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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-28-2015 04:48 PM
Joost So anything ranging from 15 to 20 watts would be fine? I'm aiming towards 20 watt bulbs due to the succes of this person : http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=316009

He was using 23 watt bulbs in IKEA fixtures.
02-28-2015 03:48 PM
burr740 That's good info to have. Thanks. I believe the common clamp-ons would qualify as polished, not "highly polished" where it looks like a mirror, but more shiny than matte.
02-28-2015 03:36 PM
mrbigshot if your talking a matte aluminium finish lish inside a clamp on shop light vs white paint (specifically matte finish than you would be incorrect). matte white paint would reflect more.
02-28-2015 03:19 PM
burr740
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joost View Post
Hi,

A friend of mine is interested in using two CFL bulbs above his aquarium. The aquarium holds 54 litres (60 cm length x 30 cm width x 30 cm height). Two IKEA TERTIAL desk lamps will be used to mount the CFL bulbs in a vertical position. The TERTIAL desk lamps have a diameter of +- 16 cm (6,3 inches) and are painted white. The height, from substrate to light source will be approximately 44 cm (17 inches). Pressurized CO2 will be used (up aqua inline atomizer), therefore we're aiming for 35 to 60 micromols/mē/s at the substrate.

According to the chart, when the distance between the substrate and the light source is approximately 17 inches and a 15 watt CFL bulb is used, the CFL will provide about 75 micromols/mē/s at the substrate. Is this correct? This means that even 15 watt CFL bulbs provide too much light.

If the above is correct, should he be using 13 watt, or even less?

I look forward to your response!
Hoppy can correct me if Im wrong, but I believe the chart uses aluminum reflectors. A white reflector, while still good, is going to offer less than aluminum. How much less? Im not really sure. There is also the diameter to consider, 6.5" vs 10.5".

Myself having used both 13, 18, and 23 watt bulbs in 8.5" aluminum domes, also ~17" from sub, with co2....I do not think 13 or 15 watt bulbs will be too much for you in those IKEA fixtures. I settled on 18 watts for the tank I mentioned, which is a standard 20H.
02-28-2015 11:55 AM
Joost Hi,

A friend of mine is interested in using two CFL bulbs above his aquarium. The aquarium holds 54 litres (60 cm length x 30 cm width x 30 cm height). Two IKEA TERTIAL desk lamps will be used to mount the CFL bulbs in a vertical position. The TERTIAL desk lamps have a diameter of +- 16 cm (6,3 inches) and are painted white. The height, from substrate to light source will be approximately 44 cm (17 inches). Pressurized CO2 will be used (up aqua inline atomizer), therefore we're aiming for 35 to 60 micromols/mē/s at the substrate.

According to the chart, when the distance between the substrate and the light source is approximately 17 inches and a 15 watt CFL bulb is used, the CFL will provide about 75 micromols/mē/s at the substrate. Is this correct? This means that even 15 watt CFL bulbs provide too much light.

If the above is correct, should he be using 13 watt, or even less?

I look forward to your response!
01-15-2015 12:05 AM
CowBoYReX @hoppy are you able to answer this?
01-14-2015 01:07 AM
RootedMind Lol, I understand the Kelvin part, really I'm just curious about my PAR readings. I appreciate you responding, though.

Only fools stop searching for knowledge.
01-14-2015 12:11 AM
mef1975
Quote:
Originally Posted by RootedMind View Post
I think maybe I should switch it to: 18, 23, 23, 18, BTW the 18's are 5500k and the 23's are 6500k, any thoughts?

Only fools stop searching for knowledge.
Now, I could totally be wrong, but I think I read somewhere that the K range you ask about is representative of what daylight might be at the Earth's equator, which I guess would be a good thing when it comes to visual light and color rendering, but I don't really know, at all. That K thing confuses me a bit. I think the higher frequency ones have more of a bluish tint, and perhaps, can even penetrate deeper waters better, but as I said, I'm really not sure about all this, I too am an algae grower. lol
01-13-2015 05:00 AM
RootedMind I think maybe I should switch it to: 18, 23, 23, 18, BTW the 18's are 5500k and the 23's are 6500k, any thoughts?

Only fools stop searching for knowledge.
01-13-2015 04:57 AM
RootedMind I'm seeing 70 for the 15w and 115 for the 23w. My tank is 0.55mē, so how would you figure it with 2 of each light in this order: 23, 18, 18, 23? At ~11" apart?
I really wish I had a PAR meter

Only fools stop searching for knowledge.
01-13-2015 04:26 AM
RootedMind That's what I was thinking, my lights are ~11" apart. Also, I believe I read that the smaller diameter of the cone the higher the concentration, so higher PAR

Only fools stop searching for knowledge.
01-13-2015 04:11 AM
mef1975
Quote:
Originally Posted by RootedMind View Post
What kind of PAR readings would you get with an 18w CFL and a 23w both in an 8.5 aluminum cone 18" from the substrate?

Only fools stop searching for knowledge.
Well, I'm pretty new at this, but from I can see in the charts at the beginning of this awesome thread, each light will likely give you something over 50 PAR, but under 100, although, that was a 10" cone, definitely appears to be enough light for CO2, right? Would the PARs be summed together? Maybe only if the lights are close together, would it surely be over 100 PAR?
01-13-2015 01:41 AM
RootedMind What kind of PAR readings would you get with an 18w CFL and a 23w both in an 8.5 aluminum cone 18" from the substrate?

Only fools stop searching for knowledge.
01-12-2015 11:39 PM
jeffkrol
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoppy View Post
With a lot of effort it should be possible to make a light meter that actually reads in PUR, but I have never seen one, nor have I heard of the existence of one.
I believe PUR is also considered species specific.. so really not worth contemplating much at our "level"... I can think of more reasons not to stress it than reasons to...
01-12-2015 10:27 PM
Hoppy PAR is the light intensity in the 400-700 nm spectral range. PUR is the same thing except adjusted to give more weight to the intensity in the ranges of the spectrum that correspond to that which specific plants use, and less to that in the ranges of the spectrum that specific plants use much less of. You can directly measure PAR, but you have to calculate PUR. So, PUR for a specific light fixture is not readily available, nor easily obtainable. With a lot of effort it should be possible to make a light meter that actually reads in PUR, but I have never seen one, nor have I heard of the existence of one.
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