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  Topic Review (Newest First)
02-23-2013 10:48 PM
Diana Set it all up without glue on the PVC. Hand tighten the slip fit fittings. They will hold long enough for a test. It may leak, but none of these are high enough pressure to actually fall apart. Maybe do this outdoors to be really safe.

Try adjusting the height of each elbow until the system is working for you. Then drain and dry it, and mark the pipes. Glue them.
02-23-2013 04:27 PM
HD Blazingwolf or just get a bigger gravity fed drain line and it'll be just almost as quite, have one drian pipe, and will resist clogging unless a large fish gets in
i have a 1.5 in drain line on my 75 gallon handling 600 GPH
its as quite as my 29 is that has a full sihpon running now

oversize your drain lines. its one of life's little miracles

02-22-2013 12:57 AM
VAtanks agreed, this system is pretty customizable, but works good for incredibly high 800-1000 gallons per hour. of course thats pipe diameter dependant and your inline ball valves being dialed in.
02-21-2013 06:06 AM
scbrooks87 To answer this question is a little tough. Are you going to have a chamber designated for the overflow? If so, you want it set up so the openings of the 2 downturned 90 degree elbows are just below the desired surface level of the water, and then for the third pipe with the upturned 90... you want that a little ways below the top of the tank but above the desired water level, that way it only gets used if the water raises above normal operating depth due the a clog or something. Be ware that this system allows you to control your water level to a degree in the chamber its in, by slowing the siphon you can raise the water, and by opening the siphon it will lower the level... its a fine balance but very effective.
02-20-2013 07:31 PM
VAtanks Attachment 90754
02-20-2013 07:18 PM
VAtanks As to how hight you need to mount the pipes will be determined by the gallons per hour your sump is moving. With the BeanAnimal you have three Standpipes. the first one is just a restricted drain and it will take about 10 percent of your total flow, and will be underwater so very quiet the second is a durso standpipe with an air hose that attaches to it and is suctioncupped to the inside of the over flow. the lenght of hose determines when the siphon action starts, when the water covers the hose and stops the air vent a siphone is started and water will fow, this pipe is to hold 90 percent of the flow. The emergency pipe is the same as the other durso but with the air line cut higher and will function to take the same 90 percent in case of the first pipe being plugged.

So to answer your question on how high you would have to raise your pipes you will need to figure out what size pipes your going to be using, what your overflow box is rated for in Gallons per hour, how much water your moving through your sump and returning to the tank. Once you have that all noodled out as long as the water falling out of the over flow into the sump has a minimal fall, meaning its only dropping maybe 1" above the max water level in the sump its pretty quiet, another way to help reduc noise is when you plumb the drains use 45 degree elbows and slope the water into the sump and have an acrylic lid with the three holes for pipes to fit into. the lid prevents what little splashing there is.

You may or may not have read this article but i thought id link it anyways
02-20-2013 05:45 PM
Overflow Design question...

I'm trying to build this custom tank and I'd like to design it sketchup before I start building. Right now I'm designing the overflow and would like to use the Bean Animal overflow.

My question is, how high or low on the glass do I mount the pipes?

This is my design so far...

I'm assuming the best place would be so the emergency pipe (upturned elbow) is just barely below the wall in the overflow box? I'm assuming if you mounted them lower on the side that you'd potentially get the noise of water flowing over the wall.

So basically, where is the "prime" location for low noise, safety, anti-flooding?

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