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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-22-2013 05:48 PM
nicholz
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deano85 View Post
Do you know the cause of the failures?

Not sure if bulbs burnt out or drivers failed but either way the fixtures no longer function.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
12-22-2013 03:16 PM
Deano85
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholz View Post
I echo this experience just on a smaller scale. In less than a year 9/12 of the mix of 20watt floods and 10watt rgbs have failed - stay away! - not worth it for these. Works great until they do not work anymore.
Ben
Do you know the cause of the failures?
12-21-2013 06:43 PM
nicholz
Quote:
Originally Posted by ReluctantHippy View Post
My experience with cheap Chinese LED floodlights:

I have purchased 15 10w, 6 20w, 6 50w, and the fish store I work for ordered an additional 20 20w fixtures. These were from three different manufacturers: VVME and two ebay distributors - internals and casings were almost identical on all but drivers varied with one, screws and wire caps varied on all. So far (all purchased less than 8 months ago) between the store and me all but 14 of the units have stopped working. So of the 47 purchased less than 30% are still working after less than a year.

They are very cheap and provide very nice light while they operate but don't expect to get much life out of the units. In every instance it was a failure of the driver which can be purchased for very cheap but it gets to be a bit of a headache repairing them all the time.

I will admit that my lights were being run in a hot environment often in the high 80s to high 90s. Perhaps the drivers wouldn't have burnt out somewhere cooler.

Only one of these is of the original I installed. Two of the replacements lights have failed in the last week:



A few of the lights I've repaired; I started mounting the drivers to larger heat syncs to get a bit more life out of them:



Always have to have backup drivers on hand:



Just part of the graveyard:



I was a big fan the first couple months but at this point I'm wishing I just purchased a legitimate aquarium light.
I echo this experience just on a smaller scale. In less than a year 9/12 of the mix of 20watt floods and 10watt rgbs have failed - stay away! - not worth it for these. Works great until they do not work anymore.
Ben
10-07-2013 03:21 AM
aroos_tpt I am slowly talking myself into getting another aquarium. I want it to be large (120 gal) and well planted, of corse.
LED flood lights were my initial idea for lighting, but was afraid that eBay ones won't last. The post above seems to confirm that to certain point. I am also not 100% sure if the light spectrum of flood lights will be sufficient for good plant grow.
Now, reading your posts above I got curious about E27 led bulbs. I saw on eBay there are also bulbs for hydroponic plant grow that I could mix in for better plant grow.

I was wondering if anyone tried those hydroponic plant grow in aquarium and if they worked. Of course their light colour isn't pretty but they would be supporting lighting to normal bulbs.
Is it too much? Would the light cause algae bloom?
Does anyone have experience with E27 bulbs? Do they provide sufficient light? Or would I need like 100 of them?
As I mentioned its a fresh idea and any advice will be much appreciated. Or please, talk me out if it if it's a bad idea.
09-19-2013 09:20 PM
TaDoey So which should i get? Floodlights or the other? Looking to get highlight on my 20 long
09-19-2013 01:38 PM
micheljq
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hilde View Post
Got a link to the tank?

Do the bulbs run hot? I find the flood light runs hot.
I did not try them yet. Right now I have a Beamswork 36" led fixture and I added (one month ago) one led buld 9W - 6500K just over my rotalas rotundifolia. Rotalas are growing fine, but are not rose, so I am looking at a more powerful PAR38 light. I can tell how it goes when I have one.

I can say that the 9W bulb stay cool.

Michel.
09-19-2013 03:24 AM
jeffkrol
Quote:
Originally Posted by ReluctantHippy View Post
If they came with plugs I probably wouldn't complain; For the price you can treat them just like a bulb and replace every 6 months, of course this does negate the lifespan advantage of having LEDs. Although it doesn't take long having to rewire new ones gets to be a pain.

I've never had a problem with my CFLs, PCs, and HID ballasts running in the same hot room.
I've used the "big" CFL's for yard lights.. Not impressed w/ "longetivity".. As to CFL's for the house.. Hit and miss.. mostly miss. For one, early CFL's required 1) base down and 2) no enclosure..
HID's never used..
Halogens.. great bulbs but mostly heat.. Same w/ HID's though.

The thing is.. it's not the LED's that are the problem...

As always .. YMMV.....

Site w/ bulb replacement chart:
http://www.marinedepot.com/96W_Power...SQNWDB-vi.html

Now you are replacing a $5 driver every 6 months as compared to........And scrap aluminum has a higher value than scrap steel. And no mercury waste.. AFAIKT..though I'm sure there is some lead.
09-19-2013 01:08 AM
Hilde
Quote:
Originally Posted by micheljq View Post
I would also check PAR30, PAR38, PAR46 lights E27 screw bulbs on Ebay.

I use a 9W led buld with my led fixture right now over rotalas, thinking of replacing it with a 14W (7 X 2W) led PAR38 bulb - 6500K. The 9W bulb can be used in my house.
Got a link to the tank?

Do the bulbs run hot? I find the flood light runs hot.
09-18-2013 11:19 PM
ReluctantHippy
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
SAD but not unexpected.. considering the source..
Fortunately , considering the prices I remember.. most of your "expense" went to aluminum and the LED..
And yes heat is a killer for this (as it is for electronic ballasts in HO and compact fluorescents).
I'd be curoius to see how many of those bad drivers were the failure of the cheap power capacitors inside..
If they came with plugs I probably wouldn't complain; For the price you can treat them just like a bulb and replace every 6 months, of course this does negate the lifespan advantage of having LEDs. Although it doesn't take long having to rewire new ones gets to be a pain.

I've never had a problem with my CFLs, PCs, and HID ballasts running in the same hot room.
09-18-2013 05:56 PM
jeffkrol
Quote:
Originally Posted by ReluctantHippy View Post
My experience with cheap Chinese LED floodlights:

In every instance it was a failure of the driver which can be purchased for very cheap but it gets to be a bit of a headache repairing them all the time.

I will admit that my lights were being run in a hot environment often in the high 80s to high 90s. Perhaps the drivers wouldn't have burnt out somewhere cooler.
SAD but not unexpected.. considering the source..
Fortunately , considering the prices I remember.. most of your "expense" went to aluminum and the LED..
And yes heat is a killer for this (as it is for electronic ballasts in HO and compact fluorescents).
I'd be curoius to see how many of those bad drivers were the failure of the cheap power capacitors inside..
09-18-2013 05:12 PM
micheljq I would also check PAR30, PAR38, PAR46 lights E27 screw bulbs on [Ebay Link Removed] They now make affordable ones, you only have to screw in, and they are less bulky. They make 14 watts, even more powerful versions at an affordable price. I saw 36W versions.

I use a 9W led buld with my led fixture right now over rotalas, thinking of replacing it with a 14W (7 X 2W) led PAR38 bulb - 6500K. The 9W bulb can be used in my house.

Michel.
09-18-2013 04:33 PM
ReluctantHippy My experience with cheap Chinese LED floodlights:

I have purchased 15 10w, 6 20w, 6 50w, and the fish store I work for ordered an additional 20 20w fixtures. These were from three different manufacturers: VVME and two ebay distributors - internals and casings were almost identical on all but drivers varied with one, screws and wire caps varied on all. So far (all purchased less than 8 months ago) between the store and me all but 14 of the units have stopped working. So of the 47 purchased less than 30% are still working after less than a year.

They are very cheap and provide very nice light while they operate but don't expect to get much life out of the units. In every instance it was a failure of the driver which can be purchased for very cheap but it gets to be a bit of a headache repairing them all the time.

I will admit that my lights were being run in a hot environment often in the high 80s to high 90s. Perhaps the drivers wouldn't have burnt out somewhere cooler.

Only one of these is of the original I installed. Two of the replacements lights have failed in the last week:



A few of the lights I've repaired; I started mounting the drivers to larger heat syncs to get a bit more life out of them:



Always have to have backup drivers on hand:



Just part of the graveyard:



I was a big fan the first couple months but at this point I'm wishing I just purchased a legitimate aquarium light.
09-10-2013 06:23 PM
Basil Wanted to bump this back up. Good affordable lights and its led so less power used!
08-23-2013 04:43 PM
jeffkrol
Quote:
Originally Posted by TaDoey View Post
How much current would all three in a parallel pull?

Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk 4
2-6Amps on the DC side.. I doubt if it anywhere near 6 though..
(3x times the driver rating)..

As to AC.. whatever the lamp states x3 ..Most likely a whopping amp or less...
(3x the fixture rating)
Best guessitimate:
Quote:
Dependent upon model selected:
• 8 to 26 Fixture Watts
• 6 to 24 LED Watts
26 "fixture watts" =0.24A x 3= 0.72A
Quote:
Light- 60W LED 3 W 0.30 A
http://www.metrosolarmatics.com/appl...alculator.html

For further review:
Quote:
Dimming
The dimmability of LED MR16 lamps is largely unknown at this time. The CALiPER program tested
five LED MR16 replacements with 10 different dimmers. One of the LED MR16 lamps claimed to be
dimmable, two provided no indication regarding dimmability, and two had product literature stating they
were not dimmable. Upon testing, it was found that all five LED MR16 products were dimmable with at
least half of the sample dimmers, including magnetic low-voltage, electronic low-voltage, and electro-
magnetic (standard, resistive-type for incandescentlamps) dimmers. Unlike halogen MR16 lamps that
shift to lower CCT values, the LED MR16 replacements that were tested have stable color when dimmed
http://apps1.eere.energy.gov/buildin...mark_11-08.pdf
08-23-2013 01:58 PM
TaDoey
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkrol View Post
Yes...just like you would do w/ a power strip... 3 into 1..
Just wire all the AC in parallel to one plug...



The lights are AC.. no positive or negative.. just phase... shouldn't make any difference but stick w/ all one color..
How much current would all three in a parallel pull?

Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk 4
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