Could someone please post pics of the filtration system on the fluval spec V. I like how it is all hidden on one end of the tank and would like to try and building something similar but on a 12g or 20g long.
any pics of exacaly how it works would be apreciated.
its cascading, so there is an overflow into the media section, the first compartment, and then it either overflows, or fills from the bottom into the pump section. so both have water. its basically an overflow box if you want to google how those work.
**I personally don't have one, so if anyone else with actual experience needs to correct me, please do.
You're basically correct on the overflow, but there is also a small intake a few inches above the bottom on the media side. I'm not sure why the intake is there, because the overflow would work just fine without it. My tank is a Spec V, I'm not sure about the original Spec.
I'm thinking of the spec v. I was debating getting one but I think it would be cool to build a bigger version of a similar design. Could you snap a pic of your overflow/filter area?
The only thing I dislike about the filter on my spec is that the water in the pump compartment stays pretty stagnant. So when I don't have my breeder box hooked up I run an air pump in there to get the water moving. Also I plugged the small hole near the bottom. If I had to guess they made that as a fail-safe in case the water level gets so low it doesn't reach the overflow part.
I stuffed a heater into my pump compartment, and then I cut a ~1/4" hole in the outflow line to keep the water level higher in the pump compartment for the heater. There is definitely no stagnation in that chamber on mine, even when I turn the flow all the way down (which is how I will likely keep it).
I don't know how the water in the pump section would get stagnant since water is constantly flowing through there at 70 or 80 gph. Unless you mean that there is no surface movement, which really shouldn't matter since the water has already been filtered.
That hole near the bottom is to keep water flowing to the pump in case the water evaporates too fast and the water line gets below the intake grating on top. Because of the hole in the lid, if you heat the water much warmer than room temperature (our house is cold in winter so water is about 8 degrees warmer than room) water can evaporate really quicky. At least with the little hole at the bottome your pump doesn't run dry and burn out.
I just got the Spec V and I love it! I am using the Fluval 25w heater, it is a little pricey, but it really fits in with the decor. The water flow by the water pump is a lot lower then i would have liked, so I just placed it in the corner. Can barely tell its there.
I have a Hydor 25w into spec 3 in that secret compartment. The thermometer shows the right temp. Is it most efficient? Probably not. Does it work? Yep.
I have been running a Hydor 25w heater in the small compartment for over a year now. If you cut a small hole in the return tube, it works great. The only way I can see people having problems is if they don't cut the hole for circulation. I plugged the hole in the bottom to make the water go over the overflow more. You have to keep an eye on the water level mover, but the surface skimming is a lot better. When I go on vacation, I just fill the tank up all the way to prevent the water level from getting too low. You can see the top of the heater through the frosted glass on the right side of the picture.
There's no need to cut any holes (or plug any). It CAN work that way, but it's certainly not necessary. Lots of people in the main Spec thread have heaters in that compartment with zero modifications made, and they're doing fine.
In my experience and research, would say that you CAN run the Spec with no mods, but the skimming is lacking and the heater compartment does not get a lot of flow.
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