|04-30-2013 06:31 PM|
|04-30-2013 05:57 PM|
The idea of EI is non-limiting factors. Starting at a lower number doesn't allow you to see where you're limiting, and numbers can vary drastically between tanks. One tank I dose over 5ppm P weekly. Other tanks, less than 1ppm. Its a lot easier to start at a higher number and reduce (and remove excess with w/cs).
Your plants can only grow as fast as the least abundant resource available (Liebig's law of the minimum.) Since you mentioned green spot algae, it may be that you're already limited on phosphates.
Grow plants, don't fight algae.
|04-30-2013 03:17 PM|
Ok, now after one week I've been injection CO2 using calibrated pH controller then pH has stabilized from 7.8 down to 6.9-7.0 and have aquafertz iron & trace tabs under the crypt & nanas rooted. The rhizomes are not planted and several of the nana's are tied to driftwood. I have noticed "pearling" during my photoperiod for the first time ever in this tank. I have the lights on for 8hrs now for a week. I'm starting to see a lot of new leaves budding !
However, I am seeing even more hair (more like fuzz) algae and green spot on the leaves but due to plant health & recovery I do not want to reduce photoperiod much more to inhibit plant growth. I want to begin my column dosing regiment but want to try & understand something before I begin with the EI method. I do want to start growing multiple plant species & include the red colors but worry about transferring the algae issues to them. I want the algae virtually gone before introducing $100 worth of plants you know?
I only have about 4 larger nanas & 4-5 smaller ones in the 135gal tank along with about 8-10 crypts with a ton of new growth (small 2-3in leaves sprouting). All are very poor in health as I'm trying to recover them before buying more plants. I will clip the bigger old poor health leaves once the new ones get big enough.
I believe this to be a very low plant load at this point so their nutrient uptake will be minimal (also due to poor health). So, having highlight & CO2 now shall I dose EI method to about 25 or 50% of the calculated amounts for my tank until growth increases nutrients stabilize ?
|04-19-2013 04:41 AM|
Plan on dropping the pH using ONLY CO2 gas 1 .0 pH units, so if it's 7.5 after sitting in the tank without light or CO2 gas being added, you'll want to drop it to about 6.5.
Then adjust very slowly from there.
You will focus on plants, algae is a secondary issue after the plants have no been doing well.
|04-18-2013 06:58 PM|
|jfynyson||Just ordered my complete ultimate CO2 system from AP. Any suggestions on initial set up of the CO2 system to battle the green dust algae (i.e. pH to target, bps, bubble size in the reactor, position/flow angle of circulation pump in tank)? You can see all of my tank specs on my tank profile page.|
|04-18-2013 03:36 AM|
It has about 99% likelihood of algae issues,
It's simply bad management to add a high light system to a non CO2 slow growing plant set up. Exceptions? Sure, and very very few of them.
If you have a lot of floating plants, eg, a mat of water sprite, then sure.
Emergent plants mostly?
But most do not want that.
Crypts and Anubias?
High light and no CO2?
And no algae?
Try this underwater, let me know how it well it worked out.
If you put 2x 24W T 5's on a 20 Gallon tank, and try this.....I'll take bets on this one.
|04-17-2013 11:18 PM|
|chou||If you leave the lights on for more than 8+ hours you'll get algae for sure. Low light plants can't out compete algae unless its low light of course. If anything just shorten the photo period.|
|04-17-2013 11:12 PM|
|xmas_one||Depends a lot on how much light and how many plants. Contrary to popular belief around here having high light and no co2 does not automatically dictate algae problems. You can get away with a lot more if the tank is heavily planted.|
|04-17-2013 11:08 PM|
|04-17-2013 06:12 PM|
|04-17-2013 06:04 PM|
|04-17-2013 05:49 PM|
New high light, root tabs, no CO2 = algae ?
In your opinion would having high light, low light requiring plants (cryptos & nana's) along with the addition of root pellets (trace & iron with no water column dosing) lead to algae problems if NOT injecting CO2 ?
pH = 7.5
Phos = 2-5ppm
Nitrate = unknown (until next week when my kit arrives)
GH = 4ppm
KH = 8ppm
CO2 < 10ppm per chart
photoperiod = 6-8 hrs