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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-30-2011 05:40 PM
Treekiller I just wanted to say THANK YOU!

After hours of searching the internet looking for freshwater planted aquarium sumps, I stumbled upon this post. I signed up to thank you for sharing this.
This is ONE of very few freshwater sump designs I have been able to find with plant life taken into consideration.

Outstanding job, neat, organized, easy to maintain and covered to limit CO2 loss.

Only thing left to say...I most likely am going to steal this idea!
Thanks again
08-17-2011 11:41 PM
wkndracer Used the coarse Matala like material in the first basket of the existing sump.
Was actually thinking about the foam Steve sells and checking on flow characteristics based on core size. Considering the use of two panels so I can 'fuge the center.
08-17-2011 09:22 PM
lauraleellbp Going to make it so the foam is removable for cleaning?

Have you considered using Matala mats instead of foam? (easier cleaning)
08-17-2011 08:49 PM
wkndracer
Quote:
Originally Posted by sewingalot View Post
Mike,

Can you give me an update on this? I know it's in your tank, but did you make any modifications since putting it in place? I am just about a hair from setting up one myself, but your thread and the link you provided is about all I am finding on the planted tank side. Anything you would have done differently?
UGH!!! replied to this and lost it to power failure twice already!
Shorter version now LOL. The only mods since setup have been in the baskets. Three hold bio media and the forth only holds the floss in place.

Doing it again,,, I would have added a third safety drain that's dry unless a problem occurs with flow through the mains. That said plumbing as is has never caused a drop of water in the wrong place. Also I think doing another sump (which I am soon enough) I'll be using foam dividers rather than so much glass Geez I wonder where I'd get that idea??? coming soon

Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxxerBoyDrew View Post
Wkndracer,

Great job on the Sump!!! I have used wet/drys for 20+ years on most of my tanks except for my planted tanks, as they have been small enough to run with canisters.

Quick question about Your return lines. Do you have a hole drilled in the deep return outlets to stop the drain of water for when you power down the system? I see Ya put a check valve inline, but just wondering!

Thanks Bud,
Drew
The Tee splitting the upper and lower returns has a vent hole drilled in it and the check valve so covered myself both ways setting it up. Tuning to force water out the longer pipe run to the lower nozzles I placed trimmed down plastic bio balls in the upper pipes to restrict flow, worked out good dividing pressure to the returns.

Sumps are easier (and cheaper) than canisters to clean LOL
08-07-2011 07:08 AM
BoxxerBoyDrew Wkndracer,

Great job on the Sump!!! I have used wet/drys for 20+ years on most of my tanks except for my planted tanks, as they have been small enough to run with canisters.

Quick question about Your return lines. Do you have a hole drilled in the deep return outlets to stop the drain of water for when you power down the system? I see Ya put a check valve inline, but just wondering!

Thanks Bud,
Drew
08-05-2011 08:21 PM
sewingalot Mike,

Can you give me an update on this? I know it's in your tank, but did you make any modifications since putting it in place? I am just about a hair from setting up one myself, but your thread and the link you provided is about all I am finding on the planted tank side. Anything you would have done differently?
07-29-2009 04:54 PM
plantbrain
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raul-7 View Post
On a large system, using a sump is much more effective and cheaper than designing a complex closed-loop (ie. scolley's aquarium). The sump serves as a central unit with all the filters, heaters, probes, water changer sensors and whatever else you can think of in one easy to reach location. It also has other benefits like keeping a consistent water line in the main aquarium and removal of surface scum; just to name a few.
On a large tank, the evaporation issue is rather large(my 180 Gal loses about 1-2 liters per day). Automated water changes and auto fill with a flat is much easier to add and keep all that stuff out of the main tank.

Internal pumps might add more heat to the water, but they operate at lower pressure and use less electricity, about the same as canister filters.
You can also add a cooling flan in the sump as well to cool the water.

I sold my in line OC filters and iwaki pump and use a pair of canisters and needle wheel now on my 180, the 60 and the 120 use sumps. I suppose I could convert the 180, but the look of the bottom plumbing is still too good to justify.

Still, a correctly set up sump and overflow should be pretty good as far as CO2 loss, with a few simple modifications to commercial Wet/drys.

The Lifeguard pumps are good also, and can be run externally as well on the sumps, and they are lot more quiet than the other brands, like Iwaki and higher pressure return pumps.

For what we require, that is a waste of energy and adds more noise.

Regards,
Tom Barr
07-29-2009 04:13 AM
Raul-7 On a large system, using a sump is much more effective and cheaper than designing a complex closed-loop (ie. scolley's aquarium). The sump serves as a central unit with all the filters, heaters, probes, water changer sensors and whatever else you can think of in one easy to reach location. It also has other benefits like keeping a consistent water line in the main aquarium and removal of surface scum; just to name a few.
07-28-2009 12:49 AM
plantbrain Lot of work.

Sumps are good, nice etc, but relative to a canister filter, I have to wonder.
I'm talking about ease for average aquarist.

DIY projects like this are awesome, you learn a lot etc, but many will just not do all this. It is complex.

However, taking what you learn from all that, distilling down the main factors, then redesigning the system for simplicity, now you have something good.

I use a pre made sump wet/dry, duct tape the edges on the tower.
I use large foam 30-20 pore per inch blocks, and clean these weekly(these are my mechanical filtration). I use a foam block(about 20-15 pores pre inch and needle point screen to catch large stuff.

I also adjust the flow rate to reduce noise, I have a powerhead in the tank, so the flow rate from the filter is not critical to circulation.

Regards,
Tom Barr
07-27-2009 04:05 PM
wkndracer Got the journal string started

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/ta...k-warning.html

If I count the sump I now have 7 tanks wet in the house
07-24-2009 08:35 PM
wkndracer Hello lauraleellbp, What him said LOL (ZID ZULANDER)
My understanding at the beginning of this project in simple terms was that the bio ball material in the trickle tower area was similar to Bio Wheels on the newer HOB's in that it created a huge area for nitrate producing bacteria. In the final fit of the sump under the tank I ended up losing the tower anyway due to the plumbing configuration of the drains. What I have now is a sealed sump when both glass top plates are in place.

Zid, I've eliminated most of the bubbling in the drain chamber and all splash in the sump so with the tops CO2 loss should be at a minimum.
07-24-2009 08:39 AM
ZID ZULANDER
Quote:
Originally Posted by lauraleellbp View Post
I don't keep any SW tanks so someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought one of the big reasons that trickle filters were used was to eliminate nitrates? Just now skimmers are generally used instead b/c they're more efficient?
Not so. It was the gas exchange Co2 out and O2 back in the water of why they were used. The wet / dry filters use the trickle filter method. Some peopel with large fish tanks use these to house their good bacteria. Sump filters also allow easy addition of other filtration equipment to be added later. You do have the lower tank under your main tank and you will lose some CO2 in the process of the water getting back to the main tank.

The only way to eliminate nitrates in a closed system is to create an anaerobic enviornment. ( Lack of Oxygen ) The other way is to have plants or other organic creatures that use the nitrates in the process of making their food.

Skimmers remove complex organic substances before they are transformed by the processes of biological filtration. Biological filtration would end up producing nitrates of these complex organic substances if the skimmer didnt pull them out.
07-24-2009 03:50 AM
lauraleellbp I don't keep any SW tanks so someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought one of the big reasons that trickle filters were used was to eliminate nitrates? Just now skimmers are generally used instead b/c they're more efficient?
07-24-2009 01:13 AM
wkndracer
Tank Journal once flooded SOON

Well enough stuff has gotten in the way (again) and stalled this project. Back to it now that vacations and class reunions yada yada are out of the way. Moved the tank and stand inside plumbed everything back up and here we go.

I had this post ready last weekend but the site swapped and I couldn't get it in.
Now all I have to do is figure out why my photos won't upload
06-11-2009 02:16 AM
Trallen44 It is cool that you and your son worked on this project together. Can't wait to see it set up with all the angels in it!
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