|10-16-2013 04:56 PM|
|king kong||Interesting reading through the learning curve. Figured out my problem. That chart is the Bible. The harder the water the less CO2 it takes to get to 30 ppm. I am at 11.5 Kh according to Salifert so my range is 7.2 Ph. I was cooking my plants with CO2.|
|07-07-2012 12:09 AM|
|Ptyochromis||How would you use this chart if your PH is past 8.2? Or better yet keeping your PH at 8.2 while maintaining adequate PH. I have hard water cichlids (lake Tanganyika), but am planning on planting the tank. Is there no way to keep the KH/GH at 8-15, PH at 8.1-8.3 and still maintain decent levels of CO2 with very little swings in chemistry?|
|04-14-2012 03:10 AM|
oOKkay...This way is much clearer:
dKH = 1
dGH = 17.9
pH = 6.1
It will help if you provide more info on plants, tank size, lights, trying DIY CO2? etc.
If lights are strong enough plants' chloroplasts are able to make plant sugar/energy from carbon in solution (depending on plant requirements this translates to having preferably higher alkanity).
Floating plants are able to get their energy from carbon dioxide in air but also benefit from carbon in solution as carbonates, organic soil, etc
|12-04-2011 05:52 PM|
|finchflex||question...my ph is 6.1....and mydkh is 1...ppm gh/kh is 17.9...with out co2 injection?...my question is my tank getting co2 from elsewhere?|
|12-02-2011 03:23 PM|
Can I use my marine (salt water) kH test by API to check my planted tank kH? I don't really trust my dip strips. The strips are the only thing I have at the moment.
|11-21-2011 02:33 AM|
Check this out:
|11-13-2011 02:15 PM|
|cblwry||Here's a dumb question. If I read this thread correctly, it's better to put distilled water in my DC. Correct?? The instructions that came with the drop checker said to put in aquarium water. It is showing a lime green right now and my testing shows a PH of 6.6. I do have a little problem with brush algae but not much. And I take it that plants "pearling" is a good sign even though mine have not done that yet.|
|10-11-2011 06:51 PM|
|09-09-2011 11:16 PM|
|09-09-2011 11:07 PM|
|09-09-2011 10:58 PM|
CO2 from different tank
Hello helpful reader, Is it beneficial to add water from a tank that has CO2 injected to another that does not? I am hoping to be able to plant my much larger tank and give it CO2 almost as a treat 1 time a week or so when I do water changes. My planted tank is 25g tall, and the big one is 125g and has had a turtle (diamondback terrapin), and several fish. I am considering breaking the 125 down and redoing the substrate for plants, but would like to not buy another regulator, needle valve, ect...
Also wondering how long I should wait to get fish and shrimp after first planting a tank. The water has been in for a little over 2 weeks with top soil under sand under gravel. The plants were just added yesterday. Ammonia, Nitrates and Nitrites all seem to be 0ppm. pH is around 7.5. and KH test took 10 drops, so 10 deg. I think this is all ok, but how long should I give the plants to secure roots?
|08-28-2011 02:22 PM|
I target 45-60ppm for CO2, but this is a referenced system, then I test based on the reference.
So 30ppm does not seem like the best target either.
I do not mention this typically...........because many already gas their fish due to poor control/use/testing as it is.........with CO2 gas.
But slow progressive adjust works much better, many seek absolution..........which there really is not that much ..........plants will grow over a wide range of conditions...........but the conditions which work best for your goals might be different.
So treat each case as individual, this includes folks who have more than 1 aquarium with CO2!
|08-28-2011 02:14 PM|
I think something that has been pointed out but not absorbed.. the chart and equation are for 'perfect' water. If you are one of those people with acidic water (ph well below 7) and you are not injecting CO2.. then you don't have 'well over' 100 ppm co2. you have some other acid in your water.
go to your water source and do a ph test on it.. if it's coming out acidic, then this chart /equation may just be very useless for you.
|04-28-2011 07:25 AM|
|Abrium||Alright, thanks a lot. That does help. So basically don't let it go into any shades of blue which shows a decrease in co2.|
|04-28-2011 06:08 AM|
The point of a drop checker is that you are eliminating the guesswork of messing with your ACTUAL ph/kh. You are using the controlled KH of the Drop checker. The co2 lowers the PH in the drop checker and you get a direct reading. In your tank, testing the params is basically worthless. In the drop checker you get a controlled result.
Yellow is likely 30-40 ppm. Not 70. Maybe even under 30.
Ranges of yellow are hard to read. If you ahve livestock and they are not gasping, leave it alone. The real importance of dc's is that they help you know when it is way low. They react so slowly that your fish will tell you if you have a problem long before the dc will.
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