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Thread: DIY PAR meter, Yeah you heard me Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
02-01-2017 07:08 PM
Brian Rodgers Fantastic project, glad you are sharing.
02-01-2017 06:18 AM
mistergreen
Quote:
Originally Posted by paronaram View Post
I have some parts for this project if you like ...
Including PCB
I found another use for the pcb by adding on a apogee par sensor.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh....php?t=1122714

Paronaram can sell anybody who wants one.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
02-01-2017 05:19 AM
paronaram I have some parts for this project if you like ...
Including PCB
01-31-2017 08:02 PM
diverjoe This is common for small manufacturing companies. Assumed that you would order larger quantities and would want 30 days like most other purchaser. The $50 min pays for that and setting you up an account on their system etc, etc, etc
08-03-2016 03:05 AM
mistergreen It should work. You would need a different library for your display.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
08-01-2016 05:49 PM
Killavolt This has been a long thread, hopefully it can still garner some activity.

What would need to be done to make this code work with an Arduino Mega 2560 and a ITDB02 or Nextion TFT screen?

I'm wanting to building my own LED lighting controller and I think having a PAR meter built in would be a great feature. This way it could display the PAR value during the different light cycles like sunrise/sunset etc.
10-22-2015 01:59 PM
mistergreen
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubenhak View Post
Dear Mr. Green,
I see you've been through a long journey of building a PAR sensor. May I ask if you have complete instructions on hand? If yes I'd really appreciate if you could share them.

If not, could you give me few pointers. I have few questions here. What is the purpose of Cosine diffuser and how do you use it? Is the Photodiode VTB8441BH submersible? I was thinking to put the sensor into the aquarium for constant monitoring. Will this work with Miniature Solar Cell - BPW34? I'd prefer to use the latter one since it is much smaller.

Also, what is the algorithm to calculate the PAR value from the sensor reading?

Thanks a lot,
Ruben
Hi, It's best to build a water proof housing of the vtb8441bh.
I've also added spectral light filters to the diode to further help with PAR calculations. You can find it here

AquaticTechTank.net ? View topic - DIY PAR meter
10-22-2015 07:10 AM
rubenhak
Quote:
Originally Posted by mistergreen View Post
*Edit 5-10-13
NOTICE - Firmware has been updated for outdoor lighting.

Final product list:

Photodiode: VTB8441BH
price: $4.660
Excelitas Technologies Sensors - VTB8441BH - SILICON PHOTODIODES - Allied Electronics

Cosine diffuser: 1/8" thickness, 2447 white plexiglass
price: varies, get the sample or buy a big sheet of it.
Plexiglass White & Black acrylic sheets
Acrylic 1/8" Tinted & Colored Sheeting | U.S. Plastic Corp.

Basic 16x2 Character LCD - Black on Green 5V
price: $14 but you can get it cheaper on e b a y
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/255

Arduino Uno
price: $30
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10356
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/11021 (newer model)


Diagram
Dear Mr. Green,
I see you've been through a long journey of building a PAR sensor. May I ask if you have complete instructions on hand? If yes I'd really appreciate if you could share them.

If not, could you give me few pointers. I have few questions here. What is the purpose of Cosine diffuser and how do you use it? Is the Photodiode VTB8441BH submersible? I was thinking to put the sensor into the aquarium for constant monitoring. Will this work with Miniature Solar Cell - BPW34? I'd prefer to use the latter one since it is much smaller.

Also, what is the algorithm to calculate the PAR value from the sensor reading?

Thanks a lot,
Ruben
07-02-2015 03:13 AM
rottison mistergreen now that I have my par meter built I need to calibrate it my local club has a apogee meter I can use. Do you do any thing special to calibrate? And how do you calibrate the par meter normaly?
06-11-2015 03:54 AM
rottison that is how I thought it went also just wanted to make sure before it was glued down
06-11-2015 02:39 AM
Quizcat I believe that the diffuser goes into the bottom of the jar first, then you put the filters between the acrylic diffuser and the photo diode, so that light passes first through the diffuser, then through the filters, where it hits the screen of the photo diode. Correct me if I'm wrong Mistergreen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rottison View Post
so in the morning I will make it more permanent but I have 3 colored ronco disk cut to fit the jar and just dropped in then I will glue the photo optic to the diffuser and drop that in and dab a bit of silicon on the edges to hold it in place few hours drying time I should be almost done.
06-11-2015 01:16 AM
rottison so in the morning I will make it more permanent but I have 3 colored ronco disk cut to fit the jar and just dropped in then I will glue the photo optic to the diffuser and drop that in and dab a bit of silicon on the edges to hold it in place few hours drying time I should be almost done.
06-10-2015 11:42 PM
mistergreen The order of the light filters doesn't matter but I would put the diffuser on top.
06-10-2015 08:48 PM
rottison mistergreen does it matter what filter or disk goes to the bottom of the jar fist or in what order
06-07-2015 03:35 PM
mistergreen hmm, interesting. The only thing I can think of is the variance on the voltage regulator and resistors in that chain to the atmega that would give us different results. So it would vary from batch to batch.

The regulator is outputting to 4.99V (middle & right pin)and the resistor by the atmega is 10.05K.

Yeah, there might be too many variance to get an exact number. I guess the only way to calibrate is to use another calibrated CEP with light sensor or a PAR sensor.
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