|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-03-2003 03:25 AM|
Lol! Hope you get rid of you GW!
|05-02-2003 10:12 PM|
|Buck||somebody sounds bitter... :lol:|
|05-02-2003 04:21 AM|
|scuba415||thanks for the direction. i hope those little green b*st*rds know their days are numbered. they better enjoy their last swim, sucking up my nutrients, bathing in my sunlight. is there any way to make the filtration process more painful for them? :twisted:|
|05-02-2003 03:56 AM|
The filter comes complete....
Right out of the box you can start to use it. It has everything in the package that you need to start diatomaceous filtering.
Like I say this is not a filter that you will be purchasing for every day use , its more of a medical filter.
For anyone that has cloudy water and is anal about "drinking water" clarity like me and has simply given up on the "Chemistry Lessons" that we beat into the ground , it will be money well spent. I have spent more money on test kits, reading books and forums, changing my tank habits,etc. for things that I cannot prove by way of testing and I just shrug them off now...
Hey lets face it...
Just check any forum, and you will find that the most common problems or "unexplained phenomenas" in a tank are GW and cloudy water....
Well...when you start throwing fertilizers , high watt lights, changing bio-loads (fish, plants)...things can happen to a tank and it can take weeks to clear...... diatomaceous filtering will clear anything (even disease like ICH) in 1 - 2 days
All my tanks are crystal clear and always have been... except my 56 gallon tank , which has been a thorn in my a~s ever since I set it up and I still cannot reason why. This tank is now getting to a point where I believe it is settling in because the water clarity is starting to reflect the water parameters... but I can tell you that the Diatom saved this tank from being torn down completely, I was that frustrated !
Im done babbling now :roll:
|05-02-2003 03:30 AM|
|anonapersona||Be very careful with the DE from pool supply, it is very nasty in your lungs! Quite dangerous.|
|05-01-2003 06:47 PM|
|scuba415||thanks for the advice on the diatom. i will order the vortex D-1 and the vortex recharge valve on your recommendation. is there anything else i might need? i will get the extra D.E. from a pool supply like you said. this may sound like a dumb question, but is the filter powered or do you hook it up to a seperate pump? i see the D-1 has a flow rate of 150 GPH|
|05-01-2003 02:56 AM|
I bought the Vortex D-1 from BigAls and it works great and the price is awesome.
Dont order any extra D.E. from them ,you can buy a 10 lb. bag from a pool supply place for like 6-7 dollars... aquarium grade and pool grade are one and the same.
However, do yourself a favor and order the DIATOM RECHARGE VALVE(Vortex) as listed at BigAls for 13.99...
Its the best money you will ever spend on a filter part ! It is NOT necessary but the filter is a pain in the butt to use without it. Its used for priming the bag with D.E. which can be messy.
There is no picture of the valve at BigAls but you can see a parts breakdown at the Vortex website.
Did you see this yet ? Photos of a Vortex in action on my tank, this shows what they can do !
|05-01-2003 01:22 AM|
thanks buck, i guess yours is the best advice, quit trying to figure it out and get a diatom filter. besides, there are worse types of algae that i could be growing :lol: any advice as to what brands are good? i really dont know much about them. i usually order from big al's, they have a vortex brand for $68-$109, and an aquarium products system for $100.
thanks for the advice
|04-30-2003 11:53 PM|
Call it a nutrient imbalance, a chemical imbalance , or even a lighting problem... who knows for sure...
My personal experiences lead me to believe that it is always a bacterial issue that bring's out the dreaded GW.
Any time I ever got GW it was either a newly setup tank or I had messed with a tank in a major way as in substrate digging, rock or wood removal , overcleaning filters etc. , or a couple of these at once...
And by saying , "newly setup", that is how I refer to any tank that has not been established at LEAST 1 year ... planted or not.
To become a fully balanced environment takes a long time. Planted tanks definately get there a bit quicker but it still takes a long time to balance out... and even while its trying to establish we mess with them. :lol:
All your numbers look good so I wont even venture a guess as to what is causing it...
IMO I believe that GW is the result of an insufficient or weakened bacterial colony that allows " :?: " to build in our water's parameters and let the GW get a foothold.
We see GW and test for everything that we have kits for... but what about testing for Bacteria ? the good, the bad and the ugly ?
Its all about balance ... and with everything you are pumping into that tank that has 300 watts of light over it is going to take time, trial, and error
My Advice: Do not beat yourself to death trying to figure it out, if there was an easy answer we would all know allready,
My Solution Get yoursel a Diatom Filter and kick that GW's Butt. If it comes back, go to the closet and get the Diatom and whoop its butt again... :lol:
...or you can do the water changes, fert adjustments, blackout period, adjust the lighting phase, ...yada yada yada...
Buck 8) (the guy who gave up trying to figure out why)
|04-30-2003 07:20 PM|
ok, lets see if we can get a consensus here. what causes green water? other than the standard "nutrient imbalance" response.
i have heard a lot of people blame phospahtes for green water outbreaks, and i have heard some blame ammonia. read the last post on this page for the ammonia argument: http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/green-water.html
i, obviously, am having a GW problem right now. other than the GW i have a little green spot algae but no other algae. 100 gallon tank, heavily planted, including many stems, 300 watts CF lighting, wet/dry, press CO2, low fish load, dosing N, K, dupla duplaplant tabs at water changes, dupla 24 daily micro drops.
PH 6.4, KH 3, GH3, nitrates 5ppm, ammonia 0, nitrites 0, phospates 0
i was also wondering if anyone is using a hagen phosphate tester, i have one and am beginning to wonder if its any good?