Originally Posted by Betowess
Wow, you guys are setting a new standard for plumbing. It looks tidy, earthquake proof and marvelous documentation. But I will never have the balls to drill into a new 120 gallon tank or larger. I'll have to order that and follow your plan to the T on the bulkheads and plumbing the underside.
Thanks for sharing!
One query... And maybe I missed this in the thread, but how did you arrive at the size of the PVC for the manifold? And have you lost much flow or thrust compared to the straight Fluval 304? TIA
PVC size? A shot in the dark, I have a bazillion 1.5 inch bio balls and they fit perfect in 1.5" pvc, so I tried 1.5 inch first. It worked so I made more,then I modified it to accept a PH probe when that idea hit me.
Originally Posted by fshfanatic
That is incredible. Nice work. How much does it effect the flow in your fluval? I am asking because I have a 304 as well that is acting strictly as a surface skimmer and was considering making a reactor for it. I dont however, want to restrict the flow too much..
I use 2 Fluval 304s on my 55 gallon project but they only have one piece of equipment on each filter, i.e., one Fluval on the reactor and one Fluval on the heater. I thought the flow would be pretty restricted due to all the turns and tubing. The first return I used was a reducing nozzle, bad idea, the flow was so strong the jet shot across the room. After the butt chewing and clean up I put flared nozzles on and finally decided on a 2.5 inch flare. When I set up this 37 with the manifold, I used the same flare and couldn't ask for better flow. The water causes just enough turbulence on the surface then hits the front glass, turns and follows the sides to the back of the tank while going towards the substrate. I am trying to figure out how to video the flow, it can be seen during feeding but the video camera does not pick it up. BTW, a valuable lesson: When checking flow characteristics of your DIY system, do it in the garage!