|Today 08:02 PM|
|Today 06:57 PM|
|Highlander||Also, if I were to run a separate pump for the reactor, what would you recommend for a 40B? I was looking at a mag 2. I would also like the option to put a uv sterilizer inline with the mag pump if needed in the future along with the reactor. The fluval 406 already has a high turnover rate for a 40 gallon. Do you mind posting or sending me a pic of the set up (inside the tank, not the stand). I just want to see if I think it is too cluttered for my preferences. Lol. Now that I start thinking about it, I think a separate pump is the way to go.|
|Today 06:40 PM|
|Highlander||Thanks, I was hoping you would reply Moose. I intend to keep the relief valve because I want the the ability to purge the air without having to turn the whole thing upside down. Honestly I would like to try and avoid using a separate pump and spray bar. I would like as little as possible in the tank. I will try and just use the Fluval 406 to see if that works, if not then I would probably get a separate pump. So in me leaving the relief valve, could I drill a hole into the head unit and the co2 line in there or is using a tee better?|
|Today 05:13 PM|
|m00se||That's where the bleed off valve used to be and I don't recommend you remove it on a new one. Yes you can interference fit vinyl hose through the hole and yes it will work that way without trouble. You *really* want that valve to be able to purge air out of the unit though. My setup has a separate pump/spray bar and I put the CO2 on the output of the pump with a T to a nipple to CO2 then to the WHF. You could do that too with the output of the canister. That's what I recommend.|
|Today 05:06 PM|
|Today 04:06 PM|
I am getting ready to set up my first high tech tank and bought a 20" filter as recommended here on the thread:
It will be powered by a fluval 406 on a 40B. My question is, what is the consensus on how to deliver the co2? Should I drill the top or use a tee? If a tee then barb up or down? I guess I am planning on putting a ball valve before and after the reactor as well. Thanks
|Yesterday 05:43 PM|
|Chronados||A hose barb|
|Yesterday 05:30 PM|
What is the needle piece called?
|Yesterday 01:11 AM|
if anyone is interested, I have three 90 deg nylon elbows (3/4" x 5/8" barb) left from a cerges build.
meisterluv: if you google images for cerges reactor you can get an idea of how it is put together.
|12-19-2013 05:28 PM|
|meisterluv||so um I'm a visual learner and want to make this reactor. is there a place where the original pictures have been stashed?|
|11-08-2013 11:18 PM|
Cerges 20" with 2217
JUST TO UPDATE:
I receive the 20" canister last weekend and has been using it for couple of days. The added air release button is a requirement for 20" as i will not be able to turn it upside down inside the stand.
I add the bypass line with valve, and leave the one to the cerges line without valve as limited on space to manouver the tubing.
with 2217, I don't seem a need to open the valve on bypass line (or use the bypass line at all) as i really see less/unnoticeable micro bubble return into the tank. Perhaps later if i use bigger filter flow (or if the bubble noticeable after filter maintenance), i might use the bypass line valve. So i decide to leave the valve as it is.
Performance wise compared to ISTA max mix large, is much better.
I can push more CO2 faster (my fish showed a little stress with the cerges in place, so i backed out on BPS) and giving a rest to the solenoid to operate less time (monitored through PH controller).
The DC (4dKH+Bromo) showing YELLOW at 6.1/6.2 mark on PH controller within an hour or less (using ISTA, i have to turned on 2 hour prior light on -- and not even got the YELLOW).
I will monitor for a while using the cerges setup to see if i need further improvement to dissolve CO2.
Thanks Guys for the advice ... !!!
This thread is really helpful ...
|10-17-2013 06:39 PM|
|geesantoz||I just receive my canister for 10" ... unfortunately it come with 1/2" port ... will this work ?|
|10-12-2013 12:49 AM|
|fishyboy||I really doubt you'll need a bypass line with only a 2217.|
|10-11-2013 07:02 PM|
You could always grab one of these bad boys for $55 shipped:
They move a lot of water and you can modify the sponges in them to your heart's content. There are threads here and elsewhere to do it and since it's not your primary filter you could even get creative with the canister contents. Just a thought.
|10-11-2013 06:52 PM|
At the moment, the flow for 2217 seems not enough to give proper circulation that i need ( I use a koralia to help this out ). But this does not mean that cerges will not produce micro bubble. Reducing the 2217 output flow is not an option in my case.
To add another stronger canister filter or a second canister filter as suggested by m00se may be an option, but i try to defer it as a last option (still need to channel the money to other tanks).
I really hope that i can use this bypass method for now. I am planning to use a 10" canister due to tight space i have.
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