Journal of a Mad Scientist: ADA 120-P (56K warning!)

[jt20194]

Sergio,

Have you thought about a sump? I know some are concerned about CO2 loss but I have not found that to be a problem. I have a 10 lb CO2 bottle and it has been going for 3 months now with very little drop. It doesn’t run at night. It’s just my opinion but I think the advantages far out weigh any disadvantages. Then of course, I don’t see any disadvantages… It certainly made my automatic water changer solution easy to implement.

Regardless, so far you have been doing a great job!!!

JT

[scolley]

Sergio - great thread! Thanks for sharing this, and can't wait to see where this leads. And it's great that you documented how people can save a bit of cash with a DIY on a single cord 4-bulb Tek. Great work.

I'm intrigued with your novel John Guest fittings - kind of a manifold really. Very cool. But I'd think you might want a check valve where this enters the your 3-in-one contraption. Unless I'm missing something, without a check valve at the base of that 4-2-1 fert manifold, if you lose a connection at any point on any of those 4 lines, you are going to drain your tank. Something to think about.

Also, on the 3-in-1 contraption, why did you chose the black flexible hose instead of PVC? I'm sure there's a good reason. Do share it with us please.

And as to those nifty little fittings for your probes, I see you have the kind that has the little sliding iris bits. There are two type out there - one does not have those, and they can (sometimes) work better. But their range of hole size is smaller. They just have a O-ring that gets compressed and expands. But sizing them can be tough. I use the kind you are showing too. But I have found that sometimes, depending on the fitting size and the probe size, that I can get a better fit if I wrap stretchy rubber pipe sealing tape around the probe (making it a bit thicker). The rubber tape gives the fitting something to bite into for a better seal.

Good luck! I really look forward to following your progress.

[SuRje1976]

Steve - thanks for the kind words. As I've mentioned to you before, YOUR work and style of documentation has inspired many - myself included.

I guess I never really thought about adding a check valve closer to the PVC unit because of the four I added slightly "upstream" to prevent the ferts from mixing up. I've never lost a JG connection - crap - I'd better knock on wood. I will see what adding one there will do to the back-pressure on the peristaltic pumps pushing the ferts into the tank. I'm a bit concerned about this already.

As far as the black rubber hose; nothing earth-shattering really. I figured the unit would be easier to clean if I could take it apart. If I used PVC, I would have had to cement it, because the T's weren't threaded on the ends.

Glad you had a chance to take a look!

[SuRje1976]

JT - Thanks! As for the sump, I haven't given it much thought. I know it can be done, but I've already invested quite a bit of time and money designing the system that will run on this tank around 2 canisters. It would make the water changer I use currently unusable without some serious reconfiguration - I think. Oh boy - the thought of it is making me dizzy...

[scolley]

Sergio - Thanks pal. You are building something really cool here. And with a good bit of innovation! The extra wire for the Tek, and that manifold are way cool IMO.

In my testing at check valve adds no loss of flow to what you are doing - more work for the peristaltic pump to be sure - but the pressure can't get back to the source reservoir (due to the way the peristaltics work) so it doesn't slow it down. And IMO, if you have a peristaltic on the end of all 4 of those lines, you have no threat of draining your ferts if something slips. It's just that one connection to the main return line that has me worried.

I don't have a lot of experience with John Guest lines. They work great for me in my drain/fill solution, but I still have a solenoid on each of the lines so that any leak in a JG fitting (if it happens ) won't drain my tank. Same issue IMO where your 1-2-4 fitting connects to the main return flow.

Thanks for sharing the reason for the rubber. Good solution. I put in a T with a great big screw cap so that I can unscrew it every year, shake out the bio balls, and wash them out. And guess what? I've done that twice now, and they were so clean, I kicked myself for not just making it a straight piece of PVC! Instead of having that big giant "T" on my diffuser. Here I thought I was being clever, but in fact it appears to me that cleaning the inside of a diffuser is completely unnecessary. Or so it seems. Maybe it's good to have that option, but is unnecessary unless something goes very, very wrong inside your lines.

Here's another thought you might not want to hear though... Will all that CO2 degrade that rubber? I dunno - could be safe. Clever solution anyway.

[scolley]

Originally Posted by SuRje1976

...but I've already invested quite a bit of time and money designing the system that will run on this tank...

Ain't that the truth.

[original kuhli]

Where are you guys finding the probe fittings? Great work both of you!

[scolley]

Originally Posted by original kuhli

Where are you guys finding the probe fittings?

Look here.

[Betowess]

Sergio, Re: the Tek extra electric cord install - Thanks. Seeing is believing, So next time I add some new T5s, that's on my agenda to tidy mine up. The description is easy to visualize. The only thing that bums me on Teks is that I thought they don't have an easy way to mount some moonlights. BUT, now that it looks like its relatively easy to take them apart, I'm going to build some weird angled boxes to mount some Current-USA moonlights on the angled sides and put all the wiring inside the Tek. Out will go my faux hood with moonlights and up will go the very sleek and minimalist moonlit Tek. Thanks again for sharing the info!

[SuRje1976]

Originally Posted by Betowess

I'm going to build some weird angled boxes to mount some Current-USA moonlights on the angled sides and put all the wiring inside the Tek.

That's a great idea Bob. I'll have to think about it if I don't surround the fixture with the canopy

[jt20194]

Originally Posted by SuRje1976

That's a great idea Bob. I'll have to think about it if I don't surround the fixture with the canopy

Sergio,

I have yet to cut out the slots on my canopy to mount my Tek fixture but definitely would give up the moon lights for having my canopy back on the aquarium. I’ll be doing that project in a few weeks. On the other hand, I am sure that between you and Bob you’ll be able to figure out how to have the best of both worlds.

JT

[SuRje1976]

Really JT? I have a canopy on my 45 currently, and I don't really like it! Not for aesthetic reasons so much as because I always have my arms in the tank and removing it and returning it to it's place is a pain in the butt! In either event, IF I do use the canopy on this tank, it will be suspended ABOVE the tank - simply to surround the Teks. Thinking that might look odd though...

[jt20194]

My tank is a Tenecor with a canopy that is hinged and provides all the room I need. So in my case, I am looking forward to getting it back on… each situation has its own unique requirements.

JT

[kzr750r1]

Originally Posted by SuRje1976

Really JT? I have a canopy on my 45 currently, and I don't really like it! Not for aesthetic reasons so much as because I always have my arms in the tank and removing it and returning it to it's place is a pain in the butt! In either event, IF I do use the canopy on this tank, it will be suspended ABOVE the tank - simply to surround the Teks. Thinking that might look odd though...

Are you trying to contain the light over the tank? Depending on how high it's hung over the tank some room bleed could be contained by some sheet metal skirt instead of a whole cover.

I like open top for the same reason. No need to remove a bunch of HW for maintenance. Just slide the lamp up on the cable hangers and your off.

[SuRje1976]

Ok! I decided on wood for this tank, and just ordered a few pieces of Mopani.

Here's some pics:


This is a 3 piece set, Biggest wood 8"Length x 6"Width x 6"Height, Smallest wood 7"Length x 3.5"Width x 4"Height



Another 3 piece set, Biggest wood 8"Length x 4.5"Width x 6"Height, Smallest wood 5"Length x 3"Width x 3.5"Height



11.5"Length x 8"Width x 7"Height



This is a pretty big piece - may break the surface of the water with this one!
22"Length x 14"Width x 10"Height



This is my favorite one! The picture below is a different view of the same piece.
15"Length x 7"Width x 7.5"Height




Now I know I'm not going to squeeze all of these into the 120. I just wanted to have some options to play around with!

Opinions?