Originally Posted by byee
That's well thought out LED fixture you have built.
Looking forward to your reply!
Thanks, byee. My decision to build my own LED lighting was partly due to the high electric bill. Also, I really wanted to build it because it seemed like a lot of fun, which it was. I'll try to answer your questions, but I only have experience with this build and another Cree XPG build, so hopefully, someone else will fill in any gaps.
Why XML not the CREES or Bridgelux LED's?
I decided to get the Cree XML LEDs because I read that they are the most efficient in terms of lumens per amp. Also, I' read that the Cree XML LEDs did not "wear out" like other LEDs because it didn't get as hot (hence the improvement in efficiency as well). Being that Cree has a good reputation, I was very impressed with the specs for the XML.
Why the 2 to 1 ratio CW to NW?
Now that the lights have been built, I wish I went with only CW LEDs. I thought that I needed the NW to provide a "fuller" spectrum for my plants, but the NW LEDs are less bright and they don't seem to really make too much of a difference visually. Hopefully someone will give us their insight on this.
Do you know if the MW-90D-48 will work with your setup? How do you determine which MW LED driver is required for the setup?
I'm not familiar with this driver, but I can tell you how I ended up with what I got. I needed to consider cost, current, voltage, efficiency, and dimming capability. Trying to get all these parameters right was not easy. I quickly found out that many of the drivers were simply not available or were long-lead items. Also, some of the drivers with the "best" fit were too expensive (~$100 each). Being impatient and cost conscious, I quickly narrowed my choices to what was available. Since I divided my LEDs into three separate strings, I decided that each string should have its own driver, which basically determined my current and voltage (~2 amps and 24 to 27 volts). I tried to get the best efficiency, but I really had no choice in this since there were very few options. So, the only thing left was the dimming capability and cost. That is how I ended up with ELN-60-27P (I used ELN-30-27P for my Cree XPG build). And the cost was acceptable too. These drivers are satisfactory, but these may not be the most "perfect" drivers.
Where did you purchase your extruded aluminum pieces from?
I got my aluminum pieces from Amazon. I listed the items I used below. This worked out well, but there is a wide selection of heat sinks.
80 25 SERIES 25-5013 50mm X 13mm T-SLOTTED EXTRUSION x 1220mm
80/20 10 SERIES 1010 1" X 1" T-SLOTTED EXTRUSION x 48"
80/20 10 Series 4265 2-HOLE SLOTTED CORNER BRACKET
80/20 Inc 10 Series 3321 Bolt Kit 1/4-20 X .687" FBHSCS And Economy Slide-In T-Nut
BTW, how are you liking you Typhoon? I've just finished reading the Typhoon thread on another site. Will be submitting an order for the PCB's in the next couple of days.
I have not done too much with the Typhoon yet. Unfortunately, I shorted something on the board accidentally, so I need to replace it.
But it was working fine until I broke it. I was hoping to change the code to do multiple on/off cycles, but I had no time to play with it before I broke it.
Hopefully, I answered some of your questions to your satisfaction. Let me know if you have anything else you want to ask.