|Today 01:55 AM|
|lamiskool||Tried this method and it looks like it has cleared the hair algae infestation in one of my tanks that I had. Unfortunately the otos in the tank died though....all other fish/amanos made it though weird.|
|Yesterday 02:33 PM|
|anastasisariel||I did this the other day, however I didn't have any excel; I used only H2O2. I dumped about 1.5 cups of H2O2 into my tank and turned off my sump and introduced powerheads. after about 15 minutes I did a 15 gallon water change to the tank and then turned on my sump (which diluted the main tank by another 25 gallons). I have lost one Otto and for a little while one of my Bolivian rams looked stressed. I am going to do a follow up but this time will use maybe only 1 cup of H2O2 or perhaps 3/4 a cup. Currently 95% of the BBA is pink so I'm hoping a followup will not stress out my fauna too much to wipe out the rest. Im sure i killed some nitrifying bacteria but I doubt I killed off enought to really hurt. Before I do the second treatment I will test nitrites and ammonia just to be sure.|
|03-10-2014 01:19 AM|
|Rush3737||My BBA pearls as well. Pisses me the hell off. That said I've been doing OK with Excel spot treatments so far. Worked EXTREMELY well on my filter outflow and driftwood. Plants don't seem to lose it so easily, but I'm hopeful.|
|12-23-2013 01:52 AM|
I'm dealing with BBA that doesn't follow the normal rules - actually PEARLING - with higher CO2 injections. And grows on glass.
Would this kill BBA as well?
|12-22-2013 03:45 AM|
|MERSF559||ihaveassive diatoms growing on the glass/rocks and drift wood. I've been scrubing what icould. would this be effective against diatoms? the stock I currently have are just 4 neons and 3 horn snails to help with the diatoms. they seem to be doing a job by eating the algae off this rock|
|12-16-2013 05:14 PM|
I've been battling BBA in my 55 gallon display tank for a while now. It's a medium light low-tech tank with a very heavy fish load, soon to be replaced with a 6 ft 150 gallon because the fish are breeding maniacs (guppies/mollies/platties/corys and otos). Surprisingly even the otos are breeding readily in this my tank.
I just did the full one-two punch and ALL of the BBA is dying rapidly, thanks for the original post. I had only 1 casualty through the whole ordeal (1 oto didn't make it) but all the BBA is various shades of read and falling off/getting eaten by the mollies and otos. This method was a god-send.
The next step for me will be going high-tech with CO2 injection and some dosing regimen, not sure which yet. This will likely come after the tank is moved into the new 150 gallon setup.
|10-28-2013 05:57 PM|
OK.. so after ready alot of thread..
4 Tb per 10 gallons..
lots of water flow..
marimo balls are affected..
i have 20g tank.. it is only tank with this algae.. idk why since all other lights stay on just as long.. anyways..
i just added some guppies.. i will remove them during treatment..
BUT one of my marimo is where the HA is growing on.. (pss. may do the DARK OUT METHOD in post 1, so BLACK OUT IT IS)
darkcobra mention hyro/perx would burn it.. does it recover?
i would like to kill it.. i have SAE in there.. they don't seem to be excited by HA..
ps.. great thread.. thanks!
|10-15-2013 03:30 PM|
Worked well for me
I did the H2O2 treatment followed by excel dosing this weekend. I had a mix of BBA, green hair algae and some diatoms (relatively new tank). I used the revised 2Tb of H2O2 per 10gal of tank water. My pond snails just laughed and went on cruising around. I have a school of ember tetras all seem to be doing fine 3 days later, so I think it went well. Algae clearing up nicely (though I also did some work to pull some of it out manually). I did have a ton of flow in the tank when I added the H2O2, so I think this step is crucial to success.
I have several stem plants (s. belem, blyxa japonica, pogostemon stellatus, ludwigia cuba) that did fine. My downoi (pogostemon helferi) looks good, so does my peacock moss, cyperus helferi, and staurogyne repens.
Anyhow, good luck to everyone else fighting the good algae fight.
|10-15-2013 01:22 AM|
|jccaclimber||Adding another data point, did this a couple weeks ago on a densely planted 135. Used the original full strength, didn't really see any bubbling. The hair algae was completely removed as was the staghorn. The BBA was more or less untouched. No fish deaths to note, although one or two going missing wouldn't be noticeable. Found happy shrimp of all ages a week later still in the tank, so I don't think it nuked them. Worth noting is that there was a fairly large amount of gunk scattered in dead spots towards the back of the tank.|
|10-13-2013 12:53 PM|
Edited out the dosing table since it didn't paste well.
|10-13-2013 04:29 AM|
|10-13-2013 02:57 AM|
|maxwellag||I just dosed h202 in my tank today, following the original recommendation (4 tbsp/10 gallon). After about 15 minutes, I did a 50% water change. My fish look a little stressed. Does anyone know what % h2o2 can be in the water before it starts harming fish? I think I am at about 1.5% right now.|
|10-10-2013 02:33 PM|
Thanks for the quick response! I removed all of the HC by advice from a lot of people. Another method too was to get my sae and Amanos up in there to start chomping away. Since the tank is empty now, however, I considered the h2o2 method. I can definitely take out the sponges and what not on my eheim. Better yet I can use my friends power head instead. I'm just getting some dark green algae on some of the plants including the repens. Algae on the rocks and woods too. I honestly think the sae will do it, but if nuking the tank completely can do it easily, it's definitely worth considering!
|10-10-2013 01:33 PM|
I took a glance at your tank journal and if your algae is all coming from your current round of HC melt, you might want to hold on and see if it calms down by itself first. The ammonia from the melt may have triggered your algae but if you remove it, it should fade in time. I don't know if you've read through the whole thread but this treatment is known to melt some lower order plants too. Not sure if yours are included but just wanted you to proceed with caution. But if you DO decide on this, you might want to consider removing the biomedia in the eheim and running it as well because if you follow the guide, it suggests getting as much flow as possible during the "treatment" time.
|10-10-2013 06:44 AM|
Hey everyone, definitely a good read up.
My 40br has been experiencing some bad algae recently. I am planning on doing the H2o2 dosage. so for 4tbsp per 10g x 4, Im dosing 16tbsp all around the tank? I'm going to close out eheim valves to make sure none of the h2o2 get in there, leaving one powerhead on to circulate water. After 30 min, I will do a 50% water change and turn the filter back on, correct? Luckily, the tank is not stocked with anything but S. Repens, Rotala, and Fissidens.
Just double checking the whole procedure. It sounds like a great idea in theory, but after having all my HC melt on me... I don't need another catastrophe on my hands.
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