|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-23-2013 02:25 AM|
|aquah20||What's to prevent the heater from melting the pvc is it touching the sides?|
|02-02-2013 04:29 PM|
Heyco still takes sample requests so I ordered some samples and I ended up getting the wrong size I think. I used the same product id and it's a little small.
what is the size you need for this ?
5. 1- Heyco Product #8437 (Watertight Cordgrip) (Can be order FREE at http://ecommerce.heyco.com/dev/newsa...ample?OpenForm )
Here is the link to order samples
|01-31-2010 06:26 AM|
can we get some pic updates, they dont work.
I really want to do this but im a picture kind of guy.
|01-31-2010 05:15 AM|
|JennaH||heyco cord grips are backordered|
|01-28-2010 10:59 PM|
|gotfrogs||It all seems to be working. The tank has been running for a week now and I have not had any problems.|
|01-21-2010 01:07 AM|
I finished all of the plumbing and sliliconed the background in place. Hopefully I will have the tank full of water with no leaks this weekend!
|01-19-2010 10:41 PM|
I went ahead and added a bleed valve up near the top of the heating chamber.
Hopefully my heater and intake strainer get delivered today and I can start gluing everything together.
|01-18-2010 10:01 PM|
|gotfrogs||I ordered it from mouser PN 836-8438. They are out of the black one but have the gray (836-8438) in stock. I am not really concerned with having an even flow distribution. I am using a really big filter/pump so even if I only get 10% of the flow directed over the heater I don't think this will be a problem. I am concerned with air building up in the heater chamber. Adding a bleed valve may be the best option.|
|01-18-2010 08:38 PM|
One problem when you divide the flow into two parallel paths is that there is no guarantee that each path will get anywhere near 50% of the flow. The path with the heater might be restricted enough to get only 10% of the flow, for example. You almost have to use flow control valves in each line to equalize the flows.
You can add a bleed valve at the top of the heater path, and use that to bleed off any air bubble. Then occasionally you can bleed it again just to be sure no air is collecting.
|01-18-2010 07:54 PM|
Originally Posted by gotfrogs View Post
BTW, where did you get the piece that seals your jager heater into the pvc T. I've seen them mentioned in old threads before, but could never find a link to merchant that would actually work.
|01-18-2010 07:41 PM|
What are your thoughts on my setup? I am setting up a 58 gallon tank and want/need the heater to be external. I am using a Fulval FX5 and have it T-off into two return lines, one of which passes over a 200 watt jager heater. I have not glued everything together yet but want to do so tomorrow. My fear is that air is going to get traped in the top of the heater section and not provide enough water contact with the heater.
|10-17-2009 01:51 PM|
I'm looking to do the same but over here in the UK.
It's with a hydor 25w heater as I don't want it to be in my 12" x 10" x 8" tank.
I'm having trouble finding the end connectors, such as the cord grips? They might be called something else over there.
In addition, how do the filter hoses get connected to this?
I have a 40mm PVC tube with the tee and the bend section, it's just the rest!
Any help is appreciated.
|10-01-2009 02:42 PM|
Originally Posted by zavikan View Post
Btw, has anyone tried this with a stealth heater? My only concern is that the stealth heaters have those four groves along the body. Would that prevent it from getting a perfect seal?
|06-11-2009 02:06 AM|
|Hilde||Any pictures of design? A list of pieces used?|
|06-10-2009 11:52 PM|
Originally Posted by SpeedEuphoria View Post
I used mine upsidedown, to avoid a co2 bubble from making problems. I have not gotten a response anywhere to find if this was the problem.
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|