gallon tanks with Oscars and Jack Dempsys in my bedroom some 40 years ago. While I was certainly aware of planted tanks, I never really paid much attention, that is until a couple of weeks ago when I stumbled across Takashi Amano's builds at the Sumido Aquarium in Tokyo. These were different. While I knew they were an incredible and complex undertaking, they instilled a calmness and serenity that I found irresistible. I truly love my reef tanks, but I HAD to try this.

I have a few Mr. Aqua 12 longs and stands on hand that I had purchased for other reef builds that I imagined would provide nice proportions for an Iwagumi -style build, so I started my research which inevitable led me to TPT and many others 12 long builds. Enough of the backstory - here's the beginning...

This will be a peninsular build visible from 3 sides using the Mr. Aqua Elm stand stained ebony (just a hint of grain) and finished with Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane - Satin. All equipment will be hidden in the stand with only the clear drain, return, top off and CO2 lines visible.

  • Tank - Mr. Aqua 12 Long (36" X 8" X 9")
  • Lights - 23W TrueLumen Pro 8,000K, R2 LED Moonlights
  • CO2 - Aquarium Plants Carbon Doser, ADA Pollen Glass Type 3
  • Filtration - Eheim 2215 with Lily Pipe Outflow P-2 13mm and Lily Pipe Inflow MINI V-1 13mm, Cabochon Ruby check valve
  • ATO - YTBD (I travel a lot so an ATO is needed)
  • Substrate - Power Sand>Aqua Soil- NEW Amazonia Regular>Aqua Soil- NEW Amazonia - Powder
  • Hardscape - Ryuo stones
  • Flora - YTBD
  • Fauna - YTBD
  • Heater - Hydor ETH200 200W Inline (much larger than needed, but the smallest inline I could find.)
  • Controller - I have an Apex Aquacontroller managing two reef tanks in the room where this build will reside that can also manage/monitor this tank, I can easily add a temp probe (heater failsafe), pH probe (CO2 failsafe) and perhaps ORP if I can deduce some usage in freshwater IF I can figure out a way to hide them without having a sump. It will also manage lighting sunrise/sunset and Lunar cycles.
  • Test Kit - API
  • Water - Well water with 0TDS RO/DI available if needed
I have the tank, stand (waiting to be finished and assembled) CO2 tank regulator, Eheim 2215 and controller - The rest is being ordered with the ADA components coming from ADG. Due to my lack of planted experience, I decided to largely use ADA recommended equipment, supplies and dosing regimes understanding that while it surely could be done less expensively - it might help me avoid "nooby" mistakes.

I am slowly working my way through the tremendous differences and dichotomies between planted and reef and greatly appreciate any comments and/or advice on the overall plan and equipment chosen.

Thanks for following!
 
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#3 ·
Thanks!
I like the Ray IIs, except for having to rig a way to use 2 X 16". I've also been watching Interzoo to see if there's anything relevant coming. Lots of new pendant offerings too. I've got AIs. ReefBrite and Maxspect LEDs on hand, but none in the FW spectrum. I'll get something figured out by the time all this comes together :)
 
#8 ·
Thanks FG :)

Here are a couple shots of the Mr. Aqua Stand (not my photos)



While I like the minimalist style, the fit and finish are lacking. The stand requires a lot of filling and sanding prior to finishing to come anywhere near furniture grade. There are many finger joints visible hence my use of ebony stain....



Still, I think it will work well for my installation once "tweaked" a bit.

I'm hoping to finalize the equipment today and get things ordered. Frank at ADG indicated most of the ADA items currently out of stock should be arriving this Friday.

I'm still struggling to find a way (other than drilling the tank and adding a sump or adding a HOB filter) to use my controller and still be able to hide all probes. The temp probe could be hidden in the substrate(although the wire would still show.) There's really no way to completely hide the pH and ORP probes with my intended minimalist design. Although obviously they are not needed, it just seems a shame not to to utilize them as the controller sits within a few feet of the tank.

Another thought - I was among a few that pioneered the use of high power lasers for controlling marine pests and algae. I'll be curious to learn if there are any potential applications in planted tanks. I'm new to TPT and am not sure of the rules regarding outside links. If you want to learn more or see videos of the lasers in use, just Google "Use of Lasers in Controlling Pest Algae and Corals"
 
#9 ·
I made a call on the lighting...



Current USA 36" TrueLumen Pro in 8,000K


The tank mounting brackets raise the light about 1.5"

Based on the PAR data contained in samamorgan's LED PAR thread, a single unit at 23W should provide ~75 PAR. I expect the actual PAR numbers to be slightly higher than reported as the PAR measurements used were from tests conducted by AquaNerd using the marine version of the light. The Apogee MQ-200 PAR meter underestimates PAR when measuring very blue light by up to ~20%. I'll share PAR data once set up.

This should provide enough PAR and a very small footprint resulting in minimum distraction. The only think it doesn't provide is moonlighting, but that can be addressed separately.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Thanks bitFUUL - This should be a fun.

ADA order placed...

  • 101-507 Clear Parts Set 1
  • 104-041 Aqua Soil- NEW Amazonia (9 liters)- Powder Type 2
  • 104-012 Power Sand SPECIAL-M 6 liter 1
  • 104-111 Bacter 100 1
  • 105-021 Clear Super 1
  • 104-113 Tourmaline BC 1
  • 150-005 Penac P 200g (For Plants) 1
  • 150-003 Penac W 200g (Aquarium) 1
  • 102-1014 Pollen Glass Type 3 1
  • 103-001 Green Brighty STEP 1 500ml 1
  • 103-021 Brighty K 500ml 1
  • 103-101 Green Bacter 50ml 1
  • 103-104 ECA 50ml 1
  • 103-103 Phyton-Git 50ml 1
  • 103-102 Green Gain 50ml 1
  • 106-002 Pincettes M 1
  • RyStone Ryuo Stone 30 (I won't need anywhere near 30lbs, but it will provide for more options in stone selection)
  • 104-043 Aqua Soil- Africana (9 liters)- Powder Type 1
  • 105-300 Clear Hose (3m) 13mm 1
  • 102-512 Cabochon Ruby 1 (I've got lots of check valves, but this one is beautiful :))
  • 102-412 Lily Pipe Outflow P-2 13mm 1
  • 102-433 Lily Pipe Inflow MINI V-1 13mm 1
  • 102-701 Joint Glass 11mm 1
  • 103-302 Drop Checker 1
  • 102-011 NA Thermometer J-05CL (5mm) "Fahrenheit Ver." 1
Frank advised the container was due in Friday, so hopefully these will ship early next week. Lights will arrive tomorrow and I'll try and get the stand finished over the weekend.

Progress :)
 
#12 ·
Lights and a few other components came in today. I heard from Frank that the ADA order will ship Monday or Tuesday. I've got an idea on how to tie in my Apex and probes in a manner that won't visually impact the tank (I'll tinker with it this weekend to see if it's viable.)

And in a rare moment of clarity, I'm wondering what I thought I was going to do with a 200 watt heater on a 12 gallon tank :eek5: Into the cabinet full of unused/un-needed parts it goes.

My hope is to get the finish work done on the stand and get the tank and lights set up this weekend. :)
 
#15 ·
8,000K True Lumen Pro. At 23W with surface mounted emitters and without secondary optics, I'm hoping for decent spread and PAR ~80 on this tank.

May I know how much is the lighting strip cost?
$130 for the light, $45 for the power supply and $17 for the tank docking mounts.
 
#16 ·
8,000K True Lumen Pro. At 23W with surface mounted emitters and without secondary optics, I'm hoping for decent spread and PAR ~80 on this tank.

$130 for the light, $45 for the power supply and $17 for the tank docking mounts.
I'm stuck between the 12K and 8k now. Please give us the review when you get it :)
 
#18 ·
The Mr. Aqua stand turned out to be more work than anticipated. Virtually every piece needed work having gaps in many of the the board seams and finger joints that needed filling. I managed to get to get it filled, sanded, stained and 2 coats of Helmsman Spar Urathane applied.

The stand is finished in a wabi-sabi like style. The ebony finish appears aged or slightly distressed (which also hides some of the many flaws in the cabinet :))

I'm hoping 2 coats of Helmsman will suffice so I can get it assembled and the tank placed tomorrow.
 
#20 ·
I got the stand completed (finally.) The Mr. Aqua stand required so much finish work, I would have been far better off building one from scratch (not to mention the missing hardware.)

I only had a few moments, but I put the tank on the stand, grabbed a few quick photos and PAR measurements. I'm very pleased with the results. My guess at PAR was pretty close. If needed (largely depending on the aquascape) I can dim these to lower the PAR output. The quality of the light is better than I had expected.





I used an Apogee MQ-200...




These PAR measurements were taken in "open air". Based on my experience, they will differ little when measured with water in the tank. The fact that these lights use surface mounted emitters without any optics might provide different results through water - I'll remeasure once the tank is wet.

I had originally planned on setting this up as a peninsular, dividing the kitchen from the family room. I found that it's just to small and didn't provide balance to either room. Instead it's set up behind a couch on the opposite side of the room from the reef tanks.
 
#21 ·
A few updates...

Moved the the stand to the garage for a few days to allow it to "outgas" The fumes from the oil-based stain and Helmsman were still a bit much.

I don't like the way the black power cords are so noticeable on the TrueLumen Pro - especially since the fixture itself mostly disappears. I'm painting the the docking brackets white and ordered some vinyl stain to make all the exposed parts of the cords (above the black stand) white and hopefully less noticeable.

Decided on frosted glass (cling film) for the back of the tank

I've been thinking through the aquascaping (I guess it's "hardscape" in planted speak :)) I might vary a bit from my interpretation of a traditional Iwagumi design. I really love many of the the Manzanita/Moss trees that I've seen created and would like to try one. I found an interesting piece of Manzanita shaped in a manner I think I can emulate a cliff-side, wind-swept Cypress...


I still have to research the best mosses/plants to use in the creation of the tree.

I also stumbled across some petrified wood tailings that I think might have a couple interesting uses. I'm hoping my DFS-100 (diamond blade band saw used in Fragging corals) will make quick work of these allowing me to create custom sizes/shapes....



At some point I have to start thinking about a planting plan. Likely HC for most of the foreground. I want to maintain some negative space, so, from what I have learned thus far, the challenge will be balancing enough plant mass to avoid algae against - the minimalist design I have in my minds-eye. I'm also trying to come up with a balance between my water options (horrible, tannin-laced well water and 0 TDS RO/DI) with a livestock plan and how I might be able to include a couple shrimp species.

I've decided to hold of integrating my Apex until I get some experience with the tank wet and see just what is needed or desired. I do have a couple extra Cole-Parmer peristaltic pumps that could easily be used to automate the top-off.

One other observation for anyone considering the the Mr Aqua stand - It has a very small interior with only ~7" usable depth. It will take some finagling just to get the 2215 and it's water lines in there.

Should be fun :)
 
#22 ·
A few shots of the completed stand. The finish has a "tortured" look to it - Just image the resulting offspring if a black-lacquer baby grand piano mating with a wooden shipping pallet...

Yup, that pretty much describes it :)







The shelf has to be removed in order for the 2215 and 5# CO2 bottle to fit. While this is not a type of finish I would have normally chosen, somehow it seems appropriate for a Wabi-Sabi style cabinet. The shelf has to be removed in order for the 2215 and 5# CO2 bottle to fit. While this is not a type of finish I would have normally chosen, somehow it seems appropriate for a Wabi-Sabi style cabinet. The only somewhat disappointing part is that many hours or work went into creating this and it ends up looking like it was made from a left-over shipping crate :icon_eek:
 
#24 ·
Thanks tenzero - I'll get used to it ;)

I finished testing my water sources this morning. Still trying to decide my options. I was hoping that between my well water, RO-only water (for drinking and ice cubes) and zero TDS RO/DI (Reefs) I would have something close to what I needed for this tank. In looking at the results, I'm not so sure...

Water Parameters - API Liquid Tests

------Well----Sink RO----RO/DI (aged)
pH --7.6-----6----------6.4
Gh --< 1---< 1----------0
KH --20------2----------0
TDS 310-----21---------0

If I'm interpreting this correctly, it looks like my best option will be to buffer the RO/DI? I was hoping I'd have an out-of-the-tap option :(

I've been trying to come up with a shrimp plan, and after reviewing the individual species needs and pairing down what I like - Initially I thought I would target 7.2~7.4pH, 4~5KH, 6~8GH. It appears that would that will provide for the greatest options in shrimp species BUT - It appears that most plants including my intended hc carpet need lower pH levels. Am I better off targeting lower pH and going with CRS like values?

I'm hoping others can provide some advice and offer up recommendations as to specific products or processes. I think I'll try posting this in the water parameters section to see if I can get someone with more experience to assist in coming up with a plan :)
 
#27 ·
Thanks, I received the petrified wood on yesterday and it's amazing. I'm really excited to see how what I have in my "minds eye" translates into this build.
Nice stand!
Thanks - Initially I was less than pleased, but it's growing on me. One challenge is it will be a tight fit. I got the 2215, CO2 bottle with the AP Carbon Doser in the cabinet and I'm hoping to have space to install a top-off tank. It's going to be a tight fit. I also placed a thin piece of a dense foam yoga mat below the tank. It's probably not needed on a tank this small, but as I've used it on every other build - old habits die hard.

I made a bit of progress today. I managed to get the sections of the lighting power cords that will be exposed painted white. It really helps blend them into the background. They will also be further hidden by running them along the backside of the TrueLumen and down the back corners of the tank - they should all but disappear. I also applied the etching to the back of the tank. I'm very pleased...







Hopefully the ADA order will come in this week and I get started on the hardscape.
 
#28 ·
Another decision - I was leaning toward not bothering to incorporate my Apex controller on this tank but - as I've got a lot to learn about freshwater parameters and want to create an environment conducive for shrimp - I've decided to bite the bullet and add the Apex. I'll need to order a long Aquabus cable (basically just a long male/male USB cable) another EB8 and an PM1. That will provide 8 controllable circuits, temp and pH monitoring. It will also provide the piece of mind of having a fail-safe for the heater.

Now I just have to figure out how to hide the probes. I can probably bury the temp probe, but the pH probe will probably be seen At least it's a pretty shade of blue :)
 
#30 ·
Thanks GV, I'm really enjoying this build thus far.

I thought some might enjoy this - Below is an excerpt of a post I wrote in one of my favored reefing forums. In it, I try to explain my first impressions (and how wrong they were) about planted and what I've learned thus far in the journey...


...I'll admit the planted learning curve is steeper than expected. I incorrectly had the expectation that for anyone successfully keeping Reefs, planted tanks would be relatively simple - Wrong. In marine we take a few things for granted namely water/nutrient levels. We have it relatively easy - just start with 0 TDS water and the salt mix and feeding the fish takes care of most else - maybe some 2-part or CA/Alk adjustments but they are easy to measure and control. In fact, we spend more time trying to remove nutrients form the water column. In planted, pH, Kh and Gh levels are often managed for specific species, as are various nutrients which cannot be easily measured/monitored and there are a thousand different ways to do so - EI, ADA, PPS, PPMD.. plus dozens of other dry and liquid dosing schemes AND the substrate is often another variable that has to be accounted for.

The use of technology in monitoring/controlling all of this appears to be less often used in FW/planted. This is perhaps due to the costs, but also that planted tanks can be very simple - heck often a heater is not even used. As most planted builds don't use sumps instead choosing canister filters finding a place for equipment (probes, heaters, ATO...) is another challenge. Lighting - for plants, 8,000K is about ideal, but not very much. Anything higher than about ~60PAR is considered high light. Perhaps the biggest dichotomy of all is CO2 - In reefing we work diligently to remove CO2 from the water column in an effort to support pH levels (degassing calcium reactor effluent, CO2 scrubbers...) In planted, you intentionally add TONS of CO2 as a carbon source for the plants and to suppress CO2 levels, bubbling the stuff directly into the water column, with many tanks running with pH levels of ~6.

Learning curve aside, there are some wonderful differences in planted and freshwater over marine tanks,

Cost - Virtually every facet of planted is significantly less expensive than maintaining a saltwater tank. Fish typcially range from $2-$10 with plants about the same. Many complain about the cost of ADA products (one of the preeminent brands in planted), but even those pale in comparison to the costs paid by reefers in virtually every way.

More relaxed and less Hype - The general feeling seems a bit more relaxed. No name games, "Limited edition" plants or the elevated pricing associated with it (I fully admit to being part of the name game having a Frag tank full of "gotta have" corals.) Because many get their start in FW, there are more kids involved in the hobby. It's refreshing seeing someone ponder or save up to purchase a $3 plant :)

We're not in Kansas anymore Toto....

I would wager that when many (perhaps most) reefers think of a planted tank - they picture an aquarium simply full of plants and perhaps a few guppies or tetras. I too largely had this image hearkening back to my youth and keeping freshwater fish. Let me show you how I see planted tanks now (1080P/full screen is best)...

Top Planted Tanks of 2011

Here's an image that portrays the "style" that I'm striving to acheive...


So much of this is foreign to a long-time reefer, but I'll admit I'm enjoying every new challenge :)
 
#33 ·
I've been thinking about the hardscape - specifically the substrate design. With the regular and powder Aquasoil and Powersand I'm thinking it might be tough to rescape the million times it will take to finally come up with something I'm satisfied with so...

I dug out one of the other 12 longs I have on hand and I set up a "sandbox" to play in. I used Arogonite left over from a reef build and some rocks on hand (still waiting for the ADA shipment) to begin practicing - getting a feel for the scale and how to handle the elevation changes. Nothing I'm ready to share photos of yet, but at least I'm getting a bit of "scaping" experience before I have to do it for real.
 
#34 ·
I completed a mock-up that I think I like. Keep in mind, that nothing except the petrified wood are the actual items that will be used in the tank. I just used some misc rocks, Aragonite and a random piece of Manzanita to create the mock-up. I also believe I'll be able to create steeper gradients with the Aquasoil then shown in the mock-up.



I tried to emulate a wind or current sweeping right to left that would result in the tree being so contorted. This includes trying to guesstimate where sand would be eroded away and where eddy currents might pile the sand higher (windward side of stones.)





I'm struggling with the petrified wood - I can't decide if they should be more random, as if a natural deposit - or as shown, placed in a way emulating a wall. The individual pieces will be less evident as the Aquasoil will be deeper with a steeper cliff (I ran out of Aragonite.) The smaller pieces will likely be hidden entirely by plants.




I toyed with creating a sand pathway separating the 2 environs, but I think less may be more.

This is my first attempt at a planted tank - any and all feedback is really appreciated
 
#36 ·
That's the plan, although I'm not sure if I'm going to use that specific piece. I've got a bunch coming from Tom Barr that might be better :)

If I end up using the one shown in the photos, I'll do some reshaping and add a few more branches.
 
#37 ·
I am loving your attention to detail. Nice to know the Mr. Aqua stands need some work, I have be contemplating one of their tanks and though I am sure I can build a stand, it's hard for me to actually transport material to do so. I will just paint mine.

That light is very slick, and the numbers look good. I think you may want to dim it however, not because they are too much, it just will be easier for your first try with planted tanks. A around 40 at the substrate would be fine, not that I have ever used a part meter or measured my tanks but from research, that seems about where my lights were on my easiest tanks (with co2). Then up it if things are going well.

Love your other touches like the background as well.

Look foreward to this one. Hardscape looks pretty good, incredibly good for your first time with a planted tank. I know the "dark side" takes scaping to but this has potential you may not even be aware of. One word of advice though, don't get too caught up with your first scape, just let it be and tweek as needed. I still do this, it's more relaxing and I end up with a better result. IMO, it's ready to go hardscape wise.

Good luck and welcome to the planted world.
 
#38 ·
Thanks Matt - I really appreciate the feedback!

Installing the docking feet on the lights raised it 1 1/2" and slightly lowered the PAR to 69 in the center and ~60 on the edges. I have a dimmer for it as well and I think I'll take your advice and dim it back to ~40 on the substrate (especially considering the elevated ends would get blaster with PAR.) It seems many struggle with algae and I'm trying to avoid whatever mistakes I can. As there will be only plants in this tank for some time, I'm also hoping a freshly-filled 5lb CO2 canister will aid is "gassing" any algae into oblivion :)

As for the Mr. Aqua stand - I have another in a box but I'd be tempted to just build a stand if another is needed and avoid the hassles.

Thanks again for your comments.
 
#39 ·
Trust me, the levels you are getting right now are perfectly fine (well, I haven't had a tank that shallow but should be fine), I just recommend going on the low side of medium light at when you first start. Then raise it up as you go. Lower light is easier to deal with in general but it's extremely easier on a new tank when your plants are still adapting, be it from shipping or emmersed growth, or differences in lighting/co2 conditions. When you are content that you have good balance (no algae issues), up the lights a bit, then again.

You may want to go higher off the bat if you have colorful plants but if they are growing well enough in lower light and just are not colorful enough, that color will come back. I have yet to find many plants that absolutely require high light to grow, though more than a few will do better, and have better coloration, once you get into the higher light spectrum.

Other's may say 40 is too low with CO2, or you don't need to go that low, I just am going off my personal experiences.
 
#40 ·
I'm really liking my "Sandbox" It lets me play (learn) without worrying about mixing substrates or being in a rush to get things planted. I think I'm getting closer. I shortened the petrified wall and moved the individual pieces closer together. Some of the bases (hidden) still need to be shaped a bit to allow them to "key" closer together. I think this is looking more natural and will look much better when mostly buried in Aquasoil and a larger drop-off...





I also added more emphasis to wind and erosion premised elevation changes. I'm excited to see what this will look like once carpeted. The balance on the left stones still isn't right, but it probably makes more sense to wait until the Ryuo stones arrive...



It's just as well the ADA shipment is running late - I bet many hours will be spent on adding-to and shaping the moss tree. :biggrin:
 
#41 ·
After much deliberation I decided to remove the Manzanita tree and petrified wood. Although I like both very much and will use them in a future build, I felt (and so did others) that trying to include both concepts in such a small tank ended up with each detracting form the other. So back to the drawing board...

I've looked at so many tanks, trying to get a feel for the balance and what defines a "good scape" Because these tanks are so long, I wanted to take advantage of the opportunity for elevation changes. Here's my concept...











Again, the rocks and Aragonite substrate are just place-holders until the Ryuoh stones and Amazonian arrive. I like this concept as the elevation changes provide natural environs for different plants (i.e varying carpets.)

The ratios still aren't quite right as the Aragonite doesn't stack well and I think the second rise needs to be "Softened" a bit. While I "think" I like it, I'd really appreciate any and all comments - especially in thinking through how it might impact the planting plan. Specifically, I'm wondering,

  • How the rises and valleys will impact flow and CO2 dispersal.
  • Selecting plants to accentuate the front and back sides of the slopes (i.e. HC and UG?) I'd like to keep the number of plant species very limited, and provide subtle variations in carpet.
  • Is there an opportunity using both Amazonian Regular and Powder to provide contrast or varying scale/distance (or simply use the powder as a 100% top coat to improve the scale?)
  • Creating these elevations will seemingly require a lot of substrate in a small water-volume tank. I'm curious to see what it does to the water parameters, and as a result which shrimp species will be able to be kept in this tank.
Thanks all!
 
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