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Thread: Brass fittings - how loose/tight Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-09-2013 12:49 AM
watercage I got my setup running now and it seems OK.

I bought my regulator from Oldpunk, so it was fully tested already...

Put soapy suds at every joint, no leaks detected.
01-09-2013 12:25 AM
Bettatail it is easy to find the regular vinyl air hose, cut a short section and burn one end.

BTW, your Victor VTS250 is not a beast, it is small compare to darkblade's VTS 450, lol.

see if you can find a VTS200, it is small.
01-08-2013 09:24 PM
watercage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bettatail View Post
cut a short section of air hose(not the silicon air hose), burn one end and pinch, to make a sealed no flow section, then attach to bubble counter.

and click the link in my signature, second one.
What kind of air hose should I use?

Im currently using the stuff that came with the Red Sea co2 kit I have been using. It's black tubing, not sure what its made from, but it seems silicon-ish.

And you guys are right, my Victor is a beast. The tank wont even sit upright, its way top heavy
01-08-2013 08:34 PM
Darkblade48
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bettatail View Post
VTS 450 is really super duty, when the first time I hold this reg in my hand, I felt like it is a grenade, not the weight, the feel,
really like this reg, may be my next project? still have a spare one in storage, not that good looking though, need some ketchup bath.
I know what you mean. The VTS450 was a beast to hold, one of the largest regulators I worked with (I think it is bigger than the Matheson 8 series).

In a pinch, people that have dual stage regulators like these can use them to fend themselves from a burglar if they do not have a baseball bat.
01-08-2013 08:03 PM
Bettatail cut a short section of air hose(not the silicon air hose), burn one end and pinch, to make a sealed no flow section, then attach to bubble counter.

and click the link in my signature, second one.
01-08-2013 02:45 PM
watercage Thanks guys, I was not aware that the amount of tape is a factor in the situation.

I went around with tape about 3 times on each fitting.

The pics I posted, the bottle was leaning against the wall, so it appears a bit skewed.

None of the connections are loose where I can unscrew it by hand. They're tight enough were I can go about another 1/2 turn before it starts to really get tight, but wouldnt feel comfortable going for the other 1/2 turn.

Whats the best way to leak test these? Soapy water - but I'd have to take off that bubble counter and put a plug on that elbow coming off the Parker valve, then turn on the gas and open the solenoid?
01-08-2013 11:30 AM
Bettatail [QUOTE=Darkblade48;2179521]

VTS 450 is really super duty, when the first time I hold this reg in my hand, I felt like it is a grenade, not the weight, the feel,
really like this reg, may be my next project? still have a spare one in storage, not that good looking though, need some ketchup bath.
01-08-2013 11:22 AM
Bettatail
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingHellFish View Post


.
any full shot? The tank on the left
01-08-2013 10:55 AM
Darkblade48
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingHellFish View Post
^ I guess you don't use tape? Or just tape for the bubble counter? I'm trying to avoid the whole tape thing but that all I got.
I use tape.

Quote:
Originally Posted by creekbottom View Post
All those connections won't seal airtight if you don't use tape, IMO. Or use something... dope or whatever. Brass on brass is going to leak.
+1. Either use tape or dope. You will need to use one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bettatail View Post
neither crank or loose, just apply proper amount of teflon tape.
+1. This is where the "experience" comes into play
01-08-2013 10:44 AM
Bettatail
Quote:
Originally Posted by watercage View Post

What should I do? Crank to to the next rotation or leave it on the looser side?
Crank is ok, but need high quality fittings and heavy duty tools, don't crank too much on stainless steel fittings, if there is not enough teflon tape or threadlocker sealant, too much force and metal to metal contact will cause galvanize action and lock the stainless steel fittings .


a little bit looser is ok too, but you need to apply the threadlocker sealant.

neither crank or loose, just apply proper amount of teflon tape.

01-08-2013 10:14 AM
creekbottom All those connections won't seal airtight if you don't use tape, IMO. Or use something... dope or whatever. Brass on brass is going to leak.
01-08-2013 09:17 AM
FlyingHellFish ^ I guess you don't use tape? Or just tape for the bubble counter? I'm trying to avoid the whole tape thing but that all I got.
01-08-2013 09:10 AM
Darkblade48 Brass connections should be tight, but not too tight (you risk over-torquing the piece and stripping threads, etc).

If they are loose, you will risk leaks.

As for trying to get everything aligned, the amount of teflon tape used is a factor, but more importantly, experience. You'll eventually get a feel for how much tape/where you can stop tightening the fittings to get them perfectly aligned.

Here's something I built recently...
01-08-2013 08:14 AM
FlyingHellFish Looks like victor been drinking a little bit. Have you try setting up the post body before you add it to the regulator? You can always try using less teflon tape.

I had a similar problem, I went from connecting the whole thing just randomly.

To actually setting it up where a few turns will have it the way I wanted.


I'm guessing as long as you don't have leaks, it doesn't have to be completely tight. How loose do you think the connections are? Can you unscrew it by hand? If it's that loose, then maybe less tape?

I'm going to have to build a rig myself soon, this baby going aching to be set up.



In conclusion, I have no idea.
01-08-2013 06:26 AM
watercage Here you go:

I will be replacing that union that connects the bubble counter with a check valve tomorrow. That's not even tight.

I have to keep that metering valve on a slight angle because it hits the regulator handle when you turn it on/off.




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