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Thread: PAR Data-Spiral Power Saver Bulbs, lighting question Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-19-2014 01:34 AM
m00se He does some nice stuff doesn't he...

I think the most important thing to keep in mind when designing a new light system is "how much time am I willing to dedicate to this aquarium and how much money will it cost me over time". I think the time thing is overlooked if you go with the biggest baddest setup you can afford. If every time I look at my high light CO2 driven IE'd tank and see another 2-3 hours of trimming in my future, FOR ME it takes away from the enjoyment and the zen of having the thing in the first place. For me an aquarium is all about the relaxation it provides me, and the interaction of the critters in it with me and each other. So after 2 years of high tech and low tech tanks, one on my left and one on my right, I can say that the low tech tank does what I hoped a tank would do and I tend to pay more attention to it, while the high tech tank, although beautiful, and it scratches my intellectual itch, is more the one that I'm scrutinizing rather than just kicking back and enjoying. More More More is not necessarily Better - gnomesane?

I hope that makes an iota of sense
03-19-2014 01:17 AM
FriskyBetta You have saved me soo much trouble with setting up my new tank! Bravo i4x4nMore! I've also learned that I was about to drop a lot more money for lighting that wasn't necessary. I need to look into getting a quantum meter as well if I plan on getting more serious about this hobby.
02-24-2014 07:37 PM
KenP The reason i questioned this is the note on the graph indicates "desk" reflector. My desk reflector is white painted metal while the reflector for the cfl is mirrored trapezoid shape. The w or m shaped you mentioned i have seen for hps reflectors. My PL Systems hps lights have a m/w reflector.
02-24-2014 06:54 PM
Hoppy
Quote:
Originally Posted by KenP View Post
Hoppy a question. If a cfl is used with a good reflector in the horizontal position would the par be equivalent to to vertical with a 10 " reflector?
No, the data in this thread was taken with good reflectors. But, it may be that a reflector could be designed for a horizontal CFL that was good enough to give you the PAR that a vertical CFL gives. I don't know what that would look like, but I suspect it would be an elongated W shaped reflector.
02-24-2014 06:31 PM
KenP Hoppy a question. If a cfl is used with a good reflector in the horizontal position would the par be equivalent to to vertical with a 10 " reflector?
02-24-2014 05:00 PM
Hoppy
Quote:
Originally Posted by fjord View Post
There is another thread here that suggests spiral bulbs provide more PAR in a vertical position than a horizontal position. I simply wondered if the tubes were straight, might they produce better PAR in a horizontal position?

The thread I'm referring to is here:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=85667
In the horizontal position about half of the straight tubes would be pointed up, away from the water, about the same as with the spiral tube version. It may be that the straight tube version has a better built-in ballast, which may let it produce more light, since I think those are more costly bulbs.
02-24-2014 02:21 PM
fjord
Another Thread

There is another thread here that suggests spiral bulbs provide more PAR in a vertical position than a horizontal position. I simply wondered if the tubes were straight, might they produce better PAR in a horizontal position?

The thread I'm referring to is here:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=85667
02-20-2014 06:32 PM
Hoppy
Quote:
Originally Posted by fjord View Post
So, I'm wondering if the screw in Quad Tube design might offer better PAR than a spiral tube in a horizontal position. Great thread!

As I don't know how to insert a photo, here is a link to what I'm talking about:

http://www.elightbulbs.com/catalog_p...olor_temp=6500

Another attempt at pasting an image:

[IMG]http://www.elightbulbs.com/General-00252-CF25W-4U-DL-Triple-Tube-Screw-Base-Compact-Fluorescent-Light-Bulb[IMG]
Why would a straight tube design give more light than a spiral tube design? If the built-in ballast is comparable, they should give about the same light, since they both have about the same amount of restrike. Someone would have to test them with a PAR meter to be sure.
02-20-2014 03:53 PM
B16CRXT
Quote:
Originally Posted by fjord View Post
[IMG]http://www.elightbulbs.com/General-00252-CF25W-4U-DL-Triple-Tube-Screw-Base-Compact-Fluorescent-Light-Bulb[IMG]
fixed for you. I had to go to the url you tried to make an image of, right click the pic, some copyright popup stops the initial right click, clear that popup and my right click menu shows up. Then just copied the image url and inserted it between [img][/img].

99% of all pictures you insert this way, the link ends with .jpg or some other image extension - just fyi. If it doesn't, you grabbed the wrong link.

02-20-2014 03:38 PM
Hoppy The reason the photo didn't show up is that you had [IMG]....[IMG] instead of [IMG]...[/IMG]
02-20-2014 12:25 PM
B16CRXT
Quote:
Originally Posted by fjord View Post
So, I'm wondering if the screw in Quad Tube design might offer better PAR than a spiral tube in a horizontal position. Great thread!

As I don't know how to insert a photo, here is a link to what I'm talking about:

http://www.elightbulbs.com/catalog_p...olor_temp=6500

Just put [IMG]"imageURL"[/IMG] and it should become an embedded pic...

EDIT, it didn't work on your link. You have to right click the image you want, go to properties and copy the picture url when you want to embed it into your post. I can't access that website at work for some reason, so try doing what I suggested to get the image URL, then put it between [IMG] [/IMG]

If you're using Chrome, its as easy as right click, copy image URL.
02-20-2014 01:13 AM
fjord
Quad Tube

So, I'm wondering if the screw in Quad Tube design might offer better PAR than a spiral tube in a horizontal position. Great thread!

As I don't know how to insert a photo, here is a link to what I'm talking about:

http://www.elightbulbs.com/catalog_p...olor_temp=6500

Another attempt at pasting an image:

[IMG]http://www.elightbulbs.com/General-00252-CF25W-4U-DL-Triple-Tube-Screw-Base-Compact-Fluorescent-Light-Bulb[IMG]
12-06-2013 12:16 AM
rininger85 just a little feedback... I used the basic information presented in this thread to decide on my lighting for my 10 gallon work tank...

I'm running (1) 13W spiral CFL bulb and (1) 18W spiral CFL bulb in my stock hood (horizontally mounted, with aluminum foil glued on the inside of the hood to make it reflective). Running no CO2 (although I have been dosing a cap full of flourish excel once a week), currently lightly stocked and running for about 6 weeks or so since I planted it. Lights are on a timer to come on from 7am - 12pm then off for an hour (lunch time) then back on from 1pm - 4pm. Substrate is miracle grow capped with gravel capped with Tahitian moon sand (didn't like the brown gravel look after I made a mess planting)

I have DHG, HC, dwarf onion, vals, and a couple others that I can't remember the name of... the vals just melted (original leaves), but has new healthy growth and good roots growing on a couple plants that I can see the root growth from the side of the tank under the substrate.

Here are a couple pictures to show the growth...

first pic 10/22 just a day or so after planting, second pic was 12/3... the DHG is spreading nicely and starting to fill in. The HC I accidently siphoned some up which has been floating (trying to grow roots that I can replant it), but from what is still planted I don't think it has really spread, but it looks much healthier than it was in the first picture (it had been in my 55 for a couple months before transplanting in to this tank). I think it might be slowly spreading, it is on the side of the tank with the 18W bulb.

Nothing huge, but still pretty nice growth I think for a low tech tank (only my 2nd attempt at planting a tank, and its doing better than my 55 that I planted first).
12-05-2013 03:11 PM
Hoppy
Quote:
Originally Posted by charliey View Post
Is the scale ur using for what is low, medium, in high light different because from what i have seen:
Values between 10-30 are considered low light.
Values between 30-80 are considered medium light.
Values between 80-120 are considered high light.
There is no widely accepted scale for low, medium, high light. I like to characterize light intensity by the PAR at the substrate, which will always be a lower number than if you rate it by average PAR in the tank. And, I like to consider what is low, medium, and high light by the need for CO2. Low light - you don't have to use CO2 to be successful. Medium light - you should use CO2 or you aren't likely to be satisfied. High light - you have to use CO2, and very likely at a concentration near that which is harmful to the fish, to be assured of a satisfactory experience. As far as I know, that is just my way to evaluate the light, not generally accepted by others. For that way of evaluating light I currently like these ranges:
low - 20-35 PAR
medium - 40-60 PAR
high - above 60 PAR
too high - above 90-100 PAR

I may change my mind next week, next month, etc.
12-05-2013 05:26 AM
KribsDirect This has been sooooo helpful. Thanks to all who put the time in to help newbies like myself have much better chances of success. My tank journal will credit this thread. I am building a rising fixture for my shop lights tomorrow!

I didn't realize it would ressurect this thread to the top of these forums and bump others down, sorry heh.
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