|09-06-2013 07:46 AM|
I guess its a yearly chance to rescape!!!
|09-05-2013 05:12 AM|
Some people run a 2nd tank as a temporary home until the new substrate leeches out (as you said).
Some people just move them into a bucket with a sponge filter and replace the substrate in their main tank and wait it out.
Some preleech their substrate and dry it out to use straight away when their main tank's substrate expires.
Some replace 1/3rd of their substrate so that the 2/3rd of the expired substrate can combat the leeching and keep established bacteria in the substrate.
What I did was preleech my substrate and place it into a HOB breeder box so I didn't need to tear down my tank lol (http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...9&postcount=95).
|09-05-2013 04:52 AM|
|09-05-2013 03:29 AM|
|12redblue||Newbie question: If the substrate is only good for say a year and it takes a month or two to cycle before putting shrimp in you only have 10 months before changing substrate. So do you have to then get a second tank up and running to move them to? Change substrate, cycle and move them back???|
|07-13-2013 07:26 PM|
|aluka||It might just be algae and biofilm growth. During the winter months water temp tends to be lower, so plant growth is slower. But with the increase in photoperiod could have made up for it and kept the plant growth.|
|07-13-2013 07:05 PM|
|07-12-2013 10:46 PM|
|07-12-2013 06:31 PM|
I haven't been able to get any MTS yet locally so I don't have much personal experience to their benefits at the moment. Using snails as "placeholders" in the tank I see as an incredible benefit though. Having 6 of them in a 10G actually saves time to me by avoiding the Ammo dosing to prevent BB die-off until I figure out what to actually use the tank for.
Yes, I admit to have Multiple Tank Syndrome. It is bad enough that I keep 2-4 tanks cycled just in case. You just never know when a deal will pop up (like all the prego ghosties from Petsmart the other day when I went to go get some new toys for the dogs. Clerk seemed confused when I asked for all of them. I am a sad case lol.
|07-12-2013 06:21 PM|
|wicca27||i now crs tend to slow down breeding in the winter months. or mine did the 2 years i had them. all my shrimp do for that matter. i think in fact light does play a part in shrimp behavior though. i did an experiment over the winter with one of my tanks. i would keep the light on for a good 12 hours a day on average. and to my surprise the tank with the light on did not drop in breeding. not quite sure why that is. but it worked.|
|07-12-2013 05:50 PM|
To my knowledge, I don't believe light will effect the shrimp itself. It will only effect the surroundings of the shrimp (growth of algae/plant growth) - in terms of photoperiod
and effect how you see their colouration (more white, tinge of blue, etc generally for photography) - in terms of light frequency.
I know some people who use a certain "photo-period" just to save money on electricity. There does not seem to be any effects on their shrimp vs when they did a normal 8-12 hour straight lights on.
lol I actually use Ramshorn snails and put them in the tank during the cycle to help the process. Slime trails and the infusoria that comes from it is awesome XD
And the MTS I toss in the tank will do the same thing but I use them more for aerating the substrate since they do a good job at stirring it up (:
|07-11-2013 09:02 PM|
|Asphalt Art||I have recently turned to introducing a few large mystery snails after a full cycle. They will help continue the cycle by providing waste, and the slime path will be pretty much everywhere in a few weeks (if not a few days). IME I have introduced shrimplets after one week with 100% survival with this method and I rarely feed.|
|07-11-2013 08:26 PM|
|Christof||I'm very curious how shrimp react to photo periods and different light frequencies?|
|07-11-2013 06:32 PM|
" - It is recommended to leave the tank running for two or more months before introducing livestock. This way, bio-film will be established and the tank's water parameters can be confirmed as stable. Baby shrimps need lots of bio-film and stable parameters to survive during the initial weeks of life."
|07-11-2013 08:24 AM|
|sayurasem||I'm thinking the most important step for a shrimp tank is the 4 weeks (at least) preparation for biofilm to develop and water stabilization before adding the shrimp in.|
|07-11-2013 04:03 AM|
Updated the guide:
- 10 gallons is now stated to be the recommended tank size. I assume we can all however agree that the larger volume of water the better.
- Importance of bio-film being established has been addressed in the substrate section along with how long the tank should run before adding livestock
- Test kit components has been addressed
- UGF and brief filter descriptions have been supplied along with guidance on what model to choose
- Snails & Otos have been mentioned under Laws & Recommendations
- Substrates and Remineralizers alternatives have been listed
- Addressed veggie foods and their protein content (using Allen Repashy's post)
- Small list of blanched veggies added in
- Inserted quick blurb that due to nutrient rich substrate, more variety of plants are available to be placed into tank.
- Tops offs and WCs changed to slowly poured instead of dripped unless major evaporation occurred
- Address that this guide may not work for everyone and may have their own techniques on breeding
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ___________________________________
Thanks for the input everyone, I hope I addressed most of the issues and made the guide much better.
Feel free to post any information you feel I am missing out, this article is meant to help everyone out there who is interested in breeding crystal bees (:
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