|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-08-2014 02:51 AM|
Originally Posted by jweis View Post
Very nice outcome! How long did the fissedens take to grow across that DW like that?
|07-24-2012 12:30 PM|
Originally Posted by jweis View Post
Here is the parts list:
•http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BJM9G8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER Rio 10HF HyperFlow Water Pump - 660 GPH $41.28
•http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/CompactUVSterilizer.html *¾ inch hose barb inline with ½ inch hose barb ‘T’ with valve for UV Sterilizer-$11.99
•http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumPumpTubing.html#cart Premium Ball Valve $6.99
•http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q9EFUK/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER Weatherproof Outdoor Outlet Remote Control Converter Kit $14.90
•Water Hold ContainterHome Depot $20
One final note. The extra "up bend/arm" in the PVC apparatus isn't really needed. However, if one wants to have a variable drain depth (without having to watch it) then the pivoting arm piece is useful. Jehmco will provide the drawing if you want to build it yourself. I ended up using their drawing and going to Lowes to buy black PVC tubing (found in the lawn sprinkler section) and building my own armless version. The nice thing about the black tubing is that it screws together so no need for smelly PVC glue. Also the black color blends in nicely. The cost for parts at Lowes was under $8.
I've attached a picture of my aquarium. The siphon is located at the back right corner, behind the crypt balanese. It is completely hidden.
|07-23-2012 10:44 PM|
|sketch804||what a great idea, subscribed so I can do this at a later time when I move soon.|
|12-30-2011 06:41 AM|
I don't understand the drain side - won't the filter suck in air? Also with a loop like that, you need to be aware of air building up and interrupting the drain function.
And don't underestimate the pressure in the canister outlet hose, you would need quite a beefy pump.
|12-30-2011 02:10 AM|
Reading this thread has helped me tweak the design of my own soon-to-be semi-automated water changing system.
One thing that I have noticed frequently in this thread is the reminder to turn off the drain valve. There is an easy, fail safe way to not worry about this. Just put a couple of elbows on the intake pipe that is in the aquarium. It will look like an "U" with one of the ends clipped a bit (or a "J" with the short curved part a bit taller). Anyway, the water will only drain to the top of the short bend.
See the attached diagram of my work-in-progress plan. In my case, the water reservoir is fresh water that has sat until it becomes room temperature. I plan to route my old, used water out to the flowerbed. Fortunately for me, the wall behind my tank is an exterior wall, so I with one hole I have easy access to the outside.
Also I am interested in constructive criticism of my design. Hopefully I will be able to do this right the first time without a big puddle in my living room. I am the wife, so I would be mad at myself!
|12-03-2011 05:33 PM|
Thanks! Buzz Lightyear back in green. That pink was starting to gnaw on my confidence.
This cheap water change was always meant to be done semi-manually. I had to open up something to drain, turn it off (don't forget!) and then wait for it to refill (although it would shut off automatically, hopefully).
Back then I did weekly water changes. With my new 250gal tank, I wanted daily WC's, and I want them to go on while I am away for a few weeks. That's why I did the passive overflow, and I would recommend that to anyone who doesn't believe that two valves will always be reliable.
|12-03-2011 02:58 AM|
You know I wanted to do 10 gallons a night mostly for water quality and the health of the inhabitants, but to be honest all the extra cash to keep me from hitting a power switch, a ball valve, and a key fob, just might be over the top.
I'm not saying it won't happen because I did figure it out and I would just need 2 automated valves and a controller and it could be done and I like the thought of my fish getting 10 fresh ones daily, it would probably increase spawns etc.
But for now I'll chill and ponder rather than spend and attach.
Wasser your threads always get me so inspired to go above and beyond, so I think we should change your screen name to either "Buzz Lightyear" or Inspector Gadget" thank for making me think.
BTW: it's nice to see you wearing green again!
|12-03-2011 02:26 AM|
I think I want to try something like this, I am setting up my tank with new plumbing in small steps, most of the big items have been purchased and some of the work has been done.
My 150 sits in the room next to the garage, so I have installed a CPVC intake/outlet connected to 2 2217 canisters, so right now I can screw on my Python under the tank, turn a valve and it will drain, if I hook the other end to the sink it gets filled, but during this time I turn of my filter & in line heater & in line CO2 reactor plus use the quick connect shut off on each canister intake side so the house water pressure won't push water back through the filters, so this may not work but see what you think.
So now to complete the WC plumbing I need to extend my plumbing through the wall into the garage make a 90 and go though the front block wall of the house so the fertilized water will dump into my flower bed, easy.
On the outlet side I need to do the same thing but go to my RO/DI holding tank which will have a pump and heater installed along with a shut off float as the tank gets full. Up to this point I was going manual so I purchase 2 remote power outlet controls that would allow me to turn on that pump with a key fob.
So this is what I need to do
1. shut off tank completely
2. by pass filters somehow, or else I'll have a plume of sediment every night
3. drain tank - 10 gallons nightly
4. fill tank
5. return power to tank
6. keep sleeping while this happens
I know it's going to be simple but for the moment it escapes my mind.
Edit: it's comming to me I just had to say it out load, to you, with my keyboard.
|06-19-2010 07:55 AM|
|familyman03||Out of sheer morbid curiousity would a cooler float not be the same thing and probably a whole lot cheaper. Also are you turning this into an automated top-off if so what do you have in mind for a secondary fail safe?|
|03-20-2010 05:58 AM|
Originally Posted by WhiteDevil View Post
|03-19-2010 07:17 PM|
ok thanks, I musta missed it, printed out and put on the project board. Thanks
I might just suck it up and drill a hole in my brand new wall to get the water from the holding tank to the sump.
Now this float valve, how does it attach since it will be in a sump and not the lip of the aquarium?
|03-19-2010 07:00 PM|
See post #24 for the diagram. If you want to refill evaporated water from a holding tank, and the holding tank is above your sump, you could just add a simple float valve like I used originally.
If not, put a pump in the holding tank, and a float switch into the sump.
|03-19-2010 06:44 PM|
Do you have a diagram of this?
I wont be using my tap supply but will be using a 45g ro/tap mix holding tank, I am sure it works the same way but I am more concerned at the tank level of this. I have a sump on my tank and I blow thru 1-2 gallons every 3-5 days and am getting tired of the gallon jug refill method.
Tremen, you need some MTS snails. I havnt seen a speck of dookie since I got them in the tank. kinda gross but hey if they like it, let em eat it all.
|03-19-2010 06:06 PM|
Originally Posted by Wasserpest View Post
|03-19-2010 03:20 PM|
Only on rare, special occasions. Sometimes in older tanks, if the growth diminishes, perhaps it is time to add some substrate fertilizer. And before doing that, I vacuum the area a bit.
If you have certain algae, or cyanobacteria (BGA) vacuuming can be a method for mechanical removal.
To remove larger plants (swords), pulling them up a little, then vacuuming the area, can reduce the dust storm that otherwise develops. Or when removing and replanting ground cover, the area might have accumulated detritus, and before pulling them out it might be worth to clean up the area a bit.
If you have big poopers like Plecos, vacuuming helps to reduce their heaps excrement.
But normally, I don't vacuum established, healthy, understocked tanks.
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