|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|Today 03:42 AM|
|IUnknown||I have been having issues with my cerges reactor filling up with air, and worried that the flow rate has been reduced too much. Haven't read the whole thread, but does the DIY Griggs style reactor provide more flow? Why is air filling up?|
|04-11-2016 01:05 AM|
Originally Posted by plant_guru View Post
As micca stated above, look at post #770 - all the pics u need are there. Hopefully they stay there for the coming years to help other hobbyists.
I guess that's why these things should be made sickies - or does that not prevent the image source from disappearing I wonder.... [emoji848]
|04-10-2016 10:34 PM|
|plant_guru||None of the pics in the first post are working|
|04-10-2016 05:01 PM|
Originally Posted by Patriot View Post
|04-10-2016 04:05 PM|
Originally Posted by seandelevan View Post
|04-10-2016 04:03 PM|
|seandelevan||I ditched the Cerges reactor after 5 years because of lack of flow. It was pitiful. I needed two eheim 2015s at one point. The one connected to the cerges reactor was at best a weak trickle...the one without was full stream. Finally went with a DIY Griggs style reactor and it was good to go. Didn't need two filters taking up space anymore. I would do a cerges again if I had something like a fx5 or fx6 that had over the top flow.|
|04-03-2016 06:59 AM|
|Patriot||I would get the largest you could possibly fit. The bubbleight not have time to diffuse in such a small space.|
|04-03-2016 06:51 AM|
Would this size work if I want to build the reactor? I have a small 17 gallon and my stand is already crowded.
7-3/8 x 4-5/8 inches (187 x 118 mm)
|02-05-2016 01:04 PM|
Originally Posted by Patriot View Post
This is the canister I used: Glacier Bay Basic Household Water Filtration System-HDG2BS4 - The Home Depot
The inputs are 3/4", but the actual openings inside are much smaller, less than 1/2". I am wondering if I will get more flow if I replace the canister with a legit Pentek filter. I actually have a 20" 'Big Blue' that I was using for my house before I upgraded that system, so I would just need to swap it out, but it's so damned heavy when full that I don't think my stand can take the torque it would apply to one brace. I have a feeling, though, that it won't make too much of a difference.
|01-18-2016 11:35 PM|
This is the flow I get using a 20 inch housing with a Sunsun 404b "525" GPH.
Looking into upgrading to a Fx6.
|01-18-2016 09:06 PM|
I'm setting up a 46 bowfront and built one of these Cerges reactors. In my old 20 Long using a diffuser connected to the inlet of my HOB filter, it would take hours and very high bubble count before my drop checker would change to a light green color. Using the Cerges, should I expect the time for the drop checker to change color to be about the same or should it happen faster? How about co2 bubble count? In my previous HOB diffusion method, I know there was a lot of waste because I can see the bubbles going up to the surface inside my HOB. Seems like the cerges should be more efficient and much less wasted CO2?
Bump: btw, in case anyone is interested, I found and purchased this filter from amazon. It cost about the same as the lowes/homedepot one but it is clear
With this filter, I use a regular 1 inch pvc pipe cut down to length as the center pipe and it fits snug without glue
|12-24-2015 03:24 AM|
Originally Posted by m00se View Post
|12-23-2015 05:54 AM|
I *think* I used 1 1/4" ID white pvc on mine. I know I had to stick the end of it into a pan of boiling water to make it pliable and force it into the removable filter seating ring in the top of the cap. It took a few minutes, and a little horsing, but it made a nice snug fit without needing teflon tape or any glue nonsense in there. You do want to design it so that it can come apart in the event that you need to clean it. Like any new thing you'll probably redesign it at least once before you settle on your final setup. It was an easy project and the results are A+.
Like this: http://i.imgur.com/2H0Hp.jpg only it looks like he glued his in. I softened the pvc in boiling water (easy!) and "suggested" it into a narrower diameter carefully, and once I got the lip of the pipe even and re-heated it in the hot water 2-3 times I was able to drive it home and seat it. Then I just slowly rotated the pipe/cap like a toy top on a table to make sure it was plumb (adjusting with heat if necessary) and Bob's Your Uncle.
Protip: don't use CPVC because it will not get soft at all at 212F. Best advice is to bring the filter with you when you go to Lowes to make sure you get a slightly over-size piece of pipe.
|12-23-2015 04:19 AM|
Thanks m00se for the info I think I am going do the same.
One final question for anyone that has used a https://www.h2odistributors.com/ytb-20-cb34-pr housing unit what diameter of tubing should I use for the internal downspout?
|12-18-2015 05:53 AM|
I re-read what I wrote, and realized: I didn't mean to imply I haven't CLEANED the prefilter in over a year! That gets done with the regular WC's. So get the filter and at least 2 backup sponges so you can swap them out. They're cheap.
I used 1/2" white PVC w/glue to get the water to and from the tank, IE: diy all the way, including the intake pipe and spray bar return. I used Krylon Fusion matte black spray paint on the piping to tie it all in. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Krylon-12-...Black/17253596
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