|07-30-2013 04:09 PM|
I'd consider a single A150W over my tank, to be asking for a lot. It's a pretty hefty footprint and about the largest I'd want to push that light. It is a solid medium-light intensity, and definitely not high light in my configuration. Not bad though, for only 32 watts over a ~50 gallon tank. If you are looking for the big glorious red stem tanks with only a couple kessils, I'd skip this light. Many people have used kessils in planted tanks, so I'd probably poll the lighting forum to see what people have successfully grown as foregrounds, and their tank configurations (a single A150W over a 18" cube for example, I'd consider high light). If you like to look at this from a PAR perspective, here you go :-D
|07-30-2013 02:52 PM|
|Phil Edwards||I just checked out the light on youtube and am impressed with it. It looks like they give great light near the top for all the stems. My only real concern is getting enough spread and intensity at the substrate to sustain a good foreground.|
|07-30-2013 02:41 PM|
|Gomer||Phil, the Elos is (~30Wx22Dx20H). Early in the thread, you can see how high I had the pendent. I have since dropped it a couple inches. This basically dropped the primary cone of light completely to the water level and I have very little room spill now due to ~total internal reflection.. Let me take a photo tonight and you can see what I mean.|
|07-30-2013 01:25 PM|
What're the dimensions on that tank and how far above the water is your pendant?
|07-30-2013 05:14 AM|
I guess it is about time for an update. Slowly it grows and fills in. Another 6 months and it should be about there :P Dosing sporadically and not much (when deficiencies show up). Water changes about once a month, and top off with DI/DI water. Dealing with a bit of clado, but that's about it, besides the normal film on the glass. A little more balansae wouldn't hurt,, but otherwise happy with where this is going.
|02-22-2013 03:50 PM|
|Gomer||I got a lot of nice plants from him too|
|02-22-2013 03:14 PM|
|Brian Mc||Looking good man, I just got some nice Balansae from Gordon Richards.|
|02-22-2013 02:44 PM|
Thanks. I have about 30 or so plantlets of parva out there. I dont' want a full carpet of it. Right now, they sort of group with the rocks. The marsilea will fill in the foreground.
I have C. crispatula var Balansae (emersed so not tall) in there now. Ordered a pot hoping it would have a few (3-4) plantlets to divide, but only had one large one with some potential runners. I'll likely have to get some more.
|02-22-2013 06:18 AM|
Looks awesome man! I'm getting pumped up for my own crypt only tank I'm gonna make!!!
Some C. Balansae and Spiralis would add some nice tall background plants too if you are looking to go that route. C. Parva is gonna look really cool in the front! I would suggest adding several more pots right now at the beginning because it is a painfully slow grower and won't "fill in" for a good long time haha. So looking forward to seeing this tank evolve! Nice DW/ rocks by the way looks sick!
|02-22-2013 02:46 AM|
C. wendtii x hybrid
C. wendtii green gecko
marsilea (not sure which, but small like minutea)...token non crypt
skipped on the moss but have another use for it.
skipped on submersed anubias petite nana, and stuck it emersed on the tops of the exposed wood.
animals come next week
otos (not sure what species yet)
|02-15-2013 03:48 AM|
Got the sump plumbed. Angry at Aqueon. The 3' drain hose that came with the Proflex Model 1 was metric (just over 1" diameter fitting) and the sump fitting was exactly 1"....coupler wouldn't work. Chopped off the end fitting, and just welded the spa flex over the aqueon fitting with PVC cement. The other fun side was the elos drain which I knew was metric (just over 1.25"). Using a non-traditional implementation of a PVC fitting and some 3M structural plastic 2-part adhesive (and while the adhesive foamed out, sealed over with a big fat heatshrink), I made a section of original metric tubing work with imperial :P This thing isn't leaking anytime soon and passed the 24 leak test with flying colors.
Tank has had water for a few days to start the tanning leach and any residual ammonia from the MTS since I may not have let it fully mineralize.
Trying to get plants here next week. To work with, I'm hopefully going to get:
Marsilea Quad/minutea (not sure what it really is. Stays ~1")
C. wendtii hybrid
Still trying to figure out what fish will eventually go in here.
Still cleaning up the wiring of the sump and CO2 stuff will be here next week.
Water level is a little lower than I'd like by ~ 1/2", but that's because I opted for using the Eheim 1250 that was originally on the skimmer rather than the 1260. I think the 1260 might be too much flow. I might do a little modding to effectively raise the overflow drain level.
(don't mind the cell phone photo quality :P)
|02-12-2013 09:09 AM|
|Chaoslord||I like what you did with the driftwood.|
|02-11-2013 08:15 PM|
Thanks. It's from here
|02-11-2013 06:46 PM|
|FriendsNotFood||Gorgeous hardscape, what kind of wood is that?|
|02-11-2013 05:25 PM|
Gomer's return to planted tanks, tank: fast growers need not apply
Background: A few years back (2003?) I dove headfirst into planted tanks and over the years put together a few scapes. Loved it, but but interupted too many times with sequential job moves, after graduation.
A few months ago, the wife more or less said "I want you to start up a planted tank. I miss them"...who am I to say no?!
The idea : Longevity. Current trends in competition are for the moment of the photo. Most tanks aren't designed for the time before or after the photo (this could be a huge rant/debate thread, so maybe I'll bring that up elsewhere). I'm after a tank for my house and for me, not for a photo. This means planting a tank that will last, and not require constant pruning/replanting to keep it looking like a jungle. So, I'm staying away from very high light. Staying away from stems. Staying away from super fast growers. I'm also employing MTS for substrate. First time using it, and sounds like a good idea for the eventual heavy root feeding crypts.
hardware: I'm re-purposing my old Elos 70 for this tank. The elos sump isn't good for FW, so that is being replaced with a Proflex Model 1. Still working out CO2, but it will be there. Return will probably use the Eheim 1250 instead of 1260 (too much flow?). ATO will be with the original elos osmocontroller and an external tank of water (US Plastics). For lighting, I have available, a pair of Kessil Amazon Sun, but I'm going to see how a single will do. This will be med to med-low on light levels. There will be some extra shadowing with a single point source, but I'm ok with that. I had a pair of 14K kessils over the same tank before when it was a reef.
hardscape materials: Rock, sand and gravel were all collected locally. It took a good amount of rinsing to get rid of most of the organics/silt. I was first thinking of using more contrasting sand-rock, but this is truer to reality since the sand/gravel was originally the rock before weathering/time took hold. The wood is 3 pieces of manzanita, glued to a base rock with IC-Gel.
plants: I don't have any yet :P I'm currently sourcing some and should have it sorted this week. On the list are things like...
Foreground: marselia minuta, parva, petite nana,??
For-mid: wendtii green gecko, petchii, willisii (nervelii?), lucens, ??
Mid: mid-back: affinis, nurii, ??
Back: retro spiralis, spiralis, crispatula, ??
All of this is dependent on what I can come across and what I get inspired by.
(I live in NM, and if I only added a few sparse plants, and a few tumble weeds, then we have ourself a local NA style tank :P)
(1) clean out most of the old reef junk (note, parts of overlow are removed. There won't be a big hole for fish to get sucked into!). Single Kessil mounted. Wire needs routing and painting for SAF. (Note to others making their own kessil mount... the Kessil Goosneck has M10x1 threading). I could have attached the kessel+gooseneck directly to the tank, but I wanted more height. The back alcove (I forget what it is actually called) will probably have other plants that don't need a lot of attention.
(2) Sand/gravel perimeter, with dolomite/murate of potash base in center
(3) Add MTS and cover with sand/gravel. The MTS was higher in organics than I like and didn't hold the clay (the red in the liquid on top) super well. We'll see how it goes. I personally think the soil is only half way through the mineralization process. Probably just means more water changes at first, but not as bad as if I went the classic Walstad topsoil method.
(4) Here is the joining of the wood on a rock base (which sits on the rock shown in the earlier photos). The rock is to also keep things from floating up.
(5) Dump in base sand/gravel to fully cover MTS
(6) figure out what rocks I want to use (I collected way more than I needed. Better to have options. This is not a rockscape, so I wanted to use rocks that add to the overall feel and not overly dominate.
(7) rocks/rubble added.
(8) this is it for now. I'll post more when I have plants :-D