|10-25-2009 01:01 AM|
That was great dud. Never saw that one before.
|10-23-2009 11:45 PM|
|cole99v||I wasnt really thinking like tiles of it, more or less like a retaining wall for a sand terrace?|
|10-23-2009 07:03 PM|
I used a rather big panels on the back wall of my 180 earlier this year and planted varieties of Java Fern and also Java moss on them.
Use aquarium grade silicone to attach panels to glass. I used a lot of silicone around a panel as well as across it and pressed it to the glass with a piece of wood across the tank. Let it cure for a few days dry and then add water - I changed water a few times before adding substrate and starting planting.
Be sure to fit pieces as a 'dry run' and cut anything to fit tight before attaching panels permanently. Use a generous amount of silicone to secure panels tight, so no living creature would be able to sqeeze in.
Plants you can attach to panels with a 'crazy glue' or staples when you have a substrate in and you start filling with water after the curing time.
|10-23-2009 01:34 PM|
I've never used it myself, but I'd check this thread out before you start:
|10-23-2009 11:34 AM|
You should probably ask those cork soakers
|10-23-2009 06:13 AM|
|cole99v||Ammonia most likely, and yeah i plan to silicone it to the bottom, thats all sweet info. Does anyone know how fast it degrades or if it does virtually at all? i wouldnt think it does very much at all, since they use cork as a wine sealant.|
|10-23-2009 05:59 AM|
|Ariel301||Why would fish lower the pH of your water? That doesn't make sense to me.|
|10-23-2009 05:19 AM|
One last thing
I forgot to mention. CORK FLOATS.
You might want to consider using silicone to hold it in place.
|10-23-2009 05:17 AM|
Cork is good
I for one have used cork bark in tanks before and have noticed NO changes in water chemistry due to the cork bark.
I started with and established/cycled tank, PH was stable at 7.2. I then removed all fish (Cichlids, tropheus Ikolas) and then added the cork bark as a background. Since there were no fish in the tank, I did not do any water changes for 1 month. Weekly testing showed NO changes in hardness (GH or KH) or PH.
After 1 month, I re-introduced 10 Tropheus Ikolas, (55 gallon tank). The PH then began to drop. I had to use LARGE amounts (larger that without the Tropheus) of Sodium Bicarboante to buffer the water in order to suspened the PH drop. This PH drop accured in the first week after adding the fish.
I attribute this PH drop to the fish and NOT the cork bark because of the simple fact that the tank was STABLE for 1 month without any fish and the PH drop accured within 1 week of the addition of the fish.
The first water change was done after the fish had been re-introduced for two weeks. (50% water change) The fish LOVED it, but no difference in test results. I waited two days and did another 50% water change, at that time, the PH came back up to 7.2(It was 6.8 prior to that)
From this test that I did (and BTW, I did NUMEROUS test involving cichlids with plants) I concluded that the cork bark DID NOT effect the water chemistry at all. There is something involved in the process of the nitrogen cycle that causes the PH to drop if not provided with adequate buffering agents. Just exactly what is causing this drop is what I am currently working on in my chemistry class.
The simple answer to your question of bark in the tank?
GO FOR IT.
|10-23-2009 04:45 AM|
What the Cork*?
Hey i heard you could use cork bark in an aquarium, anyone know about this shiz?
On an edited note, I'm putting it towards the back making a terrace of sorts, then filling the gap with sand.