For higher light, Co2 enriched tank's that are moderately
to heavy planted.
Add o2 to your tank daily, by either air stone or surface
Dry Dosing... Use measuring spoon's found at
most department store's in the utensils section, scoop
appropriate amount and toss in the tank, simple as that!
I use to keep an old travel mug under the tank, and
keep fertilizers in large spice bottles, scoop appropriate
amount into cup, dip in tank, stir and serve.
*Dry Dosing Plantex CSM+B...
Converting 1 tablespoon to 250ml H20,
20 ml = 1/4 teaspoon of dry fertilizer.
There are 12 - 1/4 teaspoons dissolved
50% H20 change-weekly
1/4 Tsp-KN03 3x a week
1/16 Tsp-KH2P04 3x aweek
1/2 Tsp-GH booster once a week
5ml or 1/16Tsp-Trace 3x a week
1-2ml-Fe/Iron 3x a week
"If dosing a 10gal highlight C02 enriched tank,
divide above regime x2"
50% H20 change-weekly
1/2 Tsp-KN03 3x a week
1/8 Tsp-KH2P04 3x a week
3/4 Tsp-GH booster once a week
10ml or 1/8Tsp-Trace 3x a week
2-4ml-Fe/Iron 3x a week
50% H20 change-weekly
3/4 Tsp-KN03 3x a week
3/16 Tsp-KH2P04 3x a week
1 Tsp-GH booster once a week
15ml 3/16Tsp-Trace 3x a week
4-8ml-Fe/Iron 3x a week
Mixing Trace Element and Iron, Plantex CSM+B,
Fe/Iron Chelate 10%- mix 1Tbsp per 250ml water-
one cap full=5ml
Adding Sodium Bicarb/baking soda:
One teaspoon baking soda will increase the kH of
50 liters of water approx. 13 gallons by 4 degrees.
Increase C02, even if you have to use Flourish Excel,
and decrease the light, raise it up off the tank,
burn it less hour's etc, then re-evaluate the C02.
Clean & prune, all the plant's, manually remove as much
algae as you can, good condition's will slow it's growth,
even stop growth, you will need to remove the remaining
algae by hand...
Make sure you're C02 is at optimal condition's.
GDA: Cause-Too much light, reduce intensity
BBA: Add more C02/ Reduce light intensity and or duration.
BGA: add N03 and 02/oxygen.
Fish gasping? 02 Issue's?
Increase surface movement/splash, for night time/lights out,
decrease for opposite, if having 02 issue's surface
movement/splash is good.
So a simple lift of the spray bar or lily pipe to break the
surface will remedy that.
Good article on Biochemical Oxygen Demand
'Fertilizers for sale'
This chart is to be used "ASSUMING" proper lighting levels are
being met. Without adequate lighting, this chart can't help you.
Check your bulbs and other threads on lighting to re-assure that
you have a proper light set-up for whatever method of aquatic
gardening you wish to achieve.
The Green represents growth, in group 1 we see that plant growth
is hindered because Micro nutrients aren't being met. Although all
other demands are given in plentiful amounts, growth is stunted by
the lacking nutrient.
Group2 is meant to demonstrate low amounts of nutrient balance =
slow growth. Lighting will drive the plants to soak up nutrients to no
end. They take and take depending on the intensity of light with no
real control. If you limit the amount of nutrients you place inside the
water column and substrate, you limit their growth, no matter how
long you run your lights.
Group 3 represents maximum growth given that all nutrients are in
abundance within a level tolerable to other inhabitants. The EI
method ensures that all nutrients are provided within tolerable
amounts to fauna, as well as a bit excess for flora, all excess is
removed with a water change every week.
Credit to Sarge for graph and text.
An example of dosing 3x a week on my 46g tank,
This is what I do.
Sunday-----Day1)Prune,Preen,Clean glass inside, 50% or more H20
change, vac/sub, 1/2Tsp-KN03, 1/8-ish/Tsp-KH2P04,1/8Tsp-K2S04,
clean glass on outside.
Monday-----Day2) 10ml Trace, 2ml-Fe
Tuesday----Day3) 1/2Tsp-KN03, 1/8ish/Tsp-KH2P04,1/8Tsp-K2S04.
Wednesday-Day4) See day2
Thursday---Day5) See day3
Friday------Day6) See day2
Saturday---Day7) Nothing or prune, or walk the dog etc.
Sunday-----Day8) See day1
Thank you cbennet for the handout you made available
to the public during your presentation at a local meeting...Kudo's!
This can either be printed directly off the screen, or
you can drag and drop it to your desktop for printing.
Good stuff...my hand was getting tired too from typing that all the time. The plantex CSM recipe is also important for folks to understand here.
It seems as though most people have been mixing 1 TABLEspoon with 250 ml of water or double that (2 TBS in 500 ml). That may work fine for most. At times I wish I were still in school to "borrow" a little bit of HCl.
Personally, I always end up with a mold in my bottle even though I put it in the fridge so I mix 1/2 TABLE with 250 ml of water and dose DOUBLE the required amount. So....in my 65 g tank I would dose 20 mL a day instead of 10.
Another conversion. In a 1 tablespoon to 250ml, 20 ml = 1/4 teaspoon of fert. (there are 12 - 1/4 teaspoons disolved. 250ml/12=20.83ml
I am currently dosing solutions (one of macros, one of plantex) from white plastic bottles (1/2 and 1/2 containers - I am a coffee addict). I have not kept them refrigerated. Need to refill my macro (ran out this morning), so will look for growth inside tonight.
Do you keep plantex CSM refrigerated?
I have a request. could someone convert the above table for use with the following macro sources? (these items are locally available for myself and many other hobbiests where the greg watson stuff would require s&h charges)
NO3: Green Light
K: KCl powder / pellets
I know Sulphur is covered by the K2SO4 many use for dosing, but is it necessary to add it to the above items in conjunction with Flourish or TMG, or should "average" tapwater contain enough of sulphur to keep plants happy?
EDIT: added NFO and link
Plus character limit yadda
Then again Dawger's plan is good too!
Quick question? On tank 1 you suggest dosing iron in addition to the traces. On tank 2 and 3 you don't? Is there a reason for that?
Nothing special...I add a shot of iron (2-3 ml) about 2 or 3 times a week for my 65g. So long as you have enough plant biomass, high co2 and relatively high macros, adding more iron will only benefit the plants.
Definately worthy of the sticky Craig... good job and thankyou from all of us ! :proud:
Which leads me to my next thought:
Maybe adding a drop of chlorox to a 250ml bottle of solution would prevent the mold from growing. It wouldn't be detrimental to the fish since the concentrations we add to the tank are so miniscule. Just an idea;Please don't jump on me about how chlorine can kill fish. So can nitrates and we add those to the tank. :tongue:
Almost forgot: Great job Craig. Thats 2 awesome posts in one day. :proud:
Craig - I'm sure this is kidstuff for all you dry dosers out there, but would you mind posting the levels your recommended doses will raise the levels of a given macro/micro? For instance (I'll show my dry fert ignorance here)...
+/-1/4Tsp-KN03 3x a week - raises K by X ppm, N by Y ppm
+/-1/16+Tsp-KH2P04 3x aweek - raises K by X ppm, P by Y ppm
+/-1/16+Tsp K2S04 3x a week - raises K by X ppm
+/-5ml Trace 3x a week - unknown
+/-1-2ml Fe/Iron 3x a week - raises Fe by X ppm
What we are ultimately providing is macros/micros and having a corresponding understanding of the impact of the added would be great - at the very least an understanding of macro/micro uptake rates. Thanks. :icon_bigg
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