With that water I'd go for the GH Booster, in case you need to control pH drop from CO2 addition, or add some calcium.
I'd skip the Iron Chelate DPTA. You may choose to experiment with it later, but it is by no means a necessity, and any iron deficiency can be corrected by increasing CSM+B. I find it far more useful in hard water tanks with no CO2, where the high pH quickly renders the less stable Iron Chelate EDTA found in the CSM+B useless. In my tanks fitting this description, it required *tripling* CSM+B to fully compensate; as opposed to a much smaller addition of Iron DPTA along with the standard amount of CSM+B.
And I'd consider Potassium Sulfate, in case you want to add Potassium separately without adding either Nitrate or Phosphate. If you have a heavy fish load, and feed what the fish will eat in a minute or two daily like me, you may not need to add any Nitrate or Phosphate at all. In some of my tanks, dosing unmodified EI was causing Nitrates to peak at a whopping 140ppm right before the weekly water change, which was causing stunted plant growth.