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Frank's Planted Tank How-To Mini Novel - The Mini S Returns! New Layout

385K views 1K replies 153 participants last post by  skarpy 
#1 · (Edited)
This Journal is dedicated to Khoa Pham. The first person I ever taught Nature Aquarium to - and the first real customer I ever had. May the teachings in this Journal bring the same joy to others as it did to him.

Cryptkeeper54 converted the first half of the thread into an eBook available for download here, the eBook contains the final photo of the Mini M layout which the first half of the thread covers - which has not yet been published anywhere else, so be sure to check out he gorgeous HD photograph!

Follow Me On:

Twitter: http://twitter.com/iaquascape
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Tumblr: http://wazeter.tumblr.com

Instagram: @fwazeter

Communicating with me outside Social Platforms:

Email: fxiv@me.com
TEL: 832-459-5172

Table of Contents:

Opening ACT 1 - New Layout Mayhem!

1. Introduction - Page 1

2. Getting Started - Step 1 - Page 2, Post 19

3. Setting the Substrate - Step 2 - Page 2, Post 25

4. Penac Pearling - Page 5, Post 64

5. Laying out a hardscape - Stone Arrangement: Step 3 - Page 5, Post 73

6. Basic Maintenance - Page 5, Post 74

7. Philosophy - Enjoying the Process - Page 6, Post 83

8. Planting and Planning for a Mixed Carpet: Step 4 - Page 7, Post 91

9. First Month Filter Setup & Day 5 maintenance: Step 5 - Page 8, Post 111

10. Aquarium Data - Equipment Used - Page 10, Post 143

11. How Co2 is distributed by water with a diffuser - Page 11, Post 160

12. Trimming Carpet Plants - Page 13, Post 191

13. End of Week 1 - Page 13, Post 195

14. Modifying the Layout - Removing an unnecessary element - Page 16, Post 231

15. Trimming Riccia - Page 18, Post 269

16. Size: Large vs. Small Aquaria, thoughts - Page 19, Post 280

17. A word on the International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest - Page 19, Post 284

18. End of Week 2 - Page 20, Post 286

19. Introduction to A New Way of Thinking: Why what you may have learned could be wrong - Page 21, Post 312

20. A New Way of Thinking: There is No Such Thing as Multiple Methods - Page 22, Post 325

21. A New Way of Thinking: Invalidating the Theory of "High Tech" - Page 22, Post 328

22. The NO B.S. Introduction to "The Method" - Page 23, Post 334

23. NO B.S. Method - The Most Important Post I've Ever Written - Page 23, Post 345

24. Removing Diatom Algae and Week 3 Tank Update - Page 24, Post 359

25. End of Week 3 - Week 1, 2, 3 Comparison Overview - Page 25, Post 371

26. The Method - Principle One: Malthusian Organisms - Page 25, Post 374

27. THE CHALLENGE! - Page 26, Post 382

28. ADA's 20th Anniversary (Takashi Amano Story) & Making a Small Layout Adjustment - Page 29, Post 431

29. The Method - Principle Two: The Law of Minimums - Page 31, Post 456

30. The Method - Principle Three: The Cyclical Nature of the Aquarium - Page 32, Post 471

31. Week 4/5 Celebration Video Coverage! The Beauty of Riccia Fluitans! - Page 33, Post 486

32. The final published shot of the aquarium before contest entry - Page 35, Post 514

BEGIN INTERMISSION! Fun Stuff in Between Works!

33. Trimming Riccia Video - Page 36, Post 538

34. Removing BBA manually - Page 39, Post 571

35. Aquatic Poetry?! And 720p video of the Layout - Page 39, Post 579

36. Frank Wazeter on Blog Talk Radio! Aquascaping Discussion. - Page 40, Post 588

ACT TWO: Enter LED Lighting Technology and a brand new layout!

37. The Arrival of Nature Aquarium's First Ever LED light: AQUASKY!Page 45, Post 664

38. AQUASKY's Premiere - Solar Mini M retired, AQUASKY on a fresh canvas - Page 45, Post 670

39. The Tear Down of "San Marcos River Summer," and the Creation of the New Layout - Page 46, Post 683

40. Maintenance Regime on the Mini M! - Page 47, Post 692

41. Grow out of the Mini M - Days 1-7 Comparisons between Old and New - Page 47, Post 704

42. The 60-P Developing with it's semi-permanent Cameo Appearance! - Page 47, Post 705

43. What has beautiful inlay designs and optimal functionality? ADA Anniversary Premium Goods! - Page 48, Post 712

44. Getting rid of that bothersome algae on the glass - the easy way. - Page 48, Post 715

45. Pencilfish Hunting in Riccia & the 60-P props back up again! - Page 49, Post 726

46. Autumnal Hues with the Beautiful Rotala Colorata - Page 49, Post 733

47. Sad News - The passing of my first student. Rest in Peace my friend. - Page 50, Post 736

48. When stem plants become brilliant and add dynamism to the layout -60-P - Page 50, Post 746

49. Time Elapse and Algae Killing in three days in the 60-P - Page 51, Post 751

50. Taking down Khoa Pham's aquarium & Mini M update - Page 51, Post 753

51. It's all in the Details - adjustments on the Mini M with Unzan Stone - Page 52, Post 767

52. Coming up next - the beautiful Microrasbora Kubotai! - Page 52, Post 776

53. Microrasbora Kubotai, subtle coloration adds an incredible dynamic to the layout. - Page 53, Post 782

54. Nano Fish Acclimation Guide! How to get 100% survival rates with ease! - Page 53, Post 789

55. Bringing the Layout to life with Fish - going from "cool" to "lost in the aquarium." - Page 54, Post 797

56. Mystic Photograph of the Kubotai + eBook Remastering of Act 1 - Page 55, Post 819

57. Ranking #127 in the IAPLC (international aquatic plant layout contest) and personal critique by Mr. Amano - an epic end to a great layout. - Page 58, Post 865


ACT I Finale Shot - #127 IAPLC 2012


ACT II Finale



"How do I create a beautiful mixed carpet in my planted tank?"

If you've ever wondered how to create a mixed carpet for your planted aquarium or amazed at how Amano does it, through the course of this thread you will learn how to grow just that.

Sometimes, the task can seem impossible or overwhelming. So before I really begin to share these secrets, allow me to bring you along my history and development with planted tanks. You will see how you can create a fantastic layout, even if you are starting from humble origins.

Sit back, relax and read every word carefully, because it all starts with a vision:

My Background History:

At this point, I've thoroughly mastered growing single carpets as can be illustrated here:




Of course, this would also include your foreground and background stuff (for example, HC and hair grass), as you can see a relatively old example here:



That one kind of brings me back. Dollface might hate that photograph.

An older (yet more recent example) of an aquarium I never quite did take a finished photograph of:



That one taught me quite a few lessons about riccia: you see those bald stones? that was from a few pieces of riccia that were "spoiled" when they arrived, Lesson: always use the greenest and freshest riccia!

Something Important to Know: I will always recommend that you master growing one species of plant at a time, for example: an iwagumi that's all hair grass or hc, or microsword etc.

Why? because this will give you the greatest skill in manipulating, shaping the plants growth, while knowing at what speed it grows and what it's nutrient requirements are. Think of it like breaking down a math problem into easy, simple to digest and understand components in order to solve a very complex problem (in this case, the mixed carpet).

Along the way there have also been some mishaps and failures:

How about this blast from the past (2008? 2009? I think):



This was my first ever attempt at a mixed carpet. It went surprisingly well, but I never did try to that extent again. See a close up from Glosso and HC growing together:



Oh, and of course, there was the first iwagumi:



I didn't even remember that somehow I had managed to get Riccia to intertwine with HC in that layout (e.g. it was a Random A$$ Accident) :



Oh boy! Look at that algae! Honestly I think that accidental mixing has been my best attempt yet...3-4 years ago...

And finally, there was my very, very first planted tank:



Man, how embarrassing is that?

There have been some other successes and failures over the course, but honestly? The failures teach you the most. The successes just give you some extra confidence.

Which brings me to some other examples:



I probably should have spent some time polishing that one up a bit. Now that I look back on it, the sparser growth actually creates a nice effect for what I was trying to achieve.



This was the very first layout I had worked on at Aquarium Design Group: and also the first time I had done -anything- with driftwood. I wish I had taken a full shot of this tank then.



With that said, what's the next objective? Mastering the Mixed Carpet.

Before I delve more into How-To and the fun of keeping the journal going, let me preface:

There will be mistakes. There will be frustration. And my intent is to teach you how to master these principles so that you can learn quicker than me. This is why I've had a lot of fun going over some of my past layouts, success, failures, embarrassments and all.

So, without further ado, here is the newest layout I've set up at home:





I promise not to bore you with equipment details: I'll only share them when necessary and when it's valuable and worth your time to know.

Before we go on further, I have a homework assignment for you:

Important Exercise:Visualize your ultimate layout you want for your aquarium. Now, picture yourself successfully planting each individual plant, and then watch the plants grow. Imagine problems coming up and solving the problem. Watch as the aquascape evolves from freshly planted to completed, and imagine how you feel when you've accomplished the task.

Now sit back, subscribe and continue to watch for updates to take the next step, and the next exercise. Make sure you catch me on my next major update where I'll teach you the fundamentals behind setting the substrate, and if you're lucky, the arrangement of the stones!

P.S. if you've found these techniques valuable, help share the information with new comers by linking back here in your own journals when you use my techniques!

Member Highlights! Check out these people and their awesome work:

Here are some of my students who are also members of TPT (message me if you aren't listed and should be, or if you are listed and feel you shouldn't or don't want to be!) :

These people all share a passion for planted aquariums and have had great success moving forward! Cheer them on as they work their way towards being masters of the planted tank universe.

Khoa N. Pham -



http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=122232

fplata -






http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=181063



freph -





http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=181281

mluk27 -





http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=174106&highlight=mluk27

Dave Allen -



http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=184547

Dollface -





http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=170180

pejerrey -





http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=169143

ozydego -





http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=181009

dantra - http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=161640

frrok -



http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=160093

flyinghellfish -



http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/member.php?u=49336

orchidman -



http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=188790

Brian MC - http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/member.php?u=51675

2wheelsx2 -



http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/member.php?u=6864

Jeff5614 -





http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=107781

Lludu - http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/member.php?u=52328

Zeldar -



http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=186330
 
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#103 ·
Keeping in line with the spirit of having things updated on the fly:



Riccia growth on Day 4: It's beginning to perk up and go vertical (a good thing).

Speaking of Riccia, it's an interesting plant: here's a species which is basically really moody. I've seen Riccia change color hues, growth appearance, etc. All based on where it is in the light cycle for the day and whether or not you gave it compliments when the lights turned on or not.

P.S. if you've found these techniques valuable, help share the information with new comers by linking back here in your own journals when you use my techniques!
 
#108 ·
Keeping in line with the spirit of having things updated on the fly:



Riccia growth on Day 4: It's beginning to perk up and go vertical (a good thing).

Speaking of Riccia, it's an interesting plant: here's a species which is basically really moody. I've seen Riccia change color hues, growth appearance, etc. All based on where it is in the light cycle for the day and whether or not you gave it compliments when the lights turned on or not.
Any reason for the one riccia stone on the rock there? EDIT. looks more like moss. I can't Id it. Lol
 
#105 ·
I am in complete agreement here, and thank you for the compliment.

I'll give you a hint of my scapes to follow for a while: they will involve riccia.

P.S. if you've found these techniques valuable, help share the information with new comers by linking back here in your own journals when you use my techniques!
 
#107 ·
riccia looks great, and IMO is the best thing to judge CO2 (better even then a drop checker).
but its such a HASSLE to keep in large amounts. trimming it often, and then when the bottom is rotten, retying the healthy top part. and all the floating riccia bits...
good luck.
 
#112 ·
Hey gnod, I don't have too much experience with "mini" riccia. Riccia has many different forms it comes in, but they all largely have the same nutrient & planting (i.e. floats) requirements and habits.

P.S. if you've found these techniques valuable, help share the information with new comers by linking back here in your own journals when you use my techniques!
 
#111 ·
So, I got to Day 5 yesterday of the water change cycle, and upon getting home I noticed the water was a little brown. Not super-brown, kind-of-sort-of tannin-ish-but-not-really color. I should further clarify to you about the brown color: more of a slight tint than an actual brown. In otherwords, not perfectly clear water.

What this signaled to me, is that I should be preparing for a diatom outbreak sooner or later (perfectly fine) and that any plants in the emmersed form are currently breaking down and melting (which you can see visibly behind the main rock), a totally normal process.

Because I didn't think ahead and only started to do a water change, rather than getting a picture of the tank with the slight coloration difference (which you probably wouldn't be able to see in a photo anyway), I got you an ever-famous-frank-bucket shot.



If you're feeling particularly motivated you can compare this photo side by side with the other bucket shot, showing the differences in water.

I drained the tank down a bit to:



Pro Tip: Exposure to air helps to kill some algae types. In general it's a pretty good preventative maintenance strategy to drain as much as you can on at least a monthly basis.

To spurn some extra aeration on fill-up: I turned the filter on at this water level:



Doing this as a regular practice helps to rapidly oxygenate the water during a water change, which is healthy for the overall environment (due-to-a somewhat long scientific explanation that involves oxygen levels at the microscopic levels, which you don't need to know to know that it helps and is free to do).

Total maintenance time: 11 minutes

Let's go back in time for a minute:

Setting up the filter

Okay, so i'm assuming that you know how to set up a canister filter, and if you don't, just go to eheim.com or the like: it's fairly simple.

Really the point here is to expose my secret for the setting up a canister filter for a planted tank.

It involves an easy first step, which we're all familiar with:



If you bought an eheim, it should come with Bio Rings (mechanical filtration), if you'd like to use the ADA version, it's Bio Cubes (which we'll have sooner or later), but for now just have a layer of mechanical. This helps to break down / catch larger debris in the filtration process.

The second step is pretty easy too:

Carbon. (Rinse before use always, large explanation as to why, but just know that you need to do it. Also, don't do it in any area where it can stain the surface, carbon stains stuff. Like, say, in the bath tub. I did that once and it took me like a month to clean the carbon off. Bad idea. Use a stainless steel kitchen sink or the like).



That's it. We're going to only use carbon and mechanical, at a ratio of 20% mechanical, 80% carbon for the first 30-45 days.

The reason you're going to do it this way is because during the set up, we need the extra purification power of Carbon. This helps to polish the water and remove any negative elements, which there will be the most of during this period.

After the first month or so, we'll no longer need to use carbon (it will have burnt out by this point) and we can switch over to biological to maximize our biological filtration (most important step in filtration for us).

Tips for Carbon
*has surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow on (which is why I use carbon instead of purigen in the planted tank, for a while, I / ADG used purigen in planted tanks, but long-term testing proved carbon to be better for this reason, though you can use carbon + purigen as well if you like, however if the choice is either carbon or purigen, go with carbon).

*choose the highest quality carbon you can get, this leads to the best results and the highest capacity for cleaning the water. NA Carbon is an excellent carbon source, and even better than NA Carbon is sources of Bamboo Charcoal (the best aquaria-related carbon, taken from bamboo).

*avoid carbons that are just powdered or "caked onto filter pads," these tend to come by default with filters, the eheim 2211 i'm using came with one, and they're largely useless. They help some to make the water clear, but that's all they do. You always want a carbon that comes in stick form or that is bamboo charcoal (these types are kind of jagged edges).

P.S. if you've found these techniques valuable, help share the information with new comers by linking back here in your own journals when you use my techniques!
 
#118 ·
Hey, just wanted to say I really appreciate this type of effort on your part for the hobby. I think a lot of us newbies will benefit from seeing a "start - to finish" process instead of a random tank build.

About the HC Cuba: Many times I have seen lush carpets with little details about the growth. One picture would be the clumps of HC and the next would be a carpet with the last picture being a lush carpet.

Can you take more pictures of the HC spreading, I did the same thing as you and many others yet I'm having these bare spots.
 
#120 ·
Very soon freph, keep up in contact with me and we can get you taken care of on the order side of things.

P.S. if you've found these techniques valuable, help share the information with new comers by linking back here in your own journals when you use my techniques!
 
#123 ·
Freph, I wouldn't use it on my personal tank at home, nor have paid for it (I bought all of the equipment shown before taking over ADA at ADG, excepting the Wood Cabinet stand, which was a gift from Jeff Senske) if it had any issues what so ever. Just keep the water level at about where I keep it in the photo and you'll be golden.

P.S. if you've found these techniques valuable, help share the information with new comers by linking back here in your own journals when you use my techniques!
 
#122 ·
Alright, it's time for Day 6 water change. By now you must be sick of getting these pictures! "They all look the same!" I promise you they are new ones every time.

Perhaps when this process is finished, if you're feeling intrepid you can go print out these photos and make a growth flip book.

This time I remembered to take a photo before the water change:



See that? it's brown! very slightly!

I drained the water level almost all the way down to the substrate here, and trimmed off a few pieces of riccia that had some algae on it from what-ever tank it came off of ( you want to eliminate those pieces as quickly as possible, don't be afraid to make surgical cuts) :



Annnd, the now famous bucket shot for you to illustrate:



Now, for the fill up process, again, I'm turning the filter on at about the halfway mark (once the water level is safely above the intake of the intake pipe) for some extra oxygenation fizz:



And then finally, after a grueling 15 minutes (trimming!) we're back and filled with water again (seriously, it takes longer to upload these images and write this post than it does to water change...if you have time to make a post, you have time to do a water change on a nano) :



Proof that these are new photos each time: you'll notice that extra Riccia stone missing. I decided it was totally messing with my feng shui, and immediately after removing it confirmed this fact. Saving the extra riccia wasn't worth it. Though it is sitting in a cup of water outside in sunlight now.

Dosing: 5 drops of Green Bacter. 1 Squirt Brighty K. Day 6 water change percentage: somewhere around 80-90%.



A photo from a different angle to show a different perspective. Kind of cool, don't you think?

You have probably understood by now that this process has been pretty painless, easy and can be done by anyone: and I hope that the bucket shots have illustrated you in a very real way all the preventative maintenance you're doing for 10 minutes of time a day. You might never look at your tank the same way again.

P.S. Are you going to start your journal yet and start using these techniques? If not, what's the hold up! You don't need ADA product to exploit the techniques being used here for water changing and setup!

P.P.S. If you have a 10 gallon tank, this usually takes about 15-20 minutes, and if you have a 20 gallon tank, about 25-35 minutes. Still pretty easy, no?

P.P.P.S. I want to see your aquascape! Light up this forum with your journals of success! You've got all the information now to have a really awesome start! Don't worry about later, by the time we get there, I'll have covered the topics and you'll have learned what to do if you don't already know.

P.S. if you've found these techniques valuable, help share the information with new comers by linking back here in your own journals when you use my techniques!
 
#128 ·
P.P.P.S. I want to see your aquascape! Light up this forum with your journals of success! You've got all the information now to have a really awesome start! Don't worry about later, by the time we get there, I'll have covered the topics and you'll have learned what to do if you don't already know.
I guess you missed my post.... anyways...

Dosing EI, Nitrate is 10 - 20 , high light, Co2 pressurized at 30 ppm. Flourite Black, the usual stuff.....

Advise.

2 weeks ago


To:



It was lush and green for the first week and then BANG..... growth is still high, I trimmed some yellow off and kept it low to the gravel.
 
#129 ·
P.S: I think the answer to #3 is that the cost difference was minimal for the results achieved.

P.P.S: I keep expecting there to be a multiple choice exam that we get graded on at the end of the week.

P.P.P.S: Oh god it's rubbing off on me.
 
#136 ·
The model used here is the Mini P-1 (10mm, Mini P-2 is 13mm), the smaller size is suitable for an ADA Mini-M or Mini S. The Mini P-2 suitable for a mini L, 45-F or 60-F. The primary advantage of the Mini P series is that it consolidates water flow into a strong stream. You can't see it in photos, but the push of the filter + the lily pipe is enough to bounce the water off the opposite corner of the tank, then to the opposite corner, then back to the intake without losing much momentum.

So flow goes origin (front left) - front right - back right - back left. This is important to know for co2 distribution, and is why I have the diffuser situated under the output. Another trick, to change co2 densities in the aquarium is to switch sides the co2 is on, which will affect plant growth rates and allow manipulation of how things grow.

A spray bar is terrible for flow because it distributes your flow over an even surface, so by the time the water is distributed among the spray bar it barely has enough energy to hit the other pane of glass.

I'll try that, thanks for the suggestion.
You should about double-triple your dosage of potassium. On day one double it, day two same as day one, day three same as day one, then on day four triple the dosage from the original, do that on day five, etc until you start seeing the plants recover. Just keep incrementally increasing your potassium until the problem is corrected. If you start getting some algae, dial it back down a little bit.

Being able to detect plant coloration is one of the tricks to knowing how much to dose.

Hey Frank! How you doing down there in TX?
Great Roy! How's GSAS & yourself doing? Texas will become very hot soon and I miss Seattle's soft water.

i have green bacter (came free with some ADA stuff i bought), but never used it cuz i have no idea what it actually is. ive heard "bacteria cultures" and "bacteria food", but which bacteria and what form of food?
Green Bacter is a combination of dormant bacteria cultures and a type of mulm which is a food source for the beneficial bacteria. I don't know what names of the bacteria that are in there, but the primary ones are the bacteria directly responsible for the nitrogen cycle (ammonia - nitrite - nitrate etc.), the others are those which are synergistic with plant roots, etc.

It's used 1) to help cycle the aquarium quicker, 2) to help bacteria recover after water changes and filter cleanings (long periods of time, of up to 30 minutes with a filter turned off is disastrous to the beneficial bacteria)

Basically everything ADA sells is "caked," with beneficial bacteria: Bio Rio has it, Power Sand S has it, Bacter 100 is it, Green Bacter, etc.

P.S: I think the answer to #3 is that the cost difference was minimal for the results achieved.

P.P.S: I keep expecting there to be a multiple choice exam that we get graded on at the end of the week.

P.P.P.S: Oh god it's rubbing off on me.
This would be correct.

1. I want something beautiful and i want to create it. i enjoy dong maintenance and setting things up and such, and if it becomes a large burden, its not achieving the goals at hand. with school and volleyball after school everyday, sometimes im stretched for time, but i enjoy it and try to stay on schedule. and also i want my fish or shrimp to be happy and healthy.

2.hmm, not sure exactly how much ive spent, because most things where gradually added. what i paid for things currently being used in this tank, and what ive paid for things up until this point is different. what i paid for things being used right this second is probably only about $130 thats filter, co2, plants, and substrate. everything else being used ATM was given to me at one time or another.

as for budget, im a teenager, so im alwasy on a tight budget. right now i dont have any money to spend on it, except to keep things alive. im willing to spend a little bit on new filter media, but not much else other than things that NEED to be done now. once i save up some money, i will hopefully upgrade some stuff and replace plants that died before a major upgrade though.

3. could it be the skill and expertise of the creator?

ps. would it be better for me to pm you? so i dont junk up your thread? either way is fine for me, im just glad to get advice.
I'll tell you a secret: the biggest waste of money I made in the hobby was not doing it right the first time. It cost me about $1200 to make the mistake of the first tank you saw there, and everything was basically junk and didn't work anyway!

It's not too bad when you can budget out, I would give you priority right now to getting: Bio Rio (something you can take care of and keep for long periods of time) for sure, and for other suggestions I'm going to have to look at your journal again.

But the core lesson comes to this: if you want to master the planted tank and achieve what you want in creating something beautiful, with little maintenance time, then the most important thing you can do is listen, learn, ask questions and save money as much as you can to build up to buy things to do it right the first time. Rather than spending X on Y because it's cheap, then Y breaks then having to buy Z anyway.

Following previous threads of Franks, some of the most valuable content is from people asking questions like this. It's not clutter at all IMO.
Gold star!

P.S. I need coffee.

P.P.S. if you've found these techniques valuable, help share the information with new comers by linking back here in your own journals when you use my techniques!
 
#137 ·
Coffee sounds great right about now...too bad my brewer is terrible. :( You have an email in your inbox chief. :) Also, how does the P1 outflow do for surface film or do you have to raise it like the regular lily pipes to see any removal of it? Also, how does the CO2 density thing work by changing the location of the diffuser? I thought it would be the same throughout as long as the current is dispersing it around the tank.
 
#139 ·
I need to find a time to escape to recruit coffee beans.

Generally, with an eheim 2211, surface film isn't too much of an issue, however it does occur. There are two methods to solving this: one do a small daily water change even when you are past the 1 major water change a day week (basically at night you would lower the water level to the lily pipe's output surface). Two: you can raise the lily pipe at night by using essentially a chop stick to raise and suspend it (this is kind of the jury rig version and just something I do every now and again, not a real ADA solution).

The other solutions for aeration at night is to manually add an air pump / stone.

Honestly, I'm more a fan of the drain a little bit of water at night and fill in the morning. However, it usually isn't as big an issue in these small tanks due to size and volume.

Where the diffuser sits in the aquarium makes a massive difference to distribution effectiveness. For example in the 60-P at ADG, every 2 weeks we switch the side the diffuser and filtration are on, because the side OPPOSITE of the diffuser will grow thick and tall, while the side WITH the diffuser will stay shorter and not grow as quickly, due to how flow maneuvers co2 through the water before it's fully diffused.

So sometimes if you're experiencing problems with one side of the aquarium not fully growing like the other, simply switch where the diffuser and flow are.

Thanks! I'll do that!!

is there a substitute i can use for the bio rio, maybe something cheaper and easier to get without having to worry about shipping? or would this we've an instance of "doing it right the first time" where nothing competes with bio rio?

what does tourmaline F do?i dont use any ADA additives. maybe there is something i can use instead? or would i be alright just not using either one when I clean my filter.
There are certainly alternatives to Bio Rio on the market: every major aquarium company produces a biological filtration media. However, I have found Bio Rio to be hands down the best in my experience, even over ehfi substrate (eheim's version, which is more expensive).

The reason is, from the get go Bio Rio has beneficial bacteria in a dormant state caked on it (e.g. quick start when you make the transition without sabotaging your biological much), has the highest microscopic surface area on it for biological, and basically has a little nutrients with it (it's a bit earthy).

If you take care of Bio Rio, you'll be able to use it for years to come. Just rinse it in aquarium water on a regular basis and it will last and last and last. Not a bad buy for $10 for 1l and $20 for 2l. So if you're in it for the long haul, invest in Bio Rio and a netting material to hold it together (i'll find a link somewhere).

Tourmaline F is a high quality water polisher and is a bit more perishable than Bio Rio, so if the choice was Tourmaline OR Bio Rio, go with Bio Rio, although shipping dollars is about the same when you get the two together. Tourmaline F allows you to not have to use carbon to remove any impurities and is much longer lasting than carbon as it is raw Tourmaline Stones.

I would begin a track of investing in ADA additives for their effects and uses, but take it in steps, learn what they're useful for and apply them for effectiveness.

In a 10 gallon tank:

Green Bacter: $18, beneficial bacteria stabilizes aquarium during cycling and helps during water changes to maintain bacteria. In a 10 gallon it will last you 1 - 1 1/2 years with the proper dosing.

Cost: $0.033 a day

Bacter 100: $16, Substrate additive + cyanobacteria killer & additive for algae problems. For Nano tanks, typically lasts 4 layouts.

Cost: $4 / layout

ECA: $18, fertilizes iron and organic acids to encourage bacterial growth, dosed once a week 3-4 drops. In Nano tanks, will last 1 - 1 1/2 years.

Cost: $0.033 / day

Green Gain: $18, contains trace elements, minerals, amino acid, as well as plant hormones to help plants recover quicker after trimming. In Nano tanks, lasts 1 - 1 1/2 years.

Cost: $0.033 / day

Phyton Git: $18,
contains Phytoncide and no chemicals. This is a natural solution to algae, when it breaks out dosing to water column helps kill algae by strengthening plants natural auto-immune systems to fight algae. You can apply this with a brush directly to anubias leaves to kill BBA. Lasts 1 - 1 1/2 years in Nanos.

Cost: $0.033 / day

Then of course, the fertilizers themselves when you switch over to them, each 500 ml bottle will last about a year in a nano tank (I had one bottle of Brighty K, Step 1 and Step 2 last about 2 years across three different tanks. But we'll just say each $20 bottle will last 1 year to be conservative.

Cost: $0.05 / day between 4 total fertilizers (i'd just do Brighty K, Step 1 then buy Step 2 later, then Step 3 down the road.

So your daily cost to run the TOTAL ADA system would be: $0.18 / day and $4 per layout (well, $20 per layout if you did all the substrate additives).

P.S. if you've found these techniques valuable, help share the information with new comers by linking back here in your own journals when you use my techniques!
 
#138 ·
Thanks! I'll do that!!

is there a substitute i can use for the bio rio, maybe something cheaper and easier to get without having to worry about shipping? or would this we've an instance of "doing it right the first time" where nothing competes with bio rio?

what does tourmaline F do?i dont use any ADA additives. maybe there is something i can use instead? or would i be alright just not using either one when I clean my filter.
 
#140 ·
I took a few other photo's just for fun last night after the lights had been on a while:





P.S. if you've found these techniques valuable, help share the information with new comers by linking back here in your own journals when you use my techniques!
 
#141 ·
thanks for writing that out!! its given me some good things to think about!

es, please post that link or PM it to me when you get a chance.

so tourmaline F isnt a liquid? its something like purigen?

i dont have money to buy much if anything more than the bio rio right now.

this summer im hoping to save up to get an ADA or do!aqua tank and the whole shebang. i might not get everything from ADA but most of it hopefully. maybe a 45-p or the do!aqua equivelant. regardless of which tank i end up getting, i might just wait on the additives and such and just get dry ferts and dose EI or PPS pro, then buy the ADA additives when i have saved up to get it all at once.

or maybe it would be better to get the additives all when i have saved enough to get them all, then save some more to order the tank. i dont know, ive got time to figure that out though.
 
#146 ·
Take it in steps. My very first tank had no ADA (largest disaster), and then I gradually added more and more ADA as I could afford it until you see what I just listed above. Most of that equipment has lasted me for years now, and it's the best investment I've ever made (I don't keep a TV at home, I tried watching TV lately, and that stuff makes you stupid. If you want to increase your IQ by 20 points read a book, take care of a planted tank, whatever instead of watching drivel on TV).

Anyway, back to taking it in steps. If you'll let me, I'll teach you a very valuable life financial strategy (hey, I normally get paid money to give this information as a consultant, so take it seriously).

Extreme cliff notes here (you'll have to enroll in a class with me to learn details & why, my going rate is $200 for all the information you need to start earning wealth & become debt free):

Budget out what you want, set plans, and set TIMELINES. Visualization is important, useful trick: the human brain can't tell the difference between a real and imagined experience in memory. Mimicry actually works.

So, take what you want, focus on that, and set your timelines to raise X dollars. Don't accept mental excuses you'll tell yourself like "i can't get the money, I'm XYZ, I can't do that," (believe me, we ALL do it, and it's all a mental block that prevents us from getting what we want. If you can conquer that, you've got a huge leg up on everyone else) sure enough, if you say you can't do something, you, well can't do it and won't do it!

I'd go in order of biggest bang-for-your-buck first. I can help you budget and put it all out there for you to work. But go with Bio Rio first.

Tourmaline F is pure stones - much better than Purigen. Purigen is a chemical based powder that purifies water.

Thank you for letting us see your past tanks, love seeing the progress folks make from the beginning!

Also appreciate all the journaling you did here, helps a lot I think!
Not a problem Alyssa! Many people are embarassed by their original layouts, but I say, hey, y'know I think that's the most valuable part of anything.

Look at my original layout: there was even a non-aquatic plant in there! and when you see that, and laugh and go "okay, well I can definitely at least do BETTER than that," you can then see the progression and know that while you're having frustration now (if you're having it, and in this hobby that's pretty common no matter what level you're at), there is another level you can and will cross into with dedication, persistence and the willingness to learn and adapt successful habits.

The only way you lose in the Planted Tank game is to give up.

P.S. if you've found these techniques valuable, help share the information with new comers by linking back here in your own journals when you use my techniques!
 
#143 ·
A few of you now have asked me questions about the equipment list that I am running on this aquarium, and while I think that putting it up as the very first thing to do to get people to read a thread is in poor taste, it has become quite evident that you guys find the information valuable, whether that is to mimic the results or to find comparable products on the market.

So without further talk, here's the list:

It's all ADA proprietary:

Core:
Aquarium: Cube Garden Mini M
Lighting: Solar Mini M, Bulb: 27w Compact Flourescent, 8,000k.
Stand: Wood Cabinet Gun Metal Silver

Co2 & Distribution:
Co2 Advanced System (System 74-YA/ver. 2, Clear Parts Set, Bubble Counter (set includes more, but I had a few replacements)
Diffuser: Pollen Glass Mini
Metal Cap Stand
El-Valve (solenoid for automatic Co2 on/off)

Filtration:
Eheim 2211 (13mm inflow, 10mm outflow)
Clear Hose 10mm & 13mm
Lily Pipe Mini P-1 10mm (outflow)
Lily Pipe Mini V-1 13mm (inflow)

Filtration Media, Month 1:
Eheim Bio Rings
NA Carbon 750ml

Filtration Media, Month 2:
Eheim Bio Rings
Bio Rio 1L

Filtration Media, Month 4:
Bio Rio 2L (will end up being 1.5L in eheim 2211)
Tourmaline F

Substrate
Penac P
Penac W
Bacter 100
Clear Super
Tourmaline BC
Power Sand S 2L
Amazonia Powder Type 3L (for this slope, ended up being about 4.5L)

Maintenance Tools:
Maintenance Stand I
Pincettes S
Pincettes M
Sand Flattener
Pro Pincettes Spring (Curve Type)
Wave Scissors
Pro Scissors Short (Curve Type)
Pro Scissors Short (Straight Type)
AP Glass Feeder
AP-1 Fish Food

Fertilizers and Additives:
Week 1: Brighty K, Green Bacter
Week 2 to end of Month 3: Brighty K, Green Brighty Step 1, Green Brighty Special Lights (alternate Day 1 = Step 1, Day 2 = Lights, etc Brighty K everyday)


Month 3 onward: Brighty K, Green Brighty Step 2, Special Lights (see above for dosing)

Month 1 onward: ECA (iron, bacterial growth) once a week, 3 drops.

Fertilizer dosings are one squirt per day, by the end of the 2nd month this will likely be two squirts.

Green Bacter: after every water change, always.

Phyton Git: use when algae pops up
Green Gain: after trimming

Other Setup Tools:
Riccia Stones
Riccia Line
Moss Cotton
Lava Rock for moss attachment

Hardscape:
5 Manten Stones

Water Change Schedule:
First week = daily water change (50%-80%)
Second week = water change every other day (50%-80%)
Third week = water change every third day (twice) (50%-80%)
Fourth week onwards = once a week water changes, water change as needed due to algae.

Total time for water changes on a Mini M: 10 minutes
Likely Regime: draining about 10% of the water daily for extra aeration (~1-2 min)

Water Quality:
Pure RODI water, no additives.

Likely additional additives:

Seachem Excel, half capful daily after 2-3 week for a secondary source of carbon.

Co2 Distribution:
1 BPS first week
2 BPS second week
3-4 BPS onward, raise as needed.

Average Co2 cartridge lifespan:
4 weeks

P.S. if you've found these techniques valuable, help share the information with new comers by linking back here in your own journals when you use my techniques!
 
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