|11-17-2014 03:23 AM|
|Fodder||Many apologies if its buried in these 25 pages, but If you have no fauna, can/should the dosage and times be increased? Can a 'bigger hammer' be used, so to speak, without killing HC?|
|11-16-2014 06:39 AM|
|Lyana||This doesn't seem to work too well for BGA, should i try again or is there a better way to deal with that?|
|11-13-2014 02:45 PM|
Well, I used over 8 Tbls of 3% peroxide in the 10 gallon tank of Rotala Wallichii and Cabomba Furcata, for over an hour (10 Tbls the last 15 minutes), followed by two 50% water changes, and over 1.5X the dose recommended of Flourish Excel (8ml), which the tank hadn't been exposed to in at least 2 months. Before all this, I had trimmed the heck out of the Rotala and vacuumed the tank, in an attempt to remove this green hair algae, and lowered the light cycle to around 6 hours. I guess I'll be back in a couple months to report what became of it.
|11-12-2014 03:17 PM|
How strong a dose could I try using if the tank doesn't have any fish, just plants? The Cryptocoryne Wendtii is probably the plant that would react first, and I am a bit concerned about it melting away.
A few months ago, I had infected Rotala Wallichii, that I treated pretty aggressively (probably about twice the dose you suggested here) during a transfer, it was do or die for these guys. The tank I put them into did well for a couple months. Even though the plants retained that hunter green color, as if the infection still resided deep inside their physiology, I saw no fuzz anywhere, until now, and I'm wondering, did it come back because the infection was deep, or has it more to do with an imbalance in the tank? Both? I was basically running the tank at 0 nitrate, just some bladder snails in there, and am wondering if that caused the problem to resurface, or should I have not even tried to rehabilitate such infected plants? Can they only be worked with if the infection is only on the surface? There's also some high pH issues in that tank, from a bad purchase of gravel, seems to run at 8 pH.
|10-29-2014 12:04 AM|
|happi||am trying this method on some of my rare plants and see how they handle it, have anyone tried this method on Cyano bacteria? i have a cyno that am trying to kill and some hair algae too.|
|10-16-2014 03:04 AM|
Just tried this on my 6.6g for the second time. Last time it helped a little but not a lot, so hoping for better results.
Today when I went to get the media out of my AC 20, I found one of my Dwarf Emerald rasboras in it, alive and not looking injured or sick!! I pulled out the media and there it was swimming around. Im guessing it swam up the output, because I doubt it would have fit into the intake, or survive the impeller. I took him out for the treatment to be sure the hydrogen peroxide didnt hurt any wounds I didnt see.
|10-08-2014 09:39 PM|
|bigblueallday||I'm going to be using this treatment today to rid myself of a trifecta of BBA bga and gda. How long should I keep my jungle Val out of the tank so that they aren't affect ten by the excel?|
|09-25-2014 07:46 PM|
It seems to have lightened up the algae a little, at least on plants, but some of my anubias are still looking pretty covered - I'm probably going to take everyone out again tonight and hit it again and see if maybe repeated treatments will help.
On the upside, I didn't lose anything
|09-22-2014 10:40 PM|
|BDoss1985||I never took any fish out at full strength, I only had bba not near the algae hell I see there lol. Ready to see your results|
|09-22-2014 08:04 AM|
So I've got a massive diatom outbreak in my 60g goldfish tank, and I'm trying to correct it, but a friend suggested I try this method to help get rid of it so I can start taking care of it.
I did remove all the fish, two nerites, and a marimo because I'm not taking chances (and removing a handful of large goldfish really isn't that difficult,) removed my filter media, dosed at 4 tbslp per 10g, and manually swished the water around because I don't have a bunch of extra powerheads sitting around unfortunately.
There's the before... Hopefully in a few days I see some improvement. After the treatment I did a 50% water change and added everyone back in, so far no fauna are showing any signs of stress so I'm hoping that means everything will be okay.
|09-06-2014 07:31 PM|
^^ No, but I've tried it the other way around. I moved all my fish and fragile species into a hospital tank for a day while I ran the treatment in the main tank.
Algae finds all kinds of nooks and crannies to hide, in substrate, etc., so I'm not sure simply treating only the plants, in a separate tank, would deliver the full results.
|09-06-2014 03:49 PM|
So I've read mention in this thread that people who use the excel/peroxide treatment with otos tend to have mortality issues (dead otos). If I recall, this was doing it as an in-tank treatment.
Has anyone tried removing plants and treating outside the tank, rinsing, then putting in water with extra dechlorinator for a bit before re-adding and NOT lost otos in the tank this way?
I ask because the infect (algae) tank has some pretty special/smart/tolerant (to hands and cleaning stuff in tank) otos compared to the ones in my other tanks + is my husband's tank so I don't want to risk KO-ing his fish.
|09-06-2014 12:20 AM|
Good news though, all the algae looks dead to me. Instead of being green, it's clearish and falling apart.
|09-05-2014 06:19 AM|
With DIY CO2 you really have to stay on top of it from my research, that's the reason why I haven't started to use it on my tank. If I had a 10gal I might give it a try, but on my main tank I'll wait until I can afford a compressed gas system.
Are you using Excel or other glute based organic suppelment?
|09-05-2014 12:31 AM|
|Silly's_Planted||I don't have an iron test kit and I can't really afford one. I definitely can't afford pressurized co2. Teenager problems. Once some of my coral frags grow out a bit, I'll have some money that will most likely go to co2.|
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