|01-25-2013 08:49 PM|
|01-25-2013 04:41 AM|
|01-25-2013 04:35 AM|
|01-25-2013 03:18 AM|
|Hoppy||My tank is a low light tank now. I have used about 20 micromols of PAR for most of the past year, and algae is a very minor problem. For awhile I had it at 25-30 micromols of PAR, and was seeing a little more algae than I wanted to, near the top of the tank, which caused me to drop the intensity to about 20 micromols. This is with a LED light, and measured PAR with the Quantum meter, adjusting the LED driver current to lower the PAR. I think 25 is a better number for plant growth, but, with DIY CO2 the plants do well with 20. A lot depends on how much algae you are willing to accept - meaning how much maintenance is too much from your perspective.|
|01-25-2013 02:33 AM|
|Rush3737||Okay, so then I'll be at 50 Par, which could still very well lead to an algae problem according to what I read, which is exactly the quote you posted. This means I should at least go about 5 inches above the tank with the light I think.|
|01-25-2013 02:07 AM|
Actually the corrected chart is this one:
The chart you posted was before Hoppy realized the Lux to PAR conversion factor was off making it appear the light did much better than it really does. It still does a good job for a cheap fixture.
The updated chart now makes it appear that the diamond plate fixture is not that much better than a regular white painted surface shop light which you might be able to get cheaper. Although I really like the look of the diamond plate over those shop lights. On this chart double the PAR for the white painted fixture because as charted it's only for 1 bulb lit not 2 as in the diamond plate fixture (makes the diamond plate fixture look much better until you realize you're comparing 2 bulbs vs single bulb). I still think the diamond plate should do much better than the white painted fixture because the reflector is so much better. But for some reason it doesn't appear that way on the chart.
As to how much light before needing pressurized CO2, I'll quote what Hoppy wrote:
I don't believe there is any consensus about the definition of low, medium and high light. But, here is my definiition, subject to, and almost certain to change:
Low light - 15-30 micromols of PAR - CO2 is not needed, but is helpful to the plants
Medium light - 35-50 micromols of PAR - CO2 may be needed to avoid too many nuisance algae problems
High light - more than 50 micromols of PAR - pressurized CO2 is essential to avoid major algae problems
I've got a weird setup or I'd provide more info on my results using the diamond plate fixture.
|01-24-2013 04:24 PM|
Okay, and another question, one that kinda went unanswered earlier but I've partially solved.
I looked over some of Hoppys work again and reviewed this:
What this tells me is that if it sat directly on the glass in a 21" tall tank I'd have over 60 PAR, and without CO2 I read elsewhere here I'd be inviting Algae problems. So my question is what PAR is optimal to minimize algae while still getting good low-tech plant growth? This will allow my to figure out how high I want to raise the light.
OR, is simply running a light less than the usual 10-12 hours a day an option, or will that stunt the plants?
|01-24-2013 04:10 PM|
Another quick question about this lighting.
I know that WPG is now obsolete, but 2-3 WPG was a rough guide for planted tanks as far as I could tell. Two of those bulbs would give me 64 watts to 55 gallons. What is it about the bulb/fixture that allows it to provide enough usable light to the plants?
|01-23-2013 04:18 AM|
Now I'm all set, all I need to do is pick this up! Oh, and buy the tank/stand, the filter, the substrate, the heater, the plants, and then the fish!
But seriously, it's nice to know that after I get the tank I can knock lighting out with a trip to the hardware store.
|01-23-2013 02:47 AM|
Those will work great. I actually liked the Philips better than the GE bulbs. The color was just better to my eye.
|01-22-2013 06:17 PM|
After seeing the awesome work down by sow and hoppy I can happily say I think I'll be able to do lighting at home depot for under $50, excellent!!!
Just want to make doubly sure quick though that these are the bulbs: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ec...1#.UP7WLx37Jc0
|01-22-2013 02:40 AM|
Thanks guys, you're giving me a lot to go on.
One of my big questions remains that if I get the diamond fixture from Home Depot (or any other light like it), will I be able to just set it on top of the tank or will I have to find some way to suspend it above?
sdylanh, I love the idea of LEDs and basically never having to worry about the thing again, so if I think I can pull something like that off it may very well be the ticket.
bridroid, that's great to hear, as that was my one major concern with that route as the tank will likely be in the bedroom.
BBradbury, are you suggesting the glass top would support something like the fixture we were discussing earlier? If so what's the best site you'd recommend for purchasing something like that? Also, what's the best place to purchase solarmax products if I go that route?
funkman, I had looked into Odyssea fixtures and had not seen many great reviews on their stuff so will likely shy away from them.
|01-22-2013 01:55 AM|
|funkman262||There are some Odyssea fixtures on ebay that are fairly inexpensive, although I've read that it may be necessary to swap out the bulbs right away.|
|01-22-2013 01:46 AM|
Get a glass canopy from one of the fish places online, they're inexpensive. Then, a strip from the local hardware store that holds two 48 inch bulbs. GE makes a good aquarium 6500K, plant bulb for about $10.00 a piece, at the same hardware store. I put together a similar set up for less than $100.00 a tank for a couple of 55 G tanks.
If you want to go a little techie and add LED lights, then check online for a company by the name of Solarmax. They have 48 inch strips for about $100.00, including shipping. A company by the name of alphaprobreeders is a distributor of some of this brand of lighting.
Just a couple of suggestions.
|01-22-2013 01:23 AM|
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