|03-15-2014 04:14 PM|
|03-05-2014 03:32 PM|
Optimal CO2 is based on the individual aquarium in question.
A low light tanks with a shop light over it, maybe 1-2 bulbs, well, the CO2 demand is not going to be great.
A similar tank with more light that's strongly PO4 limited, will also have less CO2 demand.
A very high light tank and plenty of ferts, and also very intense plant growth, well..........you will need more CO2.
So there's no one single optima for all tanks.
For most densely planted moderate light tanks with reasonable ferts, 30 ppm is a good target to start with. But the chart may not be accurate due to the tap water treatment for SOME tap water suppliers, while it's likely okay for others.
Optimal CO2 is pretty much done by eyeballing it. Looking at the plants, growth and fish/livestock health.
You get close with measurements as best you can, then the rest is a slow progressive increase/decrease and watch closely over the next few days before deciding to add more/less etc. There's no hard no# associated with CO2 really. And it's not something you can easily measure and dial in. You need to work at it.
You need to know the signs of poor CO2, in plants, in algae and with livestock.
Unfortunately, this means experience. Which newbies and folks with issues rarely have .
|03-05-2014 02:46 PM|
I have just read this whole thread. Great information BTW!
I would like to see the article and chart but the link is broken.
It appears to me some people keep referecing the pH of their aquarium water when actually the chart is for a drop checker REFERENCE SOLUTION as others have stated. Unless of course your tank water has few or no other acids in it... Is that correct?
My QUESTION is why at the base of the chart does it say the ideal CO2 is 25ppm when most people are targeting 30ppm or even higher as Tom Barr has stated? It clearly says that anything over 25ppm is dangerous for livestock. Is this true or not?
|10-16-2013 03:56 PM|
|king kong||Interesting reading through the learning curve. Figured out my problem. That chart is the Bible. The harder the water the less CO2 it takes to get to 30 ppm. I am at 11.5 Kh according to Salifert so my range is 7.2 Ph. I was cooking my plants with CO2.|
|07-06-2012 11:09 PM|
|Ptyochromis||How would you use this chart if your PH is past 8.2? Or better yet keeping your PH at 8.2 while maintaining adequate PH. I have hard water cichlids (lake Tanganyika), but am planning on planting the tank. Is there no way to keep the KH/GH at 8-15, PH at 8.1-8.3 and still maintain decent levels of CO2 with very little swings in chemistry?|
|04-14-2012 02:10 AM|
oOKkay...This way is much clearer:
dKH = 1
dGH = 17.9
pH = 6.1
It will help if you provide more info on plants, tank size, lights, trying DIY CO2? etc.
If lights are strong enough plants' chloroplasts are able to make plant sugar/energy from carbon in solution (depending on plant requirements this translates to having preferably higher alkanity).
Floating plants are able to get their energy from carbon dioxide in air but also benefit from carbon in solution as carbonates, organic soil, etc
|12-04-2011 04:52 PM|
|finchflex||question...my ph is 6.1....and mydkh is 1...ppm gh/kh is 17.9...with out co2 injection?...my question is my tank getting co2 from elsewhere?|
|12-02-2011 02:23 PM|
Can I use my marine (salt water) kH test by API to check my planted tank kH? I don't really trust my dip strips. The strips are the only thing I have at the moment.
|11-21-2011 01:33 AM|
Check this out:
|11-13-2011 01:15 PM|
|cblwry||Here's a dumb question. If I read this thread correctly, it's better to put distilled water in my DC. Correct?? The instructions that came with the drop checker said to put in aquarium water. It is showing a lime green right now and my testing shows a PH of 6.6. I do have a little problem with brush algae but not much. And I take it that plants "pearling" is a good sign even though mine have not done that yet.|
|10-11-2011 05:51 PM|
|09-09-2011 10:16 PM|
|09-09-2011 10:07 PM|
|09-09-2011 09:58 PM|
CO2 from different tank
Hello helpful reader, Is it beneficial to add water from a tank that has CO2 injected to another that does not? I am hoping to be able to plant my much larger tank and give it CO2 almost as a treat 1 time a week or so when I do water changes. My planted tank is 25g tall, and the big one is 125g and has had a turtle (diamondback terrapin), and several fish. I am considering breaking the 125 down and redoing the substrate for plants, but would like to not buy another regulator, needle valve, ect...
Also wondering how long I should wait to get fish and shrimp after first planting a tank. The water has been in for a little over 2 weeks with top soil under sand under gravel. The plants were just added yesterday. Ammonia, Nitrates and Nitrites all seem to be 0ppm. pH is around 7.5. and KH test took 10 drops, so 10 deg. I think this is all ok, but how long should I give the plants to secure roots?
|08-28-2011 01:22 PM|
I target 45-60ppm for CO2, but this is a referenced system, then I test based on the reference.
So 30ppm does not seem like the best target either.
I do not mention this typically...........because many already gas their fish due to poor control/use/testing as it is.........with CO2 gas.
But slow progressive adjust works much better, many seek absolution..........which there really is not that much ..........plants will grow over a wide range of conditions...........but the conditions which work best for your goals might be different.
So treat each case as individual, this includes folks who have more than 1 aquarium with CO2!
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|