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-   -   Preventing loss of siphon - canister (http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9-equipment/197794-preventing-loss-siphon-canister.html)

TexasCichlid 11-19-2012 02:44 PM

Preventing loss of siphon - canister
 
Going to clean out my canister again today to try and improve flow once again. Every time I clean it, I am losing siphon despite having the Eheim disconnect system on my 2028 canister. I fill the canister up as much as possible without overflowing, then secure the lid. Then I plug in the intake/output assembly. Problem is, the air in the head of the unit displaces the water in my CO2 reactor and my CO2 reactor turns into a giant air bubble. I have to crack open the top of the reactor to let as much air as possible out and then I have to hit the prime button a few hundred times it feels like to try and work out the remaining bubble before I can get it to prime.

Is there something I can do to maintain the siphon during this re-connection?

mott 11-19-2012 04:17 PM

I have the same issue, if you can fill all lines with water plus the can. The reactor is the problem.

Aquatic Delight 11-19-2012 05:32 PM

try getting your canister farther down..lower altitude....more distance...should be simple to explain lol.

i had trouble with suction, some one recommended i do that so i took my canister off the inside of the stand and put it on the floor. problem solved.

Hmoobthor 11-19-2012 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexasCichlid (Post 2083554)
Going to clean out my canister again today to try and improve flow once again. Every time I clean it, I am losing siphon despite having the Eheim disconnect system on my 2028 canister. I fill the canister up as much as possible without overflowing, then secure the lid. Then I plug in the intake/output assembly. Problem is, the air in the head of the unit displaces the water in my CO2 reactor and my CO2 reactor turns into a giant air bubble. I have to crack open the top of the reactor to let as much air as possible out and then I have to hit the prime button a few hundred times it feels like to try and work out the remaining bubble before I can get it to prime.

Is there something I can do to maintain the siphon during this re-connection?


hmm..shouldn't be a problem getting the siphon back again...

don't fill the canister all the way..fiill it half way and then prime it..water should glush and fill it up...then plus in the outlet

TexasCichlid 11-19-2012 06:27 PM

Canister is on the floor as it is. The base of the reactor is 2 inches or so above the canister.

If I fill it up half way, I will simply have an impossibly large air bubble to fight. The water in the reactor will drain into the canister, but no more, after re-attaching the disconnect for the hoses. Unless I am missing something there. Priming results in no "gush" of water. I had to prime the unit so many times last time my hand was tingling for 3 hours afterwards and I had a blister develop.

Hmoobthor 11-19-2012 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexasCichlid (Post 2083713)
Canister is on the floor as it is. The base of the reactor is 2 inches or so above the canister.

If I fill it up half way, I will simply have an impossibly large air bubble to fight. The water in the reactor will drain into the canister, but no more, after re-attaching the disconnect for the hoses. Unless I am missing something there. Priming results in no "gush" of water. I had to prime the unit so many times last time my hand was tingling for 3 hours afterwards and I had a blister develop.

anyway for you to take a picture of the setup?

TexasCichlid 11-19-2012 07:15 PM

I can do so when I get home. I have included a drawing in the mean time.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y18...id/Routing.jpg

mott 11-19-2012 07:30 PM

I have a 2026,AM 1000, hydor on the output, the only way I get it to prime without pushing the primer button a thousand times is to fill everything with water, all lines and reactor, starts up easily after that.

TexasCichlid 11-19-2012 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mott (Post 2083774)
I have a 2026,AM 1000, hydor on the output, the only way I get it to prime without pushing the primer button a thousand times is to fill everything with water, all lines and reactor, starts up easily after that.

I fill the canister up far enough that it spills out the sides when putting the lid on. The reactor and all hoses are full when I put the disconnects back on. You have a trick I am missing? When I reconnect the lines the reactor empties itself out into the canister and that's the point where I am screwed. I wonder if I can just pour water into the open intake/output on the lid of the 2028 before putting on the hoses to top it off?


Also, are you happy with the flow on your 2026? The flow on my 2028 seems terrible now.

TexasCichlid 11-19-2012 08:48 PM

Update -- I filled up the canister, then before putting on the hoses I topped it off from the outside. Connected hoses, no loss of siphon. My aquarium life just became about 100% better, rofl.

Buc MacMaster 11-19-2012 09:48 PM

I think your problem lies in putting any water at all in the cannister. Any water in the can prevents the priming pump from operating. With the can empty the primer pump can start water flow from the intake tube, filling the can as it pushes the air out the exhaust tube. Any water at all in the can sets up a "vapor lock" in the circuit. I know my Fluval operates this way, and reading the owners manual on your Eheim (online), it seems to be the same........no water in the can at all at initial setup/startup nor on any subsequent cleaning re-starts. Try that next time......let the priming pump do it's work: prime the can.

HypnoticAquatic 11-19-2012 09:53 PM

If your having an issue with air like that just put the intake on leave the output off slowly open the outake till its full then you have a 100% filled canister and shouldnt have any issues, filling the hose is imo a dumb pita way vs that but thats me.

mott 11-19-2012 10:58 PM

That's exactly what I do! Glad it worked for ya, you don't want to use the primer button unless you really have to, there is a known problem with the proII primer gasket, once it goes you gotta take the whole head apart to fix and it don't look like fun:)


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