|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-28-2013 06:29 PM|
|01-28-2013 03:37 PM|
Though, I'd much rather prefer a G1S graded plywood if it'll be visible though.
|01-28-2013 03:00 PM|
Originally Posted by scapegoat View Post
|01-28-2013 02:57 PM|
Originally Posted by GraphicGr8s View Post
|01-28-2013 02:42 PM|
|scapegoat||use plywood graded with one side for staining. you'll get the finished top and you won't run into warping. or masonite and veneer|
|01-28-2013 02:25 PM|
I never said that everything needed breadboard edges. It is however a tried and true technique to hide wood movement. There are others of course.
And in some places you don't need to hide the problem. Like on a picnic table. Or barn doors. But have you ever noticed that a solid wood top on a table (like a dining room table) is never glued down. And in fact the screws that attach it are in elongated holes? Or in clips in grooves? That's to account for wood movement.
Dry wood to start is great. But it needs to be acclimated before the first cut is made. And it should be acclimated again after the last is made before it's glued up. Especially if it's been face planed.
If a piece is kept in a home with a relatively consistent moisture level than any warping would be minimal any way.
|01-28-2013 04:54 AM|
People use glue, pocket joinery, and straps all the time to make box lids, table tops, simple barn-style doors, whatever, without any breadboard edges. My picnic table sat out in the yard for ten years, and none of the boards ever warped or cupped.
evilhorde, IMO you are overthinking it a little. Unless your lumber is not all the way dried for some reason, you should not develop any spots that would be high enough to be fatal to the tank.
|01-28-2013 01:57 AM|
Joining the boards to make a single width. With construction grade lumber more than likely you will see the grain curve around the end. It will warp towards the center of the tree. Join the boards with all the rings in the same direction and it warps in a circle. Alternate them and it warps like a wave.
That wood warps is why you never see a paneled door with the panel glued to the stiles and rails. They float in the grove. Glued together it could split the door or you'd see cracks where the boards were glued together. It's also why craftsmen use plywood with a solid wood edging. People talk about plywood cabinets, etc. being lower quality but in reality are the better made.
One way to minimize warp is to seal all six sides in polyurethane. It is a solid coating and minimizes moisture changes in wood. Won't eliminate them but slows it down.
|01-27-2013 05:50 PM|
|golfer_d||I am doing this one as well only I am going to make it half the size (I am only putting a 10 gallon on it).|
|01-27-2013 05:24 PM|
Originally Posted by evilhorde View Post
I agree that you should have some kind of bracing on the back. Maybe not a full "X," but just some corner bracing cut from 2x4s.
|01-27-2013 04:30 PM|
Originally Posted by GraphicGr8s View Post
What if I put a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 plywood under the 2x6's and glued/screwed them together? That should keep the 2x6's flat shouldn't it?
Or at least keep them from warping any more than they are when I buy them. I can run a sander over the top before staining to achieve a 'flat now' suface but I wonder if it will warp up the first day it doesn't have a full tank on top of it.
This concern about warping is probably just paranoia on my part but I like to cover all the bases before I cut once.
|01-27-2013 01:24 AM|
Originally Posted by thelub View Post
|01-26-2013 08:05 PM|
I would use the middle shelf on only half the unit, and leave the other bay larger, more open for canister filter, CO2 or other large things.
2 x 4 is plenty strong enough. No need to go to 4 x 4 in the corners.
X across the back, or even a sheet of plywood as a shear panel would be a very good idea.
I also would not use the 2 x 6 top, 3/4" plywood would be very strong, or add perhaps 1/2" or thinner plywood on top of the 2 x 6 for a more uniform surface. Even a sheet of Styrofoam might be enough if the top was well made, very uniform.
Most of my stands are 2 x 4 on edge, boxes that exactly fit the bottom rim of the tank. Most of my tanks are glass tanks designed to sit on their rim.
Sit those boxes on concrete blocks. Add 1/2" Styrofoam to even out any irregularities in the wood.
My acrylic tanks are fully supported. I used manufactured stands and sheets of Styrofoam for them.
|01-26-2013 07:32 PM|
Looks like it will be sufficient, but if you're concerned, you can add corner reinforcement brackets. Or go overboard & use 4x4 fence posts on the 4 corners.
Not sure if you want to leave shelves below completely open, because it wouldn't give you any place to hide the equipment/wires.
|01-26-2013 06:54 PM|
|thelub||Thats a good design to work off of. For a 45 long you shouldn't need extra x-braces in the back. Your biggest concern will be to make absolutely sure the top is flat and level so you don't break any of the seams in your tank. It wouldn't hurt to put a nice piece of plywood on top to provide a flat level surface for the tank to sit on.|
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