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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-26-2013 05:39 PM
wkndracer
Quote:
Originally Posted by lullafishi View Post
You can bet I'll be doing research if I have to tackle an infection or parasite! I'm curious if it's good practice to treat new fish as a precautionary measure, before they even display symptoms. Or even using treatments like Stress Coat or other supplements?
There are a number of things to consider and the longer you tank the more you'll learn. Consider 30 days the minimum quarantine period. Even then in all likelihood you will not detect the presence of internal parasites if the fish are infected or are carriers. (fact) Worming is required (imo).
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...8137&highlight=
I treat all incoming critters to a full quarantine. Mystery losses are pretty much a thing of the past.

Great that you are asking and want to learn and not simply "learn the hard way".
04-26-2013 12:40 AM
melanotaenia There is no reason to medicate new fish; better to put in the quarantine and monitor, and treat if a parasite develops. Many times the fish never get sick in quarantine, so there is no need to introduce a stressor (such as an anti-parasitic or antibiotic) to a healthy fish.

It is, of course, always good to have the basic meds on hand, just in case they are required for a fish that does get sick; make sure to always check expirations dates as meds do expire on a regular basis.

There are some who argue a low dose of Copper, but I worked for an aquarium for eight years and we never employed this practice, as we felt it introduced unnecessary stress, for both saltwater and freshwater species.

And fish always have ich on their body; it only becomes prevalent when conditions deteriorate or immune systems are compromised.

One of THE most important things in a quarantine is clean, clean water; utilizing a larger filter will always be better for the long term, and frequent water changes (especially after removing a fish batch following a quarantine cycle).
04-25-2013 09:17 PM
ge2655
Quote:
- 10 gallon tank (will be kept bare-bottom)
- ATI Hydro sponge filter #2
- Whisper 10 pump for the sponge filter (right?)
- 50 Watt Jager Submersible Heater
- Prime
- quarantine-specific net
I use all the items mentioned and have recently added a submersible UV as well. The unit cost $50.00 and is compact, has a 9 watt bulb (replacement bulb is $13.00) and is flow adjustable.

Amazon.com: Aquatop UV Sterilizing Pump with UVP9 and 9W UV: Pet Supplies Amazon.com: Aquatop UV Sterilizing Pump with UVP9 and 9W UV: Pet Supplies

I've used it twice without any ill effects to the quarantine process. It runs the entire 14 days of quarantine and then gets 'dry stored' until the next time.

Highly recommended.

Regards,
-Gary
04-25-2013 08:03 PM
K8xp Stress coat is good.

Medicating before anything appears probably isn't a good idea... Cause if you think one thing is wrong and you medicate for it, it could really be another illness that you worsen by using the wrong med. That's what I've heard, I've only lost one fish before.
04-25-2013 07:09 PM
lullafishi You can bet I'll be doing research if I have to tackle an infection or parasite! I'm curious if it's good practice to treat new fish as a precautionary measure, before they even display symptoms. Or even using treatments like Stress Coat or other supplements?
04-25-2013 06:51 PM
K8xp My hardy tbarbs at least all made it through the heat method (in 10 gallon QT which is what the OP has,) very well. It seems it works for most people. Been 6 weeks now and they haven't infected anything. I think it probably does work best for fish that can do ok in the heat. I was also extremely paranoid and cautious about it though since I was unsure too so did water changes every other day.

You can definitely use meds if you don't have fish it will affect negatively, I just decided to try the natural method before going that route, and it worked well for me.

@lullafishi just do lots of research, and do what's best for the type of fish you get and also don't use my method and meds at the same time lol... One or the other.
04-25-2013 06:45 PM
lullafishi
Quote:
Originally Posted by melanotaenia View Post
Make sure all tubing, siphons, and buckets are also used separately.

And add some type of hiding pieces (PVC, etc.) that are inert so they don't interfere with meds but allow new fish to hide when introduced
Oh yes, I do remember reading that but forgot, thanks for reminding me!


Quote:
Originally Posted by K8xp View Post
x2 ^^ I keep my QT in a quiet place and keep the lights off the whole month they are in there. They are by a window with curtains to get only a little light. PVC pipe is great and also a some medum sized stones just to give some natural feel.

I prefer not to medicate if fish don't need it. If you do get an ich outbreak I'd recommend curing it the natural way with heat: http://www.fishlore.com/fishforum/fr...naturally.html
Thanks for the suggestions and link! I'll be bookmarking that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by frog111 View Post
'curing' ich with heat is a bit of a misnomer in my view. Heating the tank to well above average temps for most fish, simply accelerates the life cycle of the ich parasite, dramatically shortening the time the free swimming stage has to find and infect a host. So depending on tank size, fish load, and parasite loading, heating, while one approach, may not work as well as copper or other meds, and may contribute to stress for a diseased fish.

I generally treat my quarantine tanks with copper sulfate, which takes care of any parasites typically, but reserve the use of antibiotics for actual, observed infections or diseases. All too often parasites have made it through quarantine with no apparent symptoms, only to appear when placed into the display tank.
Thank you for your input and recommendation of treating with copper sulfate. I'll look into that. Do you recommend any specific brand?

Would love to hear more opinions!
04-25-2013 07:08 AM
frog111 'curing' ich with heat is a bit of a misnomer in my view. Heating the tank to well above average temps for most fish, simply accelerates the life cycle of the ich parasite, dramatically shortening the time the free swimming stage has to find and infect a host. So depending on tank size, fish load, and parasite loading, heating, while one approach, may not work as well as copper or other meds, and may contribute to stress for a diseased fish.

I generally treat my quarantine tanks with copper sulfate, which takes care of any parasites typically, but reserve the use of antibiotics for actual, observed infections or diseases. All too often parasites have made it through quarantine with no apparent symptoms, only to appear when placed into the display tank.
04-25-2013 03:28 AM
K8xp x2 ^^ I keep my QT in a quiet place and keep the lights off the whole month they are in there. They are by a window with curtains to get only a little light. PVC pipe is great and also a some medum sized stones just to give some natural feel.

I prefer not to medicate if fish don't need it. If you do get an ich outbreak I'd recommend curing it the natural way with heat: http://www.fishlore.com/fishforum/fr...naturally.html
04-25-2013 12:44 AM
melanotaenia Make sure all tubing, siphons, and buckets are also used separately.

And add some type of hiding pieces (PVC, etc.) that are inert so they don't interfere with meds but allow new fish to hide when introduced
04-24-2013 11:54 PM
lullafishi
Quarantine set-up questions

Hi all!

I have everything I need to get my first display tank started, so now I'm putting together a supplies list for a quarantine tank that I'll be cycling at the same time.

So far I am planning on purchasing:

- 10 gallon tank (will be kept bare-bottom)
- ATI Hydro sponge filter #2
- Whisper 10 pump for the sponge filter (right?)
- 50 Watt Jager Submersible Heater
- Prime
- quarantine-specific net

Am I missing anything? Would you recommend any medicines or treatments to get and use as standard procedure for new fish?

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