|08-20-2013 04:10 PM|
|08-20-2013 03:12 PM|
Personally I would replace the safety valve with another new safety vavle. I think they come preset to pop at about 100psi or 150psi. Which serves a safety purpose. I would rather lose all my co2 in a tank, than have a ticking timebomb/rocket in my house.
|08-20-2013 02:45 PM|
Step one, find a welding shop or somewhere that does torch and regulator repair.
Step two, have them replace the relief valve or just have them remove it and plug the hole.
Step three, connect the reg and open and close the cylinder to charge the high pressure side of the regulator. Turn the pressure up to like 20 and open the needle valve all the way. Open the solenoid and watch the low pressure gauge. If it rises more that 1-2 psi as the gas in th3 reg runs out, the first stage is probably ruptured and you only have one good stage.
|08-20-2013 02:27 PM|
|hbosman||Are you sure that it isn't a broken diaphragm? If the diaphragm is broken, gas will shot out of that valve as well.|
|08-20-2013 02:07 PM|
|talontsiawd||Just a thought but it may be worth taking to a welding supply shop. I have never had a CO2 regulator problem but I have had problems with industrial equipment for other hobbies. I remember being so frustrated at something, finally taking it into a shop, only to be charged $5 to fix it. Just saying that it may be worth a shot.|
|08-20-2013 07:40 AM|
I have no reason to believe there's anything else wrong with this regulator. It's clean, well taken care of (although old), and it came from a reputable seller. It was clearly working before it was sent to me. I really hope it's a simple fix. It cost me a small fortune and I won't be able to replace it any time soon...
I didn't notice any abnormalities (rise in pressure, etc) before the safety valve released, so I guess the idea is that it just... failed, for whatever reason.
Right now I can either replace it with another valve, or plug it completely as bettatail suggested before. I'm not sure which option would be more safe, or what replacement valve I would replace it with.
Yes, it's glued - Victor glues them all in. I don't have the tools to get it off at home but I will try Home Depot or something next weekend.
By the gap, I mean I can see some kind of cracked/split material INSIDE the safety valve. Not sure what it means, if anything.
I just really, really want to get this fixed.
|08-20-2013 03:41 AM|
*puts on my thinking cap
How do we know the relief valve is the culprit here? If it is removed, do you have another one to test it with? If not, what other solutions could we try out.
That regulator is a forged construction type, sadly, I have only have a barstock without that extra relief valve to test with.
You said you see a little gap near the relief valve, can you try to take the valve off and put it back on tighter? If it is in fact glue on, you need a bench vise and Superman to take it off.
|08-19-2013 09:28 PM|
|tatersalad||don't put heat on it for sure, do like oldpunk78 said. take it off the tank and put it in a vise and get on it with a socket and ratchet.|
|08-19-2013 06:39 PM|
|oldpunk78||An impact driver would be the easiest way to remove the fitting in question. Next is a bench vise and a big socket wrench.|
|08-19-2013 04:23 PM|
I am bumping this thread again. I still did not get this fixed. I'm ready to now.
Few things I've observed.
There is a visible gap between some sort of materials in she small vent slit. I am not sure if this is normal, or if it means the relief valve is really toast. Which leads me to wonder why it failed in the first place?
The valve is glued in. Tight. I've tried to get it out but I have nothing to hold it and I can't get it out.
What valve exactly would I need to replace it? I don't really want to plug it in case there is something structurally wrong with the regulator. This whole thing kind of scares me to be honest lol.
And should i re-glue the new valve or cap? I don't think it's necessary but then again I don't want it to leak or fail again.
|01-10-2013 01:30 AM|
the relief valve is there for a reason, because it connects to the chamber that between the first and second diaphragm chambers of the regulator.
in the middle section, the pressure usually set around the max to double that output of the regulator, and guarded by the first poppet valve and the first diaphragm.
if the first diaphragm or the first poppet valve fail, the pressure will exceed the relief valve rating, gas escape and give warning.
Replace the relief valve with a plug, if the first poppet valve fail, it is still be ok because most the double stage regulator can handle the high pressure co2 at 800 psi with only one poppet valve working(second poppet valve).
If it is other high pressure gas(>1000ps), to seal the relief valve port with a plug is dangerous, first poppet valve fail and the second poppet valve can't handle high pressure alone.
If the second poppet valve fail, no matter first poppet valve good or not, the regulator is broken.
|01-09-2013 11:33 PM|
|Jaguar||I am back from my vacation now, waiting to get over this nasty cold before I can get the damn regulator fixed. I tried chilling the tank for a few minutes outside but it's still blowing out CO2 as soon as I open the tank. I will post an update when I get it fixed.|
|12-24-2012 08:14 PM|
I've always been told that to prevent leaks you open the tank valve all the way because there is a seal at each end, now that is for a propane tank on a gas BBQ grille but I don't see why a 5# would be any different. That's all I can say except I'm sorry you waited all this time and then had a problem straight away, please keep me informed.
|12-21-2012 09:15 PM|
I just wanted to clarify that.
|12-21-2012 07:45 PM|
|Jaguar||Hmm, I read a lot of conflicting info on whether to open the tank all the way or just one turn etc, I went with what the seller of the reg said in the printoff he gave me to open it all the way, maybe that's what did it? It's still happening when I barely let the tank open too..|
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