|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|Today 02:08 AM|
|Hunter73||Lots of good mods in this thread. Thanks to everyone who has contributed. Has anyone came up with a mod for the lid? I can't stand how it fits with power cords under it.|
|11-16-2015 11:57 PM|
Hi, great forum/thread. Read all your suggestions on modifying fluval tanks. Great ideas. I've just removed the plastic section from my Fluval Spec thanks to the wonderful video I found on Youtube. No more filter problems.
|11-09-2015 04:52 PM|
Been testing this mod for the past few days and have to share it with you all. I recently noticed the formation of a film on the surface of my fluval spec iii, so I set out to fix the problem. I went online and researched solutions, eventually deciding to order an inTank protein skimmer. IME it did help some, but the top of the water was not crystal clear like I was looking for. Feeling diy, I went to my local hardware store and bought a black paint tray (the ones you use with a roller brush). This was perfect because the material (Polyethylene Terephthalate) would be aquarium safe and the shape of the paint tray would later prove to be perfect for my application.
The idea was to create something similar to the inTank skimmer, but mine would cover all of the grills instead of leaving open gaps on the sides (which shrimp can get sucked in to!). With the paint tray in hand, I cut a flat rectangle out of the bottom and zip tied it over the spec's intake grill. A little while later, I looked back to see how the skimmer was doing and... nothing was flowing over it! The surface tension of the water was too great and the water was simply taking the path of least resistance and going through the vent at the bottom of the tank (you all know the hole I'm talking about). So I plugged up that hole and set out on my next and final design. This design utilized the shape of the paint tray more, taking advantage of its sides which had ridges and curves.
Maybe it because I plugged up the bottom "vent" hole this time, but the new design worked! The top of the water is now free from any and all scum. And I have the added bonus of a consistent water level in the front of the tank, with only the level in the back compartment fluctuating (make sure to top off back there on occasion or you risk damaging your pump! I hope I did a good job explaining this, it's quite a hard process to put into words. For anyone looking to buy the same paint tray as me, I got it from Ace Hardware. And for those of you who are eyeballing my beard moss i'm still cycling the tank, it should be clearing up soon!
|11-09-2015 03:18 AM|
Just threw together this mod last night and felt I had to share! I noticed some surface scum in my fluval iii with the stock configuration, so I took it upon myself to make it a more effective skimmer! I tried a few different designs, but I found the best way was to buy a paint tray and cut the skimmer out of that. The reason being that the paint tray has little protruding rectangles on its sides which make the perfect shape for our skimmer when cut out. Hopefully this picture will clear up my poor explanation. With the shape cut out, it was simply a matter of zip tying it over the grate an we were ready to go! The reason the shape of the paint tray is great is because those protruding rectangles cause the surface of the skimmer (where touches the water) to break the surface tension, something that a straight piece of plastic would struggle with. Here's some more pictures of the skimmer... let me know if you guys have any questions. Oh and I almost forgot, I had to plug up the little slits (the one on the bottom and the one on top) to make the design work, but now it works amazingly! I honestly can't believe this isn't how its designed out of the box!
|11-04-2015 02:56 PM|
I created a third chamber in the filter compartment of my spec III. Now, I have a middle compartment that the water flows up through, past my mini heater and then over and down to the pump. The temperature in my tank is now very stable at 80 degrees with a 10w betta heater where I could never get it to change with a 25w heater.
Here are the materials I used:
1 x Dollar store cutting board (thin and stiff)
1 x Silicone airline tubing (I bought 8ft but only needed 17")
1 x hot glue stick and hot glue gun
First, measure your space to determine how wide and tall the divider needs to be. Mine was about 2 1/32"w x 7"h. The height was determined by the lowest point in my filter intake grill and just a bit shorter to make sure there will always be flow so long as water is coming in to the filter. The width was determined by the piece needing to be close to snug but still having about 1/16" of space for the airline tube (gasket) to make it water tight. After you make your first cut, dry fit. If it is too big, cut again and dry fit again. If it is now snug but not tight, proceed to the gasket.
Second, cut one piece of airline tube that will go the width of your divider piece. Split it down the middle and place it on the bottom of your divider. Glue it on with the hot glue.
Third, cut 2 pieces of airline tube to 7" minus a bit to account for the airline tube that is already on the bottom. Split them down the middle and slide on both sides but DO NOT GLUE YET. Now dry fit again.
If the divider doesn't slide in snug, pull the side gasket line off and cut a small amount from the divider (you can't put material back on... go slowly). Put the side gasket back on and do it again. Dry fit, dry fit, dry fit.
Once everything is the way you like it, hot glue the side gaskets on and slide it in. Place your heater in the center of the three compartments so water is forced to flow up past it before going over and down into the pump compartment on the opposite side of the filter chamber.
|10-12-2015 02:54 AM|
|sockfish||This is a great thread, thanks to all the contributors. I've been thinking about how to mod this for a Betta and I see some of the things I thought up mentioned here as workable. Might just use my 20% Petco coupon and try this tank.|
|09-11-2015 07:29 PM|
Originally Posted by Zellner View Post
|09-05-2015 03:40 AM|
My betta managed to leap through the small hole on a Spec II about a month ago... He will splash the surface if I leave the light on too long (letting me know it's time for lights-out). That time I think he misjudged and jumped straight out. Luckily I was sitting nearby and scooped him back into the tank right away and he made it.
I have a spec V I'll be setting up soon. That light sits a lot closer to the opening so probably harder for fish to jump, but just letting you know it could be possible.
|09-04-2015 08:53 PM|
Originally Posted by wheels0417 View Post
I have clown Killis with no issues, and they are also supposed to be jumpers. It would be pretty hard to make it out the hole and miss the light.
|09-04-2015 01:16 AM|
|wheels0417||Has anyone had any trouble with fish jumping out of the hole in the lid? I am considering marble hatchetfish since they are smaller and heard they can jump. Just seeing if they should be fine or if I should get some plastic to cover up the top.|
|08-26-2015 01:50 AM|
Originally Posted by dru View Post
I'm trying to figure that out. I got some 1/2" ID silicone hose from Amazon. It will work but it seems just slightly larger than the stock part. I have a question in to Hagen and I will see what they say.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|08-24-2015 05:02 PM|
|dru||Has anyone sourced the soft flexible tubing that connects to the pump?|
|08-24-2015 01:49 AM|
|The Big Buddha||I just cut a piece of filter foam the same length and width of the stock foam at about 2" high, to fill the remaining void above the stock foam. Just stuff it in there on top of the stock one and problem solved. You can also just raise the stock foam above the water line for the same effect.|
|08-23-2015 10:21 PM|
Originally Posted by Technik View Post
|04-30-2015 12:16 AM|
Originally Posted by dru View Post
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