|02-02-2013 08:10 PM|
Half-moons are beautiful! At the moment I am temporarily housing an elephant ear plakat in a Marina Breeder Box. It's hooked to the side of an 8g shrimp nano w/sump. Maybe that would work for you? Finnex has them as well, they get continuous water changes from an uptube... Below is a view of the box with him in it. Think it cost $16? and I hooked an old airpump for upflow...
Best of luck with your half-moon and tank!
PS-sorry about the photo quality, but this one shows the box best...
|02-02-2013 07:49 PM|
|wendyjo||Be sure to keep the container covered if it's not a tank with a lid/hood - they will jump out of even the smallest opening. Having said that, also be sure he has enough air at the top to breathe.|
|02-02-2013 07:38 PM|
|@marko@||it means his rays wont curls as easily as a crowntails, so soft water is not too important. but otherwise, they are all the same in terms of care, with the exception of giants (the only difference with them being they need bigger tanks, and more food).|
|02-02-2013 02:52 PM|
Thanks! I'll do the 50/50 water.
He's a halfmoon, btw. If that matters.
|02-02-2013 02:15 PM|
hard water is ok. if he is a crowntail, it can thin and/or curl his rays, but its not unhealthy for him.
RODI is no good. it needs some minerals in it.
but what i do is mix my hard tap water with RODI to make soft water. that is the best solution. try a 1:1 mix.
1 gal is ok. just is gonna need daily 50% or more WCs. the prime used for the water change should bind up any ammonia made until the next one. heat is important. 76-82F.
|02-02-2013 12:57 PM|
I've got a heater, and keeping a second batch of treated water ready is a good idea. I'll look for a plant too.
Is hard tap water ok? Or my house's softened water? GH and KH are off the charts in both.
I have RO/DI available as well, where everything is zeroed out and PH is around 6-6.5.
|02-02-2013 05:17 AM|
Tbh nothing fancy. Get him at least 2g, a heater is a must (do not pass it up, you simply cannot.), a bubbler is not needed in any way nor is a filter, really. If you filter the tank it cannot be a strong one or the fish's tail will be ripped right off in a small tank. If you get one, put pre-filter sponge over the intake and watch that it won't knock the fish around and blow out its fins.
I've kept bettas for years- The ones who have temp. homes usually get a QT type tank, heater and thermometer, no gravel (what's the sense?), and some sort of decor which is not sharp in any way; silken plants or live are best. If you're getting an uncycled temp. tank, just use floaters if you can get/have them: frogbit, duckweed, water lettuce, etc. I would argue your water should not be room temp- especially if you're in winter where you are. Your barely 70'F water is too cold for this type of fish; opt for tap water around the same that you removed and replace with that. With a heater aim for 75-8'F, constant. I would never leave my splendens tanks to be at the mercy of my house's temp. fluxes in winter, or any other season.
Change the water halfsies each week and up to a full change once a week. It depends very heavily on your tank size. Test the water and check it, no sense in mucking around with it. Make sure the fish is properly acclimated each change and you're set.
Be very VERY careful when you unbox your fish- there is a good and bad way of going about it! Stressed out bettas who are poorly unboxed often bite up their fins and ruin that beautiful form you wanted. Open in a dark room, check to see if its alive, gradually re-introduce to light, then a looonnngg acclimation.
|02-02-2013 04:01 AM|
In that small of a tank, an air-stone would probably be more of a detriment than benefit unless it was *very* low power---too many bubbles in a small space leaves nowhere for the betta to get way from them and rest. And, after all, labyrinth fish--able to take air from the surface, so air exchange not as big an issue as it might be for a similar bioload with a different fish.
Biggest thing is keeping a good temp and pristine water conditions with regular water changes. Easiest method is really to get two containers and keep a supply of treated,aged water on hand to do an easy daily 100% change.
Rinse empty container with water, transfer over any hardscape/plant material, fill part way, scoop (or pour-some vases lend themselves to an easy transfer, some don't) betta in, fill the rest of the way. Dump and rinse the previous vase. Top off whatever water storage container(s) you're using so you'll be ready with treated, aged and room-temperature water for the next change.
+1 on providing at least some plant material. Even a freshly trimmed pothos (terrestial plant) or amazon sword leave floated in the bowl will give the betta some sense of shelter and something to explore.
|02-02-2013 03:33 AM|
|wicca27||lots of water changes keep it some place warm betta's like upper 70's and good food i would put some kind of plant in there even if its just a buntch of stemp plants from a pet shop cause they like places to lay and rest. an airstone would be good too.|
|02-02-2013 03:03 AM|
Temporary Betta Home Questions
Ok so I'm in the middle of setting up a permanent betta home, but came across a sweet betta on aquabid I couldn't pass up. So I'm going to need to house him in a temporary container for 3-4 weeks until the new tank cycles. What should I do as far as water type, water changes, etc? This is quite an expensive betta, not to mention I would feel terrible if he croaked, so I want to give him the best temp home possible until he can be transferred to his permanent home. I know they are pretty hardy in general but I would like a specific goal to strive for. At the most his temp home will be 1g.