|01-20-2013 04:05 AM|
If you are religious about refilling your CO2 cylinder when the high pressure gauge begins to decrease (indicating that no more liquid CO2 remains in the cylinder and only gaseous CO2 is left), then you will not experience EOTD.
Alternatively, if you want to run your tank all the way down to zero, then a dual stage regulator will allow you to do so.
|01-20-2013 03:27 AM|
|BenderBendingRodriguez||So the consensus is that I should get a 2 stage?|
|01-19-2013 07:05 AM|
|01-19-2013 04:50 AM|
|01-19-2013 04:35 AM|
When I started out with co2 I bought 2 Micromatics regulators: it was 'cheap' for a brand new one, it was featured on one respected web site as the premium regulator for aquarium co2, I was afraid to buy something used, and it was shiny.
That purchase was a mistake, ~$140 down the drain. After 4 EOTDs, several middle-of-the-night emergency water changes, some dead fish, and countless hours trying to figure out what went wrong I finally replaced both with double-stages. Like every time I try to save $10 I waste a $100.
There are endless debates on 1-stage vs 2-stage, EOTDs, and so on and I don't want another one here, please. BUT this forum is where the information and expertise is - take your time, ask for help, and do it once and save yourself some headache and heartache later.
Given that you have already bought a regulator, do keep an eye on it and the fish once it starts to get empty until it earns your trust. I bet yours will work just fine for the next 40 years with 0 issues, but do prove it to yourself first.
|01-19-2013 01:13 AM|
Smith double stage is the cheapest in retail that I can find so far, other double stage welding regulators, such as Victor VTS, are much higher in price, and of course, other commonly seen chrome plated double stage or the stainless steel, $400-$1000+, in retail..
Difference in retail price means something.
|01-19-2013 01:09 AM|
a 60 psi LP gauge means around 45psi max output, 30-50psi output setting is close to the max, too much burden to the poppet valve spring inside, imo.
|01-19-2013 12:21 AM|
Check oldpunk's sticky in the Equipment forum about building a regulator. It has the answers to everything you need to know.
As to the pressure, the first reg you linked was a 40-175-320.
40 = Series 40 model
175 = Max output pressure in PSI
320 = CGA320 nipple and nut
Additionally, if you click on "larger image", you can see that the red inside numbers are in PSI. The highest number is 200. Even if you didn't know that this model was rated for 175psi, included gauges are always a bit higher than the maximum output pressure.
And I *still* would recommend an Evilbay used single dual stage over a new single stage due to cost.
|01-18-2013 10:37 PM|
If I ended up going with the first one you posted and wanted to connect it to a fabco nv 55 what parts would I need to go from reg to needle valve to tubing? I am having a hard time figuring out all the bits and pieces I need.
|01-17-2013 10:42 PM|
Just a note - the two regs you linked have 200 and 150 psi low pressure gauges. That will work, but more ideal would be a 60 or 100 gauge - you'll be able to be more precise when picking a working pressure. This will be especially useful when you reconnect the regulator after a cylinder refill and don't want to mess (much) with the needle valve.
Something like these:
I'd still recommend a used reg from Evilbay (a quality used dual stage can be had for less than any of the models you or I linked). As long as it's in working condition when you get it, a used industrial single or dual stage reg will almost definitely last as long as your interest in the hobby ...so long as you don't take a baseball bat to it, or something similar.
|01-17-2013 10:18 PM|
|oldpunk78||For whatever its worth, weld-fabulous probably is the cheapest place to get the same one gla uses. EBay generally is more. You could do more with your money if you do some research into finding a used. 2-stage. That's a whole other animal in itself though.|
|01-17-2013 08:09 PM|
On a 10lbs tank, the difference between running all the time vs on a timer, could mean the difference of having to refill the tank every three months as opposed to once a year. From that standpoint, I'm lazy and can't be bothered to get the tanks filled more often, so I'd opt for the timer.
Also, I would go with teflon tape over loctite only because it makes it way easier to redo something, like fixing leaks, or upgrading parts if using the tape.
|01-17-2013 06:53 PM|
|01-17-2013 06:47 PM|
I use one because it helps save gas.
You can install a solenoid at a later time if you wish. I'm not sure what you mean by permanently assemble the setup; as long as you are not using Loctite, parts can be disassembled easily (teflon tape or pipe compound).
|01-17-2013 05:38 PM|
this is the one I meant to link to.
I tend to agree with you Darkblade48, I would rather have the one that's overkill than one that will simply get the job done for less.
I have another question. So I plan to use pps pro when I get all of this CO2 stuff taken care of and when I read this Newbies guide to CO2http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/f...e-pps-pro.html from what I read am I to believe that since we're using such a low rate of co2 injection that it's not necessary to turn it off at night. Therefore my question is, would it be a terrible idea to not install a solenoid on my regulator unit? I could always install one later right, assuming I don't permanently assemble this thing?
I'm not too worried about wasting co2 at night since its such a low rate and I have a 10lb tank so it shouldn't be a problem.
Thanks for all help so far
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