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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-13-2015 02:30 AM
andyl9063 Just did the 4 tbsp on a 210g with a 55g sump...we'll see tomorrow.
01-11-2015 03:08 PM
DayOlder Did the full 1-2 in a 26 yesterday. No nano's but do have amanos. None of the fish or shrimp seemed effected. Tank definitely looks better today but still some algae. Will wait another week and redo if needed. Believe I brought it on myself when I over trimmed and failed to reduce lights, CO2 or ferts. Have now reduced all three almost 50% till I get some additional plants. Also added stump remover. Later this morning: Found two dead assassin snails in the treated tank.
01-11-2015 10:30 AM
BlackDiamondShrimp Wow cool technique. I have used most of those steps, but now ur thread filled me in on some missing info. Afraid to use Excel tho, since I have had shrimp deaths after using Excel before, anyone had this experience before with Excel?
01-11-2015 06:22 AM
rballi After a couple more days, all of the bba is turning white and on it's way out! The 4 tbls recipe ended up being the winning ticket. So nice not having to spot treat everything. Never saw any stress from any of my livestock. My dwarf sag melted pretty good, but it is already starting to bounce back.
01-09-2015 05:16 AM
fish jihad I had ongoing issues with green spot algae, some green water and bga. I fought it by changing dosing regime and lighting height. Not much luck. So i scraped all glass with a razor blade, removed all affected rocks ( but not substrate), removed filters and vacuumed the gravel (about 30%)
Then dosed the whole tank at levels prescribed by the OP. Performed a 60% water change. I dont have excel or metricide. Instead I did a 3 day blackout on the tank. In place of the HOB filters i installed a powerhead (while doing h2o2 treatment) for circulation.
After 3 days i raised my light 4" off tank and reduced my EI dosing to almost half. Im willing to accept slower growth for no algae. Its now been 2 weeks since this treatment, i dont see any new growth and 98% of old growth is gone. Water is clearer then ever.
I think the main culprit for my problems is mediocre filtration and poor circulation. Altering my light and dosing helped. But i feel the extra circulation is helping the plants get nutrients and therefore outcompeting algae as well.
Hope this helps my fellow algae fighters
01-07-2015 10:55 PM
rballi Tried treatment for 3rd time, but did the full dose as the 2tbsp per 10 gallons wasn't taking care of business. Seems like it took effect this time as things are starting to turn Red
01-07-2015 10:01 PM
andyl9063 a couple of questions,

1. do you take filter media out or can you leave it in? I have a large sump.
2. do you process the second punch right after water change or wait a period of time (how long)
01-02-2015 11:07 PM
dirbrit thanks for the info. nice that
01-02-2015 07:12 PM
The "One-Two Punch" Whole Tank Algae Treatment

I am going to attempt this again, but first doing a large water change first to eliminate as much of the organics as possible. I think that might have been what made the peroxide to be less effective
01-02-2015 07:03 PM
krackerjack82 Just wanted to say that this worked great for me! I resorted to this only as a last resort to a tank tear down after nothing else worked to slow down the bba. I am on day 4 after the treatment and most bba is gone and what is left has changed red and orange and falling off. all plants and fish seem much healthier now! also had no death! I have angles, neons, corys, otos, ghost shrimp, and snails.. all plants are back to being bright green and growing fast again! I did do the treatment at 2 tbls per 10gal,
12-29-2014 09:35 PM
rballi I did this on my 125 as the bba growth essentially stopped but it is on so many surfaces that I didn't want to remove.

After 3 days I am still not seeing anything happen other than my dwarf sag is looking a little rough. All other plants and fish seem fine.
12-28-2014 05:22 PM
paul195 Hi

I am moving house tomorrow (well the tank anyway), which has an infestation of black algae which is a thick coating on the back and sides of the glass, over equipment and on 80% of the plant leaves.

As I will be taking the fish and water out of the tank to move it, I thought this might be a good opportunity to try the 1-2 punch treatment, but I have a couple of questions :

Q. Should I...

A) Spraying everything when the tank is empty
B) Spraying everything using a spray bottle underwater
C) Add it to the water and then increase to high flow?

2. Should I add it/spray it neat in all of these circumstances?

3. My tank is 51G volume so I reckon about 40G of water allowing for substrate, wood and plants. The fish are being removed in the morning, and then need to be back in the tank by the end of the day. As the fish will not be present at time of treatment, what dose is suggested ?

I wondered if spraying the H202 directly onto all the surfaces when empty may have a greater effect, but then I don't want to melt all of the plants!

Any advice would be appreciated.

11-17-2014 03:23 AM
Fodder Many apologies if its buried in these 25 pages, but If you have no fauna, can/should the dosage and times be increased? Can a 'bigger hammer' be used, so to speak, without killing HC?
11-16-2014 06:39 AM
Lyana This doesn't seem to work too well for BGA, should i try again or is there a better way to deal with that?
11-13-2014 02:45 PM
Originally Posted by mef1975 View Post
How strong a dose could I try using if the tank doesn't have any fish, just plants? The Cryptocoryne Wendtii is probably the plant that would react first, and I am a bit concerned about it melting away.

A few months ago, I had infected Rotala Wallichii, that I treated pretty aggressively (probably about twice the dose you suggested here) during a transfer, it was do or die for these guys. The tank I put them into did well for a couple months. Even though the plants retained that hunter green color, as if the infection still resided deep inside their physiology, I saw no fuzz anywhere, until now, and I'm wondering, did it come back because the infection was deep, or has it more to do with an imbalance in the tank? Both? I was basically running the tank at 0 nitrate, just some bladder snails in there, and am wondering if that caused the problem to resurface, or should I have not even tried to rehabilitate such infected plants? Can they only be worked with if the infection is only on the surface? There's also some high pH issues in that tank, from a bad purchase of gravel, seems to run at 8 pH.

Well, I used over 8 Tbls of 3% peroxide in the 10 gallon tank of Rotala Wallichii and Cabomba Furcata, for over an hour (10 Tbls the last 15 minutes), followed by two 50% water changes, and over 1.5X the dose recommended of Flourish Excel (8ml), which the tank hadn't been exposed to in at least 2 months. Before all this, I had trimmed the heck out of the Rotala and vacuumed the tank, in an attempt to remove this green hair algae, and lowered the light cycle to around 6 hours.
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